Buzz Rickson G-1 Flying Jacket, U. S. Navy 55-J-14 , A. Pritzker & Sons, Inc.
Buzz Rickson's brand is world renowned for producing truly standout copies of the famous G-1 Flying Jacket, but this new example elevates their reputation to levels so spectacular, we are left fully bereft of adequate words to describe it.
This offering is a meticulous copy of a G-1 Flying Jacket produced under the first G-1 Flying Jacket spec. from 1947 (spec. 55-J-14), duplicating the typical jackets produced by A. Pritzker & Sons, Inc., a civilian contractor to the U. S. Navy. No detail has been overlooked by Buzz Rickson's brand, which means every component part of the jacket had to be custom made to match buttons, zippers, and fabrics that no longer exist in the same form as was found in the late 1940's; however, it is the fit, taken directly from vintage U. S. Navy specs., and the sumptuous, Merino sheepskin collar and grade-one goatskin that, along with this jacket's many other parts, combine to make this nothing less than wearable history recreated.
The goatskin is positively striking in every way. The leather weight comes in at a robust 3-ounces per square foot and is fully vegetable tanned, rich with heavy grain, and dyed only on the surface with full-pigment dyes. The leather is not at all stiff or overly heavy, but it is plump and firm, and fully unlike the heavily processed, chrome-tanned goatskin so commonly found in mainstream jackets. Surface dying is how the original 55-J-14's were dyed, which means this Buzz Rickson's G-1 will age and distress just as we see on those cherished vintage jackets, with all the character of an old navy salt. And we cannot say enough good about the look of this leather: the coloring of the dye used and its attendant finish are simply the most like a new-condition, vintage 55-J-14 as any we have ever seen! Other copies of the 55-J-14 G-1 Jackets, even from top manufacturers, typically can be much too dark in color, too shiny, or too matte in appearance, and the shade of brown is just never right where it needs to be - until NOW! Even the top aficionados of the 55-J-14 G-1 Flying Jackets will be duly impressed with what Buzz Rickson brand has achieved with this goatskin leather.
Beyond the industry-leading leather quality and character, beyond the clone-like color and finish type, and beyond the supreme comfort and flattery of the genuine U. S. Navy fit, is the mind-blowing rayon lining and fur collar. Buzz Rickson's brand has always had their heavyweight rayon acetate lining custom made to match Navy-spec. rayon fabric in weight, appearance, and hand, but because the coloring of the lining of a 55-J-14 made by A. Pritzker & Sons is so unique among other contractors of the 55-J-14's, the lining on this example is especially noteworthy - the color, weave, and weight just hit you as something only seen on a vintage example - it both looks and feels just as a 55-J-14 made by A. Pritzker & Sons in the late 1940's did!
Merino sheepskin is something Buzz Rickson has tweaked to perfection for at least the last 4 years. Somewhere, the Buzz Rickson brand has located a tannery that seems to generate Merino sheepskin as if it had been genetically engineered to match the mind's fantasy of ideals: The sheepskin used on the collars of these G-1 jackets is nothing short of mouth-watering, sumptuous, mega-plush, half-inch genuine Merino sheepskin that is just not of this Earth!
Final touches that take this G-1 Flying Jacket into the heavens include the reproduction of a blackened-metal, late-1940's Conmar zipper, genuine urea buttons (never incorrect, cheap plastic), and a copy of the A. Pritzker & Sons, Inc. label woven on vintage shuttle looms. The sum of all the many parts is an heirloom, clone-like jacket that fits like a dream, and which can be handed down to the next generation - there's nothing disposable about a Buzz Rickson's leather jacket and it only gets better with use and age!
This Buzz Rickson G-1 55-J-14 is a masterpiece of wearable jacket art, crafted in rugged materials that are as beautiful as they are durable. Please note the following materials and features:
- Copy of the original A. Pritzker & Sons, Inc., woven label produced on a vintage shuttle loom, not modern projectile looms
- Custom manufacturing of the correct weight and weave rayon acetate lining dyed to match the purple-like brown shade associated with 55-J-14's made by A. Pritzker & Sons
- Custom manufacturing of the correct two-ply, Navy-spec., worsted-wool cuffs with the narrow weave graduating into the wider weave at top, dyed medium brown to match what is commonly seen on 55-J-14's made by A. Pritzker & Sons
- Custom manufacturing of the correct single-ply, bi-directional, Navy-spec., worsted-wool waistband, dyed medium brown to match what is commonly seen on 55-J-14's made by A. Pritzker & Sons
- Two button-down exterior pockets lined with all-cotton twill precisely matching 1940's USN specs
- One snap-down interior pocket lined with heavy-weight, all-cotton duck twill precisely matching 1940's USN specs
- Exact copy of the vintage-style, blackened-metal Conmar Conmatic zipper on jacket front, with zip tape made of 100% cotton HBT fabric, not incorrect poly-cotton
- Leather pull tab on zipper for easy functioning with gloves
- Heavy wind flap protector located behind zipper closure
- Bi-swing action back and gusseted armpits (with metal air ventilators) for greater range of motion without restriction
- Gorgeous, plush, genuine-Merino sheepskin collar with backing leather correctly reinforced with trapunto stitching to maintain collar shape and help keep collar up when the need arises. The "USN" stencil is correctly applied in off-white paint to the collar back in a font style precisely matching that found on 55-J-14's manufactured by A. Pritzker & Sons.
