Buzz Rickson MA-1 Tailored Cut, Original Spec.
Buzz Rickson brand gained fame from making the finest copies of the legendary USAF MA-1 Flying Jacket, beginning in 1994, and it was the obsessive perfection of this MA-1 that provided the impetus for acclaimed novelist William Gibson to make the Buzz Rickson MA-1 , albeit in incorrect black, a co-character in his groundbreaking novel "Pattern Recognition." The serendipitous creation of a 10th anniversary black MA-1 from Buzz Rickson's coincided with the debut of "Pattern Recognition," and the success of the first black MA-1 for Buzz Rickson's gave way to the William Gibson Collection in 2007, and since then the black, Tailored-Cut MA-1 (available on this website) has become a top seller around the world. Due to customer requests, we now bring you a similar Tailored-Cut MA-1 from the Buzz Rickson William Gibson Collection, but in the original USAF sage green with corresponding sage green lining, just as it was in the original spec. from the 1950's, but without the USAF decal on the shoulder sleeve.
Buzz Rickson brand takes other extraordinary steps to recreate this classic jacket style in the exact, same manner of original production. The nylon twill used in the lining of the original garments is a lighter type from that used on the exterior (because the USAF reasoned that the lining would be subject to less wear and tear), and indeed Buzz Rickson has recreated both weights of nylon twill for their reproduction, but supreme, museum-grade authenticity does not stop there. The original nylon twill, being produced in large runs by various manufacturers, would also reflect slight color shifts in each dye lot produced - nothing outlandish, mind you, but noticeable enough when you hold one roll of fabric against another from a different dye lot or different manufacturer. To counter this unavoidable color deviation, the USAF specs. stipulated that a jacket had to me made from fabric that was entirely from the same dye lot, except for small pieces of the jacket such as the interior pocket welting. Astute observers of the original garments are aware of this detail, and so are the jacket masters at Buzz Rickson, thus Buzz Rickson brand goes the extraordinary extra mile and expense and has two purposely different shades of nylon twill produced (albeit subtly different shades), so that the interior pocket welting does indeed appear to be subtly different in shade from the rest of the jacket lining, exactly duplicating a normal result of true, mass production in a reproduction garment that has nothing in common with mass production and is crafted in small batches with love.
This Tailored-Cut MA-1 is offered for those who prefer something slimmer and less bulky than the original MA-1 Flying Jacket design, whereby the armhole has been raised higher, the sleeves further tapered, and the body slimmed down vs. the full cut of the original MA-1 Flying Jacket design. Other than the tailored fit, this MA-1 Flying Jacket is replete with all of the authenticity found in a vintage example of the late 1950's and which Buzz Rickson's is world renowned for making.
Please note the following features and details found on this Buzz Rickson masterpiece:
• Copy of original maker’s label design produced on a vintage shuttle loom, not a modern projectile loom.
• Custom manufacturing of the correct weight and weave sage green nylon outer shell and inner lining using vintage looms and precisely matching 1957 USAF specs. and treated to repel water.
• Modified tailored fit with higher armholes, narrowed shoulders, tailored body and tapered sleeves.
• Correct USAF-spec. inner lining of warm wool fiber filling sandwiched between the outer and inner shell lining.
•Two snap-down exterior pockets lined with warm 80/20 wool-rayon fabric precisely matching 1957 USAF specs.
•Two snap-down interior pockets lined with heavy 100% cotton-twill fabric precisely matching 1957 USAF specs.
• Exact copy of the heavy-duty 1953 Crown zippers on sleeve pocket and jacket front, with zip tape made of 100% cotton HBT fabric, not incorrect poly-cotton.
• Leather pull tab designed for easy functioning with gloves
• Heavy wind flap protector located behind zipper closure.
• Correct, USAF-spec. leather pull tab on sleeve pocket
• Custom manufacturing of the correct, two-ply, 100% worsted-wool knit collar, cuffs and waist skirt in sage green
• Heavy, parachute-harness nylon in sage green correctly sewn to left front chest for attaching oxygen mask retainer clip.
• Two snap-down tabs (one on each breast) for retaining headset and microphone wiring leads, exactly as on original 1957 MA-1's.
• Zippered pocket on left sleeve outfitted with four pen/pencil slots and two anti-puncture pencil caps made of USAF-spec. brass.
