USAAF B-15 Flying Jacket, Rough Wear 6338 AF
The U. S. Army Air Force Type B-15 Intermediate Flight Jacket was developed from lessons learned in field use of the highly popular B-10 Flight Jacket of 1943. As early as 1942, the Materiel Division of the US Army Air Forces was seeking an alternative material to sheepskin for producing flying suits, and by October of that same year development had begun at Wright Field on the Intermediate Flying Jacket, Type B-10. Originally constructed of an outer shell made from a fine, cotton twill, and lined with an alpaca-and-wool pile lining, the B-10 Flight Jacket was standardized on July 22,1943, though it was superseded less than 9 months later by the B-15 Flight Jacket. Both the B-10 and B-15 Flight Jackets were designed as replacements for the sheepskin flight jackets of the 1930s and early 1940s, and represented the first cloth-shelled, alpaca fur-lined flight jackets of the USAAF. These flight jackets were an instant success with just about every aviator who encountered one, being much lighter and more versatile than the flight jackets they replaced. Intended for wear in climates between 25 degrees and 55 degrees Fahrenheit, the B-15 Flight Jacket was ideally suited for early spring and late fall and winter.
In May 1942, Hirsch-Werner, Inc. contacted the Army Air Corps offering a new, specially developed cloth they called “End-Zone Twill,” which had previously been utilized in the manufacture of football pants because of its extreme durability and strength. When the B-15 was introduced, End-Zone Twill was used as trim on major stress and heavy-wear areas of the lining, though the Rough Wear Clothing Co., along with a few other manufacturers, received contracts for some of their entire production of B-15s Flight Jackets to be made completely of End-Zone Twill.
End-Zone Twill is manufactured with 100% cotton in the warp (the fibers than run in a longitudinal direction) and 100% rayon in the weft (the fibers that run in a latitudinal direction), giving the fabric a unique appearance of being shiny on one side and dull on the other. The density of the weave makes this fabric particularly strong; with 140 yarns per inch, this is an extremely dense cloth that feels both polished and hard on the surface, while wearing magnificently.
After endless negotiations and sampling from many textile manufacturers, we have finally struck gold and are now able to offer the definitive reproduction of the B-15 Intermediate Flight Jacket. This offering is a fabulous reproduction of the Rough Wear B-15 - contract 6338AF - made from the famous End-Zone Twill. We are confident the serious flight jacket enthusiasts are going to love this B-15; you have the opportunity to acquire the finest B-15 produced since the end of WWII.
Eastman Leather has reproduced the B-15 Flight Jacket in exacting detail. Eastman's heavy, End-Zone twill fabric is never to be confused with the cheap, flimsy fabrics used by lesser manufacturers to produce so-called vintage reproduction USAAF flying jackets. In fact, the only other flying jackets in the world today made from this fabric are those original vintage examples of the USAAF! This B-15 Flying Jacket correctly captures all the nuances found on original vintage B-15 Flight Jackets, making this product virtually indistinguishable from an original vintage example of the USAAF. Take note of these authentic features:
• Copy of original maker’s label design produced on a vintage shuttle loom
• Custom manufacturing of the correct weight and weave Olive Drab End-Zone Twill outer shell to precisely match original specs., and treated to repel water
• Correct USAAF spec. inner lining of warm alpaca-and-wool blend
• Gorgeous, plush, genuine mouton-fur collar with fur-padded button tab closure dyed to 1944 USAAF specs. of rich, deep-toned brown
• Two snap-down exterior pockets lined with warm off-white shade corduroy precisely matching 1944 USAAF specs.
• Two snap-down interior pockets lined with heavy all-cotton drill fabric precisely matching 1944 USAAF specs.
• Authentic copy of a Conmar-style zipper on jacket front, with cool-looking, contrasting tan-colored zip tape made of all-cotton HBT fabric, not incorrect poly-cotton
• Correct USAAF spec. leather pull tabs on zipper
• Custom manufacturing of the correct, all-wool knit cuffs and waist skirt in Olive Drab
• USAAF insignia transfer on left sleeve and wind flap behind zipper
Sizes: 36-48 Regular. Size 50, long and extra-long fittings available on custom order at no extra charge. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Imported from England
USAAF B-15 Flying Jacket, Rough Wear 6338 AF
SIZING TIPS
About this Style: It is important to keep in mind that this jacket style does have an alpaca lining, thus the external chest measures listed here are just that – EXTERNAL measures – and don’t account for the slightly lesser amount of room on the inside of the jacket. Likewise, if you plan to wear heavy layers under this jacket style, that application will further subtract from the room inside the jacket. However, the B-15 is a very easy-wearing style that creates very few sizing issues for the overwhelming majority of individuals. About 70% of our customers prefer a B-15 to fit 6” larger than their chest measure, while the remaining 30% prefer to have a fit 8” or more larger than their chest measure.