- Sumptuous, vegetable-tanned, 3-ounce, heavy-grained goatskin that is not overly stiff or heavy, maintaining the true feel of the original jackets. The dye coating is sprayed on, just as it should be for a 55-J-14 G-1, and it precisely matches the correct shade of brown and finish found on 55-J-14's once made by A. Pritzker & Sons; the result is a leather that will distress and age over time from use and wear to yield a vintage look that is on par with anything made in the 1940's-'50's
- Genuine urea buttons, not incorrect, cheap plastic
- Assembly using vintage sewing machines
Even sizes 36-44 Regular. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Buzz Rickson goods are imported from Japan
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Buzz Rickson MA-1 Tailored Cut, Original Spec.
Buzz Rickson brand gained fame from making the finest copies of the legendary USAF MA-1 Flying Jacket, beginning in 1994, and it was the obsessive perfection of this MA-1 that provided the impetus for acclaimed novelist William Gibson to make the Buzz Rickson MA-1 , albeit in incorrect black, a co-character in his groundbreaking novel "Pattern Recognition." The serendipitous creation of a 10th anniversary black MA-1 from Buzz Rickson's coincided with the debut of "Pattern Recognition," and the success of the first black MA-1 for Buzz Rickson's gave way to the William Gibson Collection in 2007, and since then the black, Tailored-Cut MA-1 (available on this website) has become a top seller around the world. Due to customer requests, we now bring you a similar Tailored-Cut MA-1 from the Buzz Rickson William Gibson Collection, but in the original USAF sage green with corresponding sage green lining, just as it was in the original spec. from the 1950's, but without the USAF decal on the shoulder sleeve.
Buzz Rickson brand takes other extraordinary steps to recreate this classic jacket style in the exact, same manner of original production. The nylon twill used in the lining of the original garments is a lighter type from that used on the exterior (because the USAF reasoned that the lining would be subject to less wear and tear), and indeed Buzz Rickson has recreated both weights of nylon twill for their reproduction, but supreme, museum-grade authenticity does not stop there. The original nylon twill, being produced in large runs by various manufacturers, would also reflect slight color shifts in each dye lot produced - nothing outlandish, mind you, but noticeable enough when you hold one roll of fabric against another from a different dye lot or different manufacturer. To counter this unavoidable color deviation, the USAF specs. stipulated that a jacket had to me made from fabric that was entirely from the same dye lot, except for small pieces of the jacket such as the interior pocket welting. Astute observers of the original garments are aware of this detail, and so are the jacket masters at Buzz Rickson, thus Buzz Rickson brand goes the extraordinary extra mile and expense and has two purposely different shades of nylon twill produced (albeit subtly different shades), so that the interior pocket welting does indeed appear to be subtly different in shade from the rest of the jacket lining, exactly duplicating a normal result of true, mass production in a reproduction garment that has nothing in common with mass production and is crafted in small batches with love.
This Tailored-Cut MA-1 is offered for those who prefer something slimmer and less bulky than the original MA-1 Flying Jacket design, whereby the armhole has been raised higher, the sleeves further tapered, and the body slimmed down vs. the full cut of the original MA-1 Flying Jacket design. Other than the tailored fit, this MA-1 Flying Jacket is replete with all of the authenticity found in a vintage example of the late 1950's and which Buzz Rickson's is world renowned for making.
Please note the following features and details found on this Buzz Rickson masterpiece:
• Copy of original maker’s label design produced on a vintage shuttle loom, not a modern projectile loom.
• Custom manufacturing of the correct weight and weave sage green nylon outer shell and inner lining using vintage looms and precisely matching 1957 USAF specs. and treated to repel water.
• Modified tailored fit with higher armholes, narrowed shoulders, tailored body and tapered sleeves.
• Correct USAF-spec. inner lining of warm wool fiber filling sandwiched between the outer and inner shell lining.
•Two snap-down exterior pockets lined with warm 80/20 wool-rayon fabric precisely matching 1957 USAF specs.