• Assembly using vintage sewing machines
Even sizes 34-44 Regular or 34 - 44. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Buzz Rickson goods are imported from Japan
Buzz Rickson MA-1 Tailored Cut, Original Spec.
SIZING TIPS
About this Style: This jacket style has been made more tailored in how it fits vs. the original full-cut style 1957 MA-1 Jackets offered by Buzz Rickson’s: The body/chest cavity has been reduced in circumference, the armholes have been raised higher, shoulders narrowed, and the sleeves are more tapered.
It is important to keep in mind that this jacket style is heavily padded between its two nylon layers with wool batting, thus the external chest measures listed here are just that – EXTERNAL measures – and don’t account for the lesser amount of room on the inside of the jacket. Likewise, if you plan to wear heavy layers under this jacket style, that application will further subtract from the room inside the jacket. However, if you follow the Sizing Tips, the MA-1 can be a very easy-wearing style that creates very few sizing issues for the overwhelming majority of individuals.
When comparing the sizes in this jacket style to other Buzz Rickson jacket styles sized numerically, the size range would approximately equate as follows:
Small/36 Medium/38 Large/40 XL/42 XXL/44
Tip 1: Follow the instructions entitled “How to Use Product Measures to Obtain a Good Fit” listed under the PRODUCT MEASUREMENTS tab for this product. After finding no substantive conflicts with your body measures obtained from the tab entitled BODY MEASURING, order this garment with 5" - 6" of external room in excess of your chest measure if you prefer a trim fit in the chest and shoulders. Even those with lean builds should not order this jacket with less than 5" - 6” of room in the chest so as to allow for the high-cut armholes and heavy wool batting. If a roomier or longer fit is desired, then order the next available size after reviewing all relative measures that pertain to that size. It is best advised for most customers to order a size that directly equates to their chest measure: Chest measures 40”, order size Lg. Those whose chest measure falls on an odd number, such as 41” or 43”, will have to determine if they want less room or more room when selecting a jacket size.
Tip 2: Please note that your chest circumference measure is not necessarily the labeled size you wear in another jacket you may own from a different maker or even the same maker, so please take the time to obtain your true chest circumference measure so as to compare to our chart of jacket measures; this will enable us to perform a better job getting you the right size and minimize your chances in having to deal with the hassle and cost of exchanges.
Please ask us for fitting advice if in doubt.
Tip 3: This style lends itself best to lean and medium-build individuals; those with a hefty build, especially in the mid-section, may find this style too restrictive and confining. Individuals who prefer looser fits and/or those with a waist measure that is nearly equal to or greater than their chest circumference measure may jump up one – two sizes in this jacket for comfort and desired fit (when we refer to waist measure we do not mean your trouser size; we mean the actual circumference measure of your waistline at its widest point). If you are unsure of the size to order we will assist you; please contact us with the following information: Height, waist circumference measure, chest circumference measure, body weight, and type of clothing to be worn beneath the jacket most of the time, as well as the type of fit you prefer: Trim, roomy or oversized.
Buzz Rickson MA-1 Tailored Cut, Original Spec.
PRODUCT MEASUREMENTS
The following table provides actual product measures. These measures are provided as an aid because, in conjunction with the information found under the SIZING TIPS tab for each product, they can sometimes be very useful when comparing the measurements from this garment to the measures of your body; however, acting as an armchair tailor should be done with caution, as well as with knowledge of other important areas of fit that are not displayed here. Armchair tailors frequently fail to take into account other significant elements that impact fit; following the information found under the SIZING TIPS tab for each garment on this web site is strongly suggested, which can be very useful in supplanting or supplementing the listed measures below.
Our measures were derived from averaging measurements taken from many garments of the same size from each specific size in the range of any given product, thus the measures provided are representative for each size but they may not be exactly what you will receive. Some fluctuation in size is normal and to be expected, especially in these garments that have been manufactured on the bench by hand. Size fluctuations are rarely encountered in the width measures and more typically encountered in length measures, and particularly with respect to leather jackets and jackets with knit cuffs and waistbands. Fluctuations in width measures are very rare, and when they are encountered they are typically insignificant: 1/8” – ¼”. Normal fluctuations in sleeve and/or body length + /- a ½” are more common but still rare, and such fluctuations in that increment range are within spec. for jackets of the same size and style.
