USAC A-2 Flying Jacket, Werber Leather Coat Co. 1729
Our Original-Maker A-2 Flight Jackets are, by far, the most popular A-2 Flight Jackets we offer, with each passing year yielding hundreds of requests to produce more “original-maker” A-2 Flight Jackets. This Werber Leather Coat Co. A-2 Flight Jacket is another addition to our Original-Maker collection.
The first task is always to obtain original examples in order to make a thorough examination of the construction and detailing; since any A-2 from this contract is over 80 years old, and considering they were made only in hundreds (as opposed to thousands, as with the later wartime contracts), being able to obtain original examples that have all of their original components intact is next to impossible. Nevertheless, perseverance has prevailed and we are proud to offer a reproduction of one of the earliest A-2 contracts the U. S. Air Corps ever awarded to a manufacturer.
The Werber 1729 A-2 Flight Jacket is now available in Eastman Leather's Vintage War Horse® horse hide leather, which is imported from a top Italian tannery that specializes in vegetable tanning horse hide - this leather is just superb!
About Vintage War Horse®: Some A-2 Jackets, particularly those produced under earlier contracts from the 1930s and including some of those produced up to the early days of 1942, were finished in a rudimentary, pure aniline dye that gave the leather a very clear, almost-raw appearance that showed every detail of the underlying skin; the overall look can be somewhat mottled, revealing all of the rich character of the leather much in the same way a clear stain would reveal all of the depth and grain of a piece of wood. And although the hides used in making this A-2 Jacket are top-quality in grade, you will also see every range mark or insect bite in the horsehide if such natural occurrences are present, and more than any other A-2 Flight Jacket Eastman offers in different aniline or other dye finishes, this A-2 Flight Jacket's dye finish will wear and gain that cherished vintage character more quickly - you won't look like some FNG in this A-2 Jacket for very long! This A-2 Flight Jacket is for the purest who appreciates all of the natural characteristics found in horsehide and in those early A-2 Flight Jackets, which includes deep grain leaping out in rivulets and valleys throughout the garment's hide. Make no mistake - this is the Army, Mr. Jones!
One of the glowing features we have managed to reproduce for this garment is the early-production Hookless zipper. Although a Talon-branded zip was the most prevalently used maker in the early-contract jackets, we felt it would be a little bit more special to go the extra mile and bring you a true icon of the past – Hookless Fastener! Hookless was the former brand name of Talon, and from 1913 to the early 1930's, Hookless zips were produced and supplied to many of the companies producing military clothing, not least, of course, to the manufacturers of the A-2 Jacket, such as Werber. The name on the puller portion of the zipper changed from Hookless to Talon at some time after the company decided to change its name, though the zip design was exactly the same as it had been under the Hookless brand. Since then, Hookless has become extinct, but we are producing the Hookless zipper again, and doing it to an incredible level of authenticity: from the gauge of the teeth, to the unique box-less, open-end linking design, this is an exact facsimile of the original Hookless zipper.
Please take note of these authentic details found only on an original Werber Leather Coat Co. A-2 of this contract and our copy:
• Exact copy of the original maker’s label produced on a vintage shuttle loom
• All-cotton thread construction as found on all original A-2 Flying jackets of the 1930—'40s
• Collar assembly featuring a leather collar ring, exactly as found on all vintage A-2s originally produced by Werber
• 3-ounce weight, fully vegetable-tanned Italian horse hide outer shell dyed in a gorgeous full-aniline finish of a caramel-like brown color
• Single-piece back construction
• Custom manufacturing of the correct weight and weave all-cotton inner-lining fabric to precisely match 1930s Air Corps specs. and dyed in the rust-brown shade found on vintage Werber A-2s of this contract
• Metal collar clip custom manufactured to the original early spec., finished in correct semi-matte nickel plating and hand sewn into the collar; an attaching feature found only on the A-2s of early vintage before riveted clips were employed
• Custom manufacture of correct ball-and-socket-style press studs located on pockets and collar ends, exactly duplicating the unusual arrangement found on the original Werber copied here, whereby larger (pocket-size) press studs are found on both pocket and collar
• Shoulder straps exactly matching the shape, size and stitch style found on original Werber A-2s of this contract, with only one row of stitching to outside edge – a unique feature to only this contract
• Leather strip interfacing to left lining panel where it joins to the zipper - another feature found only on the earliest contracts
• Top-stitched thumb seam on sleeve, as well as on bottom hem and cuff - found only on early-contract A-2s
• Incredibly authentic reproduction of the early Hookless zipper with all-metal base riveted at zipper bottom for extra strength at this area of great stress
• Two snap-down exterior pockets with stitching and pocket-flap configuration exactly matching the style found on original Werber A-2s of this contract
• Snap-down collar exactly matching the shape, size and stitch style found on original Werber A-2s of this contract
• Custom manufacturing of the correct two-ply all-wool knit cuffs and waist skirt in caramel brown, with cuffs correctly graduating from a wider weave into a more narrow weave, exactly matching those found on original Werber A-2s of this contract
• Heavy leather hanging loop correctly sewn directly through the jacket lining and outer leather shell using a box stitch
• Label (with printed size and individual jacket number) located in pocket, exactly matching those found on original Werber A-2s
Sizes available: 36-48 regular. Long and extra-long fittings available at no additional cost on custom order only. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Imported from England
USAC A-2 Flying Jacket, Werber Leather Coat Co. 1729
SIZING TIPS
About this Style: This A-2 style is one of the easier-wearing designs. Most body types can be accommodated in this style without major issues, though it just may take some work to establish the correct size for a select number of customers.