•Two snap-down interior pockets lined with heavy 100% cotton-twill fabric precisely matching 1957 USAF specs.
• Exact copy of the heavy-duty 1953 Crown zippers on sleeve pocket and jacket front, with zip tape made of 100% cotton HBT fabric, not incorrect poly-cotton.
• Leather pull tab designed for easy functioning with gloves
• Heavy wind flap protector located behind zipper closure.
• Correct, USAF-spec. leather pull tab on sleeve pocket
• Custom manufacturing of the correct, two-ply, 100% worsted-wool knit collar, cuffs and waist skirt in sage green
• Heavy, parachute-harness nylon in sage green correctly sewn to left front chest for attaching oxygen mask retainer clip.
• Two snap-down tabs (one on each breast) for retaining headset and microphone wiring leads, exactly as on original 1957 MA-1's.
• Zippered pocket on left sleeve outfitted with four pen/pencil slots and two anti-puncture pencil caps made of USAF-spec. brass.
• Assembly using vintage sewing machines
Even sizes 34-44 Regular or 34 - 44. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Buzz Rickson goods are imported from Japan
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Buzz Rickson Sweatpants, Langley Air Force Base – Now in Extra-Large!
Eschew the soccer-mom look and grab something that actually fits well and is made of high-quality fabric meant to hold up over years of wear and laundering!
Buzz Rickson's premium, vintage-style, all-cotton athletic sweatpants are made from medium-weight, 100% cotton fabricated on 1920's-vintage loop-wheeling machines, styled with all the correct features found on the old sweatpants and cut to hug the body in a flattering form without bulk, just as the vintage originals did. Limited quantities available. Take note of these authentic vintage styling features:
- Custom manufacturing of the medium-weight, all-cotton fleece fabricated on vintage loop-wheeling looms
- Vintage wash
- USAF Langley Air Force Base logo silk screened to the left upper thigh in a muted, non-plastisol ink to duplicate the look and feel of vintage ink types
- One side-entry pocket per leg
- Heavy-weight, all-cotton draw ties at each cuff opening and waist
- Exact copy of the original-style rayon-on-cotton labels
- True vintage fit for flattering appearance, not a sloppy, relaxed fit with saggy rear and baggy legs
A note on loop-wheeling looms:
Loop-wheeling looms are special machines that were once common decades ago and able to weave even rows of small loops of yarn on the inner fabric side rather than the typical fleece we see on contemporary sweatshirt and pant interiors that have much more of a solid, flat appearance. These old looms also can only weave one set diameter per loom; this means the factory needs a different loom for each size - very expensive - which is why you hardly ever see true tube construction in modern-day garments. Tube construction ensures true shape is maintained, not only during its construction, but during its life of wear. This is the proper way to make a sweatshirt; in the good old days, the proper way was the only way. It's cheap and easy to make shirts from a flat piece of cloth and most customers would never notice the difference, though they may wonder why their not-so-cheap sweatshirt seemed to lose its shape after only a few washes - but now you know.
Sizes: Small, Medium, Large, & XL. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Imported from Japan
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Buzz Rickson U. S. Navy AN-6552 WWII Flying Jacket, American Sportswear Co.
Buzz Rickson's brand is world renowned for producing truly standout copies of the famous USN intermediate flying jackets, commonly, albeit erroneously, all lumped together as G-1 Flying Jackets. Before the first G-1 Flying Jacket designation (Spec. 55-J-14) of 1947, these intermediate flying jackets made of leather began as spec. M-422; following the USN M-422A Intermediate (goatskin) Flying Jacket, the AN-6552 Intermediate Flying Jacket was the next in succession in late 1942. Developed as a jacket for both the USAAF and USN, hence the "AN" designation (Army/Navy), the back of the collar was not stenciled with "U. S. N." as found on the M-422/M-422A, but with "U. S." This new AN-6552 Flying Jacket we are introducing elevates the Buzz Rickson reputation with this jacket type to levels so spectacular, we are left fully bereft of adequate words to describe it.
This offering is a meticulous copy of an AN-6552 Flying Jacket produced in 1944, duplicating the typical jackets produced by the rare contractor, American Sportswear Co. No detail has been overlooked by Buzz Rickson's brand, which means every component part of the jacket had to be custom made to match buttons, zippers, and fabrics that no longer exist in the same form as was found in the war years; however, it is the fit, taken directly from vintage U. S. Navy specs., and the sumptuous Merino sheepskin collar and grade-one goatskin that, along with this jacket's many other parts, combine to make this nothing less than wearable history recreated.