This MA-1 Jacket is available in either a Regular-Length fitting or a Long-Body fitting (only the body length increases versus the Regular-Length fitting).
| Size | Sm | Med | Lg | XL | XXL |
| Chest width | 21" | 22" | 23" | 24" | 25" |
| Shoulder width | 16" | 17" | 18" | 19" | 20" |
| Arm length | 25" | 25" | 26" | 26" | 27" |
| Back length | 24" | 25" | 26" | 26" | 27" |
How to Use the Product Measures to Obtain a Good Fit:
1) Using the measurements listed for this product and information found under the tab entitled MEASURING GARMENTS to understand our measuring technique, please double the chest measure to obtain the total external chest circumference of this garment. For example: If the chest measure listed for size 40 is 23”, doubling this measure yields a 46” external chest circumference.
2) Measure your chest circumference as per the tab on this web site specifically addressing BODY MEASURING, then compare your chest measure to the chest measure of this product.
3) Many jackets are cut in such a way that the wearer requires no less than 4” of room in the jacket for a sleek fit that is also comfortable, while other jacket styles require the wearer to have more than 8” of room. If your chest circumference is 40”, a product with a 23” chest width has a 46” external chest circumference and would provide 6” of external room in this scenario (chest measures 40”, external chest measure of jacket is 46”, thus 6” of external room would be realized).
4) Again, using the measurements listed for this product and information under the MEASURING GARMENTS tab to understand our measuring technique, add half of the shoulder width to the arm length. For example: If the shoulder width is 18” and the arm length is 25”, adding 9” (half the shoulder width) to 25” (the arm length) will yield an overall sleeve length of 34” in this product.
5) Measure your overall sleeve length following the instructions on this web site under the tab specifically addressing BODY MEASURING, then compare your overall sleeve length to this product.
6) If desired, repeat the measuring comparisons for back length.
7) Compare your body measures to the listed garment measures and follow the advice found under the SIZING TIPS tab to obtain a good fit.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Because you need room in a garment for comfort, garments with a 44” chest circumference are NOT a size 44, nor are they intended for anyone with a 44” chest circumference. Tee shirts and thermal shirts tend to have the most body-hugging fits of our product offerings because these were originally intended to be undergarments, thus these can be ordered to stretch to fit if that is how you wish to wear such garments. Other shirts, sweatshirts, sweaters, jackets, etc. will all have some amount of room incorporated in their designs, thus these will all measure larger than your actual chest measure by varying degrees.
Sometimes-Problematic Way to Determine a Good Fit:
Due to differences in how even near-identical garments are cut by different manufacturers, it is not necessarily a good idea to compare the listed measures of this product to the measures of an existing, similar product in your wardrobe to determine the correct size to order in this product. Though such comparisons can indeed work some of the time, and maybe even most of the time, vast experience with and knowledge of the products we market has proven such practices will sometimes fail. This inaccurate measuring methodology doesn't factor in other key variables of fit relative to you and the garment that includes: Armhole opening, shoulder slope, high-point shoulder, high chest, width of sleeves at all points including the all-important elbow, waist measure, and the thickness, plumpness, and rigidity of the material the garment is made from, naming just some variables influencing fit that do not appear on any list of measurements for a garment or that a customer is likely to account for.
It is best to compare your actual body measures to the listed measures of this product AND follow our advice listed under the SIZING TIPS tab specific to this product to obtain a good fit in this style.
A Good Fit:
This is highly subjective - what one person may think is too big, another may think fits perfectly. Some garments are cut quite generously and others are cut quite trimly. If comparing measurements of one of our products to another you may own, some individuals will surely find that none or maybe only one area of measure is commonly shared or remotely close to being the same. Ultimately, chest measure is the most important area to properly fit, then all other areas of measure will have to fall into place. And some individuals who are extremely tall may find that body and/or sleeve length are more important to accommodate than even chest measure.
It is best to compare your actual body measures to the listed measures of this product AND follow our advice listed under the SIZING TIPS tab specific to this product to obtain a good fit in this style.
We strive to create a crisp fit between our products and the customer, and not a loose, sloppy look. If you prefer your clothing to fit more loosely, then we will do our best to work with you to that end, though, by the very nature of our product designs and fits it may not be possible to duplicate the slack looks found in many mainstream clothing brands even if you go up one or two sizes in our products.