Tip 1: Follow the instructions entitled “How to Use Product Measures to Obtain a Good Fit” listed under the PRODUCT MEASUREMENTS tab for this product. After finding no substantive conflicts with your body measures obtained from the tab entitled BODY MEASURING, order this garment with no less than 4”of room in excess of your chest measure if you prefer a trim fit throughout, thus if you have a 40” chest circumference measure, order size 40. If a roomier or longer fit is desired, then order the next available size after reviewing all relative measures that pertain to that size. Those whose chest measure falls on an odd number, such as 41” or 43”, will have to determine if they want less room or more room when selecting a jacket size.
Tip 2: Please note that your chest circumference measure is not necessarily the labeled size you wear in another jacket you may own from a different maker or even the same maker, so please take the time to obtain your true chest circumference measure so as to compare to our chart of jacket measures; this will enable us to perform a better job getting you the right size and minimize your chances in having to deal with the hassle and cost of exchanges.
Please ask us for fitting advice if in doubt.
Tip 3: Individuals who prefer looser fits and/or those with a waist measure that is nearly equal to or greater than their chest circumference measure may jump up one - two sizes in this jacket for comfort and desired fit (when we refer to waist measure we do not mean your trouser size; we mean the actual circumference measure of your waistline at its widest point). If you are unsure of the size to order we will assist you; please contact us with the following information: Height, waist circumference measure, chest circumference measure, body weight, and type of clothing to be worn beneath the jacket most of the time, as well as the type of fit you prefer: Trim, roomy or oversized.
USAC A-2 Flying Jacket, Werber Leather Coat Co. 1729
PRODUCT MEASUREMENTS
The following table provides actual product measures. These measures are provided as an aid because, in conjunction with the information found under the SIZING TIPS tab for each product, they can sometimes be very useful when comparing the measurements from this garment to the measures of your body; however, acting as an armchair tailor should be done with caution, as well as with knowledge of other important areas of fit that are not displayed here. Armchair tailors frequently fail to take into account other significant elements that impact fit; following the information found under the SIZING TIPS tab for each garment on this web site is strongly suggested, which can be very useful in supplanting or supplementing the listed measures below.
Our measures were derived from averaging measurements taken from many garments of the same size from each specific size in the range of any given product, thus the measures provided are representative for each size but they may not be exactly what you will receive. Some fluctuation in size is normal and to be expected, especially in these garments that have been manufactured on the bench by hand. Size fluctuations are rarely encountered in the width measures and more typically encountered in length measures, and particularly with respect to leather jackets and jackets with knit cuffs and waistbands. Fluctuations in width measures are very rare, and when they are encountered they are typically insignificant: 1/8” – ¼”. Normal fluctuations in sleeve and/or body length + /- a ½” are more common but still rare, and such fluctuations in that increment range are within spec. for jackets of the same size and style.