The goatskin is positively striking in every way. The leather weight comes in at a robust 3-ounces per square foot and is fully vegetable tanned, rich with heavy grain, and dyed only on the surface with full-pigment dyes. The leather is not at all stiff or overly heavy, but it is plump and firm, and fully unlike the heavily processed, chrome-tanned goatskin so commonly found in mainstream jackets. Surface dying is how the original AN-6552's were dyed, which means this Buzz Rickson's AN-6552 will age and distress just as we see on those cherished vintage jackets, with all the character of an old navy salt. And we cannot say enough good about the look of this leather: the coloring of the dye used and its attendant finish are simply the most like a new-condition, vintage AN-6552 as any we have ever seen!
The AN-6552's of American Sportswear Co. were produced in a chestnut shade of dark brown; other copies of the these jackets typically can be much too dark in color, too shiny, or too matte in appearance, and the shade of brown is just never right where it needs to be - until NOW! Even the top aficionados of the AN-6552 Flying Jackets will be duly impressed with what Buzz Rickson brand has achieved with this goatskin leather.
Beyond the industry-leading leather quality and character, beyond the clone-like color and finish type, and beyond the supreme comfort and flattery of the genuine U. S. Navy fit, is the mind-blowing rayon lining and fur collar. Buzz Rickson's brand has always had their heavyweight rayon acetate lining custom made to match Navy-spec. rayon fabric in weight, appearance, and hand, but because the coloring of the lining of a AN-6552 made by American Sportswear Co. is very much a salmon-like shade of pale, muted red-brown and very unique among contractors of the AN-6552's, the lining on this example is especially noteworthy - the color, weave, and weight just hit you as something only seen on a vintage example - it both looks and feels just as an AN-6552 produced by American Sportswear Co. did in 1944!
Merino sheepskin is something Buzz Rickson has tweaked to perfection for at least the last 4 years. Somewhere, the Buzz Rickson brand has located a tannery that seems to generate Merino sheepskin as if it had been genetically engineered to match the mind's fantasy of ideals: The sheepskin used on the collars of these AN-6552 Flying Jackets is nothing short of mouth-watering, sumptuous, mega-plush, half-inch, genuine Merino sheepskin that is just not of this Earth!
Final touches that take this AN-6552 Flying Jacket into the heavens include the reproduction of a blackened-metal, late-1940's Conmar zipper, genuine urea buttons (never incorrect, cheap plastic), and a precise copy of the American Sportswear Co. label woven on vintage shuttle looms. The sum of all the many parts is an heirloom, clone-like jacket that fits like a dream, and which can be handed down to the next generation - there's nothing disposable about a Buzz Rickson's leather jacket and it only gets better with use and age!
This Buzz Rickson G-1 55-J-14 is a masterpiece of wearable jacket art, crafted in rugged materials that are as beautiful as they are durable. Please note the following materials and features:
- Copy of the original American Sportswear Co. woven label produced on a vintage shuttle loom, not modern projectile looms
- Custom manufacturing of the correct weight and weave of rayon acetate lining dyed to match the salmon-like shade of pale, muted red-brown associated with AN-6552's made by American Sportswear Co.
- Custom manufacturing of the correct two-ply, Navy-spec., worsted-wool cuffs with the narrow weave graduating into the wider weave at top, dyed chestnut brown to match what is commonly seen on AN-6552's made by American Sportswear Co.
- Custom manufacturing of the correct single-ply, bi-directional, Navy-spec., worsted-wool waistband, dyed medium brown to match what is commonly seen on AN-6552's made by American Sportswear Co.
- Two button-down exterior pockets lined with all-cotton twill precisely matching 1940's USN specs
- One snap-down interior pocket lined with heavy-weight, all-cotton duck twill precisely matching 1940's USN specs
- Exact copy of the vintage-style, blackened-metal Conmar Conmatic zipper on jacket front, with zip tape made of 100% cotton HBT fabric, not incorrect poly-cotton
- Leather pull tab on zipper for easy functioning with gloves
- Heavy wind flap protector located behind zipper closure
- Bi-swing action back and gusseted armpits (with metal air ventilators) for greater range of motion without restriction
- Gorgeous, plush, genuine-Merino sheepskin collar with backing leather correctly reinforced with trapunto stitching to maintain collar shape and help keep collar up when the need arises. The "US" stencil is correctly applied in yellow paint to the collar back in a font style precisely matching that found on AN-6552's manufactured by American Sportswear Co.