Tip 1: Follow the instructions entitled “How to Use Product Measures to Obtain a Good Fit” listed under the PRODUCT MEASUREMENTS tab for this product. After finding no substantive conflicts with your body measures obtained from the tab entitled BODY MEASURING, order this garment with no less than 6”of room in excess of your chest measure if you prefer a trim fit throughout, thus if you have a 40” chest circumference measure, order size 40. It is best advised for the vast majority of customers to order a size that directly equates to their chest measure: Chest measures 40”, order size 40. That size selection will maintain the 6” of room between the jacket and the wearer. If a roomier or longer fit is desired, then order the next available size after reviewing all relative measures that pertain to that size. Those whose chest measure falls on an odd number, such as 41” or 43”, will have to determine if they want less room or more room when selecting a jacket size.
Tip 2: Please note that your chest circumference measure is not necessarily the labeled size you wear in another jacket you may own from a different maker or even the same maker, so please take the time to obtain your true chest circumference measure so as to compare to our chart of jacket measures; this will enable us to perform a better job getting you the right size and minimize your chances in having to deal with the hassle and cost of exchanges.
Please ask us for fitting advice if in doubt.
Tip 3: Individuals who prefer looser fits and/or those with a waist measure that is nearly equal to or greater than their chest circumference measure may jump up one size in this jacket for comfort and desired fit (when we refer to waist measure we do not mean your trouser size; we mean the actual circumference measure of your waistline at its widest point). If you are unsure of the size to order we will assist you; please contact us with the following information: Height, waist circumference measure, chest circumference measure, body weight, and type of clothing to be worn beneath the jacket most of the time, as well as the type of fit you prefer: Trim, roomy or oversized.
USAAF B-15 Flying Jacket, Rough Wear 6338 AF
PRODUCT MEASUREMENTS
The following table provides actual product measures. These measures are provided as an aid because, in conjunction with the information found under the SIZING TIPS tab for each product, they can sometimes be very useful when comparing the measurements from this garment to the measures of your body; however, acting as an armchair tailor should be done with caution, as well as with knowledge of other important areas of fit that are not displayed here. Armchair tailors frequently fail to take into account other significant elements that impact fit; following the information found under the SIZING TIPS tab for each garment on this web site is strongly suggested, which can be very useful in supplanting or supplementing the listed measures below.
Our measures were derived from averaging measurements taken from many garments of the same size from each specific size in the range of any given product, thus the measures provided are representative for each size but they may not be exactly what you will receive. Some fluctuation in size is normal and to be expected, especially in these garments that have been manufactured on the bench by hand. Size fluctuations are rarely encountered in the width measures and more typically encountered in length measures, and particularly with respect to leather jackets and jackets with knit cuffs and waistbands. Fluctuations in width measures are very rare, and when they are encountered they are typically insignificant: 1/8” – ¼”. Normal fluctuations in sleeve and/or body length + /- a ½” are more common but still rare, and such fluctuations in that increment range are within spec. for jackets of the same size and style.
Long and Extra Long fittings are available upon custom order and aren’t returnable unless faulty. A Long fitting adds 1” to both the arm and body lengths listed in the measures provided, while an Extra-Long fitting adds 1 ½” to both of these areas of measure. Delivery times are greatly extended for custom orders. Please contact us to place an order for a Long or Extra-Long fitting.
Size 50 available upon custom order.
Size | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 |
Chest width | 21" | 22" | 23" | 24" | 25" | 26" | 27" |
Shoulder width | 17.5" | 18" | 19" | 19.5" | 20" | 20.5" | 21" |
Arm length | 24" | 24.5" | 25" | 25.5" | 26" | 26.5" | 27" |
Back length | 24" | 24.5" | 25" | 25.5" | 26" | 26.5" | 27" |
How to Use the Product Measures to Obtain a Good Fit:
1) Using the measurements listed for this product and information found under the tab entitled MEASURING GARMENTS to understand our measuring technique, please double the chest measure to obtain the total external chest circumference of this garment. For example: If the chest measure listed for size 40 is 23”, doubling this measure yields a 46” external chest circumference.
2) Measure your chest circumference as per the tab on this web site specifically addressing BODY MEASURING, then compare your chest measure to the chest measure of this product.