Long and Extra Long fittings are available upon custom order and aren’t returnable unless faulty. A Long fitting adds 1” to both the arm and body lengths listed in the measures provided, while an Extra-Long fitting adds 1 ½” to both of these areas of measure. Delivery times are greatly extended for custom orders. Please contact us to place an order for a Long or Extra-Long fitting.
| Size | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 |
| Chest width | 20" | 21" | 22" | 23" | 24" | 25" | 26" |
| Shoulder width | 16.75" | 17.5" | 18" | 18.5" | 19" | 19.5" | 20" |
| Arm length | 24" | 24.5" | 25" | 25.5" | 26" | 26.5" | 27" |
| Back length | 24" | 24.5" | 25" | 25.5" | 26" | 26.5" | 27" |
How to Use the Product Measures to Obtain a Good Fit:
1) Using the measurements listed for this product and information found under the tab entitled MEASURING GARMENTS to understand our measuring technique, please double the chest measure to obtain the total external chest circumference of this garment. For example: If the chest measure listed for size 40 is 22”, doubling this measure yields a 44” external chest circumference.
2) Measure your chest circumference as per the tab on this web site specifically addressing BODY MEASURING, then compare your chest measure to the chest measure of this product.
3) Many jackets are cut in such a way that the wearer requires no less than 3” of room in the jacket for a sleek fit that is also comfortable, while other jacket styles require the wearer to have more than 6” of room. If your chest circumference is 40”, a product with a 22” chest width has a 44” external chest circumference and would provide 4” of external room in this scenario (chest measures 40”, external chest measure of jacket is 44”, thus 4” of external room would be realized).
4) Again, using the measurements listed for this product and information under the MEASURING GARMENTS tab to understand our measuring technique, add half of the shoulder width to the arm length. For example: If the shoulder width is 18” and the arm length is 25”, adding 9” (half the shoulder width) to 25” (the arm length) will yield an overall sleeve length of 34” in this product.
5) Measure your overall sleeve length following the instructions on this web site under the tab specifically addressing BODY MEASURING, then compare your overall sleeve length to this product.
6) If desired, repeat the measuring comparisons for back length.
7) Compare your body measures to the listed garment measures and follow the advice found under the SIZING TIPS tab to obtain a good fit.
IMPORTANT: Because you need room in a garment for comfort, garments with a 44” chest circumference are NOT a size 44, nor are they intended for anyone with a 44” chest circumference. Tee shirts and thermal shirts tend to have the most body-hugging fits of our product offerings because these were originally intended to be undergarments, thus these can be ordered to stretch to fit if that is how you wish to wear such garments. Other shirts, sweatshirts, sweaters, jackets, etc. will all have some amount of room incorporated in their designs, thus these will all measure larger than your actual chest measure by varying degrees.
Sometimes-Problematic Way to Determine a Good Fit:
Due to differences in how even near-identical garments are cut by different manufacturers, it is not necessarily a good idea to compare the listed measures of this product to the measures of an existing, similar product in your wardrobe to determine the correct size to order in this product. Though such comparisons can indeed work some of the time, and maybe even most of the time, vast experience with and knowledge of the products we market has proven such practices will sometimes fail. This inaccurate measuring methodology doesn't factor in other key variables of fit relative to you and the garment that includes: Armhole opening, shoulder slope, high-point shoulder, high chest, width of sleeves at all points including the all-important elbow, waist measure, and the thickness, plumpness, and rigidity of the material the garment is made from, naming just some variables influencing fit that do not appear on any list of measurements for a garment or that a customer is likely to account for.
It is best to compare your actual body measures to the listed measures of this product AND follow our advice listed under the SIZING TIPS tab specific to this product to obtain a good fit in this style.
A Good Fit:
This is highly subjective - what one person may think is too big, another may think fits perfectly. Some garments are cut quite generously and others are cut quite trimly. If comparing measurements of one of our products to another you may own, some individuals will surely find that none or maybe only one area of measure is commonly shared or remotely close to being the same. Ultimately, chest measure is the most important area to properly fit, then all other areas of measure will have to fall into place. And some individuals who are extremely tall may find that body and/or sleeve length are more important to accommodate than even chest measure.
It is best to compare your actual body measures to the listed measures of this product AND follow our advice listed under the SIZING TIPS tab specific to this product to obtain a good fit in this style.
Please understand that no jacket can be two jackets in one (you may have to make a compromise in fit somewhere). The best look is achieved wearing a shirt and undershirt, or a medium-weight sweater with undershirt; the goal being a trim, sleek look. If the application of our jackets is with multiple layers of clothing, then the original look will be compromised; when purchased oversized, please keep in mind that the jacket will fit NOT trimly but LOOSELY when fewer clothes are worn.
As a rule here, if the jacket squares up nicely on the shoulders