- Sumptuous, vegetable-tanned, 3-ounce, heavy-grained goatskin that is not overly stiff or heavy, maintaining the true feel of the original jackets. The dye coating is sprayed on, just as it should be for an AN-6552, and it precisely matches the correct shade of chestnut brown and finish found on AN-6552's once made by American Sportswear Co.; the result is a leather that will distress and age over time from use and wear to yield a vintage look that is on par with anything made in the 1940's-'50's
- Genuine urea buttons, not incorrect, cheap plastic
- Assembly using vintage sewing machines
Even sizes 36-44 Regular. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Buzz Rickson goods are imported from Japan
Click for Information and Photos
Buzz Rickson USAF 1958 L-2B Flying Jacket, Skyline Clothing, Corp.
The L-2B Flight Jacket was an all-time favorite, renowned for comfort, light weight, and amazing warmth-to-weight ratio, and all of this remains true with this masterpiece copy.
The USAF L-2B Flight Jacket was developed as a direct replacement for the blue L-2A Flight Jacket. L-2A Flight Jackets were produced in blue circa 1950 as part of an effort by the then-new USAF service branch to stand apart from the old USAAF and its association with the U. S. Army. This blue color proved unsatisfactory in combat conditions during the Korean War, where a downed airman needed a combat uniform color that would help conceal him from any nearby enemies, and the new USAF blue, unfortunately, only made downed aviators better targets and more easily found. The result of this combat experience in the first two years of the Korean War resulted in the development of a new color that did better conceal downed airmen and, by mid-1952, the first of the combat flying clothing began to appear in this new color known as sage green. The early sage green tended to have a distinctly more silver-grey cast to it than the later sage green shade employed in the 1960s, which is one distinguishing characteristic of the earlier L-2B Flight Jackets.
The L-2B Flight Jacket was intended for wear in climates between 42 degrees and 65 degrees Fahrenheit, thus ideally suited for spring, summer and fall. The essential differences between the L-2A Flight Jacket and L-2B Flight Jacket are: Color changed from blue to sage green, size on labels changed from numerical (38, 40, 42, etc.) to textual increments (small, medium, large, etc.), the cut was made more generous and the outer nylon shell was changed from 1/3 twill to the heavier 2/2 twill, while the lining was changed from a wool-and-nylon blend to a wool-and-rayon blend. The L-2B Flight Jacket had a long service life, with later versions that featured the orange linings that were first introduced in 1964 still being found in service use into the late 1970s. This Buzz Rickson’s L-2B Flight Jacket is manufactured in the earlier silver-grey sage green and is a precise copy of an original example produced by the esteemed government contractor Skyline Clothing, Corp., circa 1958, being the 4th L-2B Flight Jacket variant (Spec. 7448C) in the evolution of the L-2B Flight Jacket series.
Buzz Rickson has reproduced the L-2B Flight Jacket (Spec. 7448C) in exacting detail. Buzz Rickson’s heavy-weight nylon twill fabric is never to be confused with the cheap, flimsy flight satin used by lesser manufacturers to produce so-called vintage reproduction USAF flight jackets. In fact, the only other flight jackets in the world today made from this nylon are those vintage examples of the USAF! Please take note of these authentic features:
• Exact copy of the original maker’s label produced on a vintage shuttle loom
• Custom manufacturing of the correct 2/2 weave and weight in silver-grey color USAF Sage Green nylon twill outer shell to precisely match 1950's USAF specs., and treated to repel water
• Custom manufacturing of the correct 65% rayon 35% wool double-faced inner lining in silver-grey sage green, reflecting early L-2B manufacture
• Exact copy of the super-desirable, spring-loaded 1950's Crown zippers on sleeve pocket and jacket front, with zip tape made of all-cotton HBT fabric in a beautifully contrasting tannish color, not incorrect poly-cotton. The leather zip pulls have been sewn in a circular pattern, exactly matching the stitch style found on L-2B Flying Jackets once produced by Skyline Clothing, Corp.
• Correct USAF-spec. leather pull tabs on zippers
• Custom manufacturing of the correct two-ply 100% worsted-wool knit collar, cuffs and waist skirt in the USAF Sage Green
• Heavy, parachute harness nylon in USAF Sage Green correctly sewn to left front chest for attaching oxygen mask retainer clip
• Snap-down pocket flaps and shoulder straps crafted to match the style found on L-2B Flying Jackets made by Skyline Clothing, Corp.
• USAF insignia transfer on left sleeve and under maker label in lining
• Zippered pocket on left sleeve outfitted with four pen/pencil slots and two anti-puncture pencil caps made of USAF-spec. brass
Sizes: XS – XXXL. The fit is generous. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Crown is a registered trademark in the USA of History Preservation Associates.
Buzz Rickson’s goods are imported from Japan
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Buzz Rickson USAF 1st-Model MA-1 Flying Jacket, Albert Turner Co.