3) Many jackets are cut in such a way that the wearer requires no less than 3” of room in the jacket for a sleek fit that is also comfortable, while other jacket styles require the wearer to have more than 6” of room. If your chest circumference is 40”, a product with a 23” chest width has a 46” external chest circumference and would provide 6” of external room in this scenario (chest measures 40”, external chest measure of jacket is 46”, thus 6” of external room would be realized).
4) Again, using the measurements listed for this product and information under the MEASURING GARMENTS tab to understand our measuring technique, add half of the shoulder width to the arm length. For example: If the shoulder width is 19” and the arm length is 25”, adding 9.5” (half the shoulder width) to 25” (the arm length) will yield an overall sleeve length of 34.5” in this product.
5) Measure your overall sleeve length following the instructions on this web site under the tab specifically addressing BODY MEASURING, then compare your overall sleeve length to this product.
6) If desired, repeat the measuring comparisons for back length.
7) Compare your body measures to the listed garment measures and follow the advice found under the SIZING TIPS tab to obtain a good fit.
IMPORTANT: Because you need room in a garment for comfort, garments with a 44” chest circumference are NOT a size 44, nor are they intended for anyone with a 44” chest circumference. Tee shirts and thermal shirts tend to have the most body-hugging fits of our product offerings because these were originally intended to be undergarments, thus these can be ordered to stretch to fit if that is how you wish to wear such garments. Other shirts, sweatshirts, sweaters, jackets, etc. will all have some amount of room incorporated in their designs, thus these will all measure larger than your actual chest measure by varying degrees.
Sometimes-Problematic Way to Determine a Good Fit:
Due to differences in how even near-identical garments are cut by different manufacturers, it is not necessarily a good idea to compare the listed measures of this product to the measures of an existing, similar product in your wardrobe to determine the correct size to order in this product. Though such comparisons can indeed work some of the time, and maybe even most of the time, vast experience with and knowledge of the products we market has proven such practices will sometimes fail. This inaccurate measuring methodology doesn't factor in other key variables of fit relative to you and the garment that includes: Armhole opening, shoulder slope, high-point shoulder, high chest, width of sleeves at all points including the all-important elbow, waist measure, and the thickness, plumpness, and rigidity of the material the garment is made from, naming just some variables influencing fit that do not appear on any list of measurements for a garment or that a customer is likely to account for.
It is best to compare your actual body measures to the listed measures of this product AND follow our advice listed under the SIZING TIPS tab specific to this product to obtain a good fit in this style.
A Good Fit:
This is highly subjective - what one person may think is too big, another may think fits perfectly. Some garments are cut quite generously and others are cut quite trimly. If comparing measurements of one of our products to another you may own, some individuals will surely find that none or maybe only one area of measure is commonly shared or remotely close to being the same. Ultimately, chest measure is the most important area to properly fit, then all other areas of measure will have to fall into place. And some individuals who are extremely tall may find that body and/or sleeve length are more important to accommodate than even chest measure.
It is best to compare your actual body measures to the listed measures of this product AND follow our advice listed under the SIZING TIPS tab specific to this product to obtain a good fit in this style.
Please understand that no jacket can be two jackets in one (you may have to make a compromise in fit somewhere). The best look is achieved wearing a shirt and undershirt, or a medium-weight sweater with undershirt; the goal being a trim, sleek look. If the application of our jackets is with multiple layers of clothing, then the original look will be compromised; when purchased oversized, please keep in mind that the jacket will fit NOT trimly but LOOSELY when fewer clothes are worn.
As a rule here, if the jacket squares up nicely on the shoulders when worn with the sort of clothing you will wear most of the time, falls about 1 1/2" below the top of your trousers (if a waist-length jacket), allows you to reach into trouser pockets and recover keys, wallet and change without discomfort or pain, as well as allow normal strides while walking, then this is very likely a good fit and how the jacket would have been worn when originally issued.
Using the good-fit test where one draws their arms across their chest as a barometer for snugness will almost certainly produce some binding in an A-2 jacket of the correct size, and thus push you further up the sizing scale into a very large A-2 jacket. A true 1940s A-2 jacket has no bi-swing action back (as found on the USN M-422A or G-1 jackets, USAAF B-6, Tanker jacket, etc.) and is not cut for such a great range of movement as experienced when doing the arm-crossing act. If you can get that sort of movement range without binding in one of our A-2s, then it will surely be rather loose and sloppy when you aren't drawing your arms across your chest in front of you.
What makes more sense, having a jacket that looks great and feels fine during 90% of your activities, or only when you cross your arms in front of you? Do you walk around with your arms crossed in front of you? The choice is yours and we will gladly oblige all tastes, but do try to get the look originally intended.