The MA-1 Flight Jacket’s lightweight construction, comfortable non-bulky warmth and natural good looks made this style an instant success with jet jockeys at bases around the world, as well as anyone who could beg, borrow or steal one of these coveted gems. It was intended for wear in climates between 25 degrees and 55 degrees Fahrenheit, thus ideally suited for early spring, late fall and winter. The MA-1 Flight Jacket would see combat life during the Cold War and Vietnam War, as well as in fashion life that, in many forms and colors, continues to this day. MA-1 Flight Jackets produced for the USAF in the 1960's declined in quality and warmth from those of the 1950's, and featured a reversible orange lining. But those early MA-1 Flight Jackets that were made from a silver-gray shade of sage green in heavy-weight nylon twill, warmly lined with woolen fiber filling sandwiched between the outer nylon shell and the sage green inner nylon lining were, and likely will remain, the nylon flight jacket of greatest desire by both aviators and collectors. Although the orange-lined MA-1 Flight Jacket was superseded by the newer Nomex jackets in the 1980's, it was not uncommon to find an old veteran still wearing an MA-1 Flight Jacket for some years afterwards.
The popularity of MA-1 Flight Jacket series produced one of the longest continued service careers of any flight jacket in the history of the USAF. Buzz Rickson has reproduced this first-model MA-1 Flight Jacket in exacting detail. Buzz Rickson’s heavy nylon twill fabric is never to be confused with the cheap, flimsy flight satin used by lesser manufacturers to produce so-called vintage reproduction USAF flight jackets. Buzz Rickson brand takes other extraordinary steps to recreate this classic jacket style in the exact, same manner of original production:
The nylon twill used in the lining of the original garments is a lighter type from that used on the exterior (because the USAF reasoned that the lining would be subject to less wear and tear), and indeed Buzz Rickson has recreated both weights of nylon twill for their reproduction, but supreme, museum-grade authenticity does not stop there. The original nylon twill, being produced in large runs by various manufacturers, would also reflect slight color shifts in each dye lot produced - nothing outlandish, mind you, but noticeable enough when you hold one roll of fabric against another from a different dye lot or different manufacturer. To counter this unavoidable color deviation, the USAF specs. stipulated that a jacket had to me made from fabric that was entirely from the same dye lot, except for small pieces of the jacket such as the interior pocket welting. Astute observers of the original garments are aware of this detail, and so are the jacket masters at Buzz Rickson, thus Buzz Rickson brand goes the extraordinary extra mile and expense and has two purposely different shades of nylon twill produced (albeit subtly different shades), so that the interior pocket welting does indeed appear to be subtly different in shade from the rest of the jacket lining, exactly duplicating a normal result of true, mass production, but in a reproduction garment that has nothing in common with mass production and is crafted in small batches with love.
The only other flying jackets in the world today made to this level of authenticity are those vintage examples of the USAF! This Buzz Rickson’s MA-1 Flight Jacket correctly captures all the nuances found on MA-1 Flight Jackets once produced by the Albert Turner Company, making this product virtually indistinguishable from an original vintage example of the USAF. Take note of these authentic features:
- Copy of original maker’s label design produced on a vintage shuttle loom, nota modern, projectile loom.
- Custom manufacturing of the correct weight and weave nylon outer shell and inner lining to precisely match the originalUSAF specs. and treated to repel water.
- Correct USAF-spec. inner lining of warm wool fiber filling sandwiched between the outer and inner shell lining.
- Two snap-down exterior pockets lined with warm 80/20 wool-rayon fabric precisely matching 1950's USAF specs.
- Two snap-down interior pockets lined with heavy all-cotton twill fabric precisely matching 1950's USAF specs.
- Exact copy of the heavy-duty 1953 Crown zippers on sleeve pocket and jacket front, with zip tape made of all-cotton HBT fabric that is rolled and glued at the base, not incorrect poly-cotton that is heat sealed with plastics at the base.
- Leather zipper pull tab as found on Albert Turner MA-1's, designed for easy functioning with gloves.
- Heavy wind flap protector located behind zipper closure.
- Correct USAF-spec. leather pull tab on sleeve pocket.
- Custom manufacturing of the correct, two-ply, 100% worsted-wool knit collar, cuffs and waist skirt in sage green.
- Heavy-weight parachute harness nylon in sage green, correctly sewn to left front chest for attaching oxygen mask retainer clip.
- Two snap-down tabs (one on each breast) for retaining headset and microphone wiring leads, exactly as on original 1950's MA-1's.
- USAF insignia transfer on left sleeve and under maker label in lining, exactly as found on early MA-1's.
- Zippered pocket on left sleeve outfitted with four pen/pencil slots and two anti-puncture pencil caps made of USAF-spec. brass.
Sizes: XS – XXXL. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Buzz Rickson’s goods are imported from Japan
Click for Information and Photos
Buzz Rickson William Gibson G-1 Flying Jacket, Black
Buzz Rickson's brand is renowned for producing truly standout copies of the legendary G-1 Flying Jacket, and they really went over the top on this gem! This limited-edition style combines the original features of the U. S. Navy G-1 Intermediate Flying Jacket (spec. 7823 from 1950) with styling from Buzz Rickson’s William Gibson Collection. The original standards of quality and material types have been strictly adhered to by Buzz Rickson’s, but with a distinct slant toward supreme luxury and durability, and, of course, you have William Gibson’s personal approval of each item in the collection.
G-1 jackets of the 1950's were originally produced in one of the strongest, most desirable leather types - goatskin - which was keenly sought after and which cost more than hides such as horse or steer. The designers at Buzz Rickson's wanted to match the heavy grain and durability found in vintage goatskin when planning this jacket, and so they sourced some amazing goatskin. This sumptuous goatskin is sourced from India, where a preeminent tannery selects only the best-of-the-best hides, all 3 ounces in weight, and fully vegetable tanned for a firm-yet-supple hand, then fully aniline dyed jet black for a luxurious, character-rich finish.
Beyond the industry-leading leather quality and character and beyond the supreme comfort and flattery of the genuine U. S. Navy fit, is the mind-blowing rayon lining and fur collar. Buzz Rickson's brand has always had their heavyweight rayon acetate lining custom made to match Navy-spec. rayon fabric in weight, appearance, and hand, but the lining on this example is especially noteworthy - the color, weave, and weight just hit you as something only seen on a vintage example - it both looks and feels just as a vintage G-1 did and does from the 1950's! Assembly follows original specs. using all-cotton thread, and vintage looms are used to create the incredible, heavyweight rayon-twill lining.
Merino sheepskin is something Buzz Rickson has tweaked to perfection for at least the last 5 years. Somewhere, the Buzz Rickson brand has located a tannery that seems to generate Merino sheepskin as if it had been genetically engineered to match the mind's fantasy of ideals: The sheepskin used on the collars of these G-1 jackets is nothing short of mouth-watering, sumptuous, mega-plush, half-inch genuine Merino sheepskin that is just not of this Earth!
The sum of all of this is an heirloom jacket that can be handed down to the next generation - there's nothing disposable about a Buzz Rickson's leather jacket! This Buzz Rickson William Gibson G-1 is a masterpiece of wearable jacket art crafted in rugged materials that are as beautiful as they are durable. Please note the following materials and features:
- Copy of original maker’s label design produced on a vintage shuttle loom, not a modern projectile loom
- Custom manufacturing of the correct weight and weave rayon acetate lining dyed the original shade of a purple-like brown
- Custom manufacturing of the correct two-ply, worsted-wool cuffs with the narrow weave graduating into the wider weave at top, dyed jet black
- Custom manufacturing of the correct single-ply, bi-directional, worsted-wool waistband, dyed jet black
- Two button-down exterior pockets lined with all-cotton twill precisely matching 1950 USN specs.
- One snap-down interior pocket lined with heavy-weight, all-cotton duck twill precisely matching 1950 USN specs.
- All buttons are genuine urea, not incorrect, cheap plastic
- Exact copy of the vintage-style, blackened-metal Conmar Conmatic zipper on jacket front, with zip tape made of 100% cotton HBT fabric that is rolled and glued at the base, not made of incorrect poly-cotton that is heat sealed at the base with plastics
- Leather pull tab on zipper for easy functioning with gloves
- Heavy wind flap protector located behind zipper closure
- Bi-swing action back and gusseted armpits (with metal air ventilators) for greater range of motion without restriction
- Gorgeous, plush, genuine mouton-fur collar dyed jet black, with backing leather correctly reinforced with trapunto stitching to maintain collar shape and help keep collar up when the need arises
- Sumptuous, vegetable-tanned, 3-ounce, heavy-grained goatskin that is not overly stiff or heavy, maintaining the true feel of the original jackets. The black dye coating is sprayed on, just as it should be for a 55-J-14 G-1; the result is a leather that will distress and age over time from use and wear to yield a vintage look that is on par with anything made in the 1940's-'50's
- Assembly using vintage sewing machines
Even sizes 36-44 Regular. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Buzz Rickson goods are imported from Japan
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Eastman R.A.F. Aircrew Jacket, EARLY PATTERN “Fly Weight”
This is our favorite sheepskin jacket from Eastman Leather Clothing and we cannot say enough good about it. If you want a timeless classic for winter that can be worn anywhere at any age, and which will only look better from years of hard use, this is that intangible purchase that defies adequate description and which can just be simply said to be, upon the first try-on in front of the mirror - "Worth every penny!"
Originally designed in the early 1930's by parachute pioneer Leslie Leroy Irvin, this RAF sheepskin flight jacket was the only type issued to RAF aircrews, evolving through numerous spec. changes throughout its production life before being withdrawn from production in 1944. Though contracted to many firms to produce, including the Irvin Parachute Co., the original designer's last name has always identified this flight jacket. After 1941, the critical material shortages and expenses placed on England compelled its army, air and naval ministries to modify many items of gear and clothing in an effort to stay in the war as cheaply and efficiently as possible. The RAF Aircrew Jacket faced such modifications, causing the flight jacket to increasingly be manufactured from more and more separate panels of sheepskin (yielding more visible seams) to get more use from leftover pelts that would otherwise be thrown out if the pre-1941 design were adhered to. Over the course of the war years, the jacket continued to gain more panel splices and saw ever-increasing use of lower-grade sheepskin, making the earlier flight jackets quite desirable, even back at that time. Other notable differences among these jackets is the sheepskin used in construction.
There are dozens of different breeds of sheep, and the difference between the characteristics and nature of them is wide: they can range from soft and silky to tough and coarse, and from long and hair-like to short and nubbly. Additionally, the coloring of the wool found on the original jackets can vary from tan, champagne, ginger, brown, and even black. It can also be observed from original examples of RAF jackets, that some were made from a noticeably softer outer skin with slightly lower-depth wool. These were largely made from a Merino-type breed of sheepskin, and this skin is well known for its softness and high-quality texture, which is the version recreated here called The Fly Weight.
There were several manufacturers who produced RAF sheepskin flying jackets for the Air Ministry, and during the pre-war years they would often reveal their name and location on the garment label; it was only in later years into the war that the names and places were absent, as they learned this could lead to the producer becoming a target of the enemy due to it being a producer of war materiel.
This Fly-Weight model emulates the early style of RAF jacket commonly produced in the late 1930's, being made from a Merino skin that has been custom made to Eastman's exacting specifications to accurately recreate the appearance, feel, and texture of the originals, along with a classic commercial-style neck label that was typical of the 1930's. Additionally, this outer skin has been specially produced to have a ‘crazed’, vintage-like appearance, and a fleece that has that typical nubbly texture that can been seen on original examples of this type. Other authentic details include:
- Lighter-shade sheep-wool color
- Aniline-dyed, vegetable-tanned leather for the seam trimming and one-piece pull-through zip thongs
- Specially selected hides tanned & dyed to match the jackets made in the early years, including a "crazed" vintage-like finish and soft pliability with a lower-depth wool (0.5") than is found on our other RAF jacket styles
- Leather pull tabs on zips
- Authentic zippers custom made to early Air Ministry design specs. including the slider box cup (a feature found only on these and original examples)
- All-cotton elasticized strap behind collar for quickly fastening this up
- Hand-sewn linen spec. label in typical 1930's "commercial" layout
One of the most impressive aspects of this product is not just it’s uncanny authenticity, but that it’s the most easy-wearing, soft, comfortable sheepskin flying jacket we offer - you will not want to take off - it's as if you're on Cloud Nine in The Fly Weight!
Sizes available: 36-48 regular. Long and extra-long fittings available at no additional cost on custom order only. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Made in England
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Sun Surf Special-Edition Hawaiian Shirt Celebration Red
This is a Sun Surf Special-Edition Hawaiian shirt, the design of which deftly copies an original example produced in 1950 under the Polynesian Sportswear brand. Original examples of this shirt are extremely rare, and the colors must be seen in person to be appreciated fully: This is the boldest, most detailed, most colorful offering we have - and in red - a very rare color!
Special Editions are manufactured to degrees of authenticity that soar beyond the standard editions, fabulous as the standard editions are; each Special Edition is precisely recreated to match the vintage example it copies using yarns and dyes specifically reproduced to match just this one shirt style to utmost precision, and the rayon is screen printed using a filament discharge, just as the original examples of this print once were.
Special Editions incorporate colors and color shades not found on the standard editions, thus providing for more precise color matching to the vintage shirt being copied. Other original features include: one deftly matched invisible pocket, genuine coconut-shell buttons that precisely match those found on the original shirt, and a label that precisely copies the original label found on this shirt. And to enhance the collectibility of this shirt, it comes in its own presentation/storage box. Once produced, the special edition is retired from production, thus ensuring each is extremely limited in quantity made.
Sun Surf Special Editions are nearly impossible to obtain outside of Japan and we are proud beyond words to have been able to obtain a few of this shirt print that stands out as one of the most unique ever offered.
To help preserve the fabric and colors, dry cleaning is the only laundering method endorsed by the manufacturer.
Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Imported from Japan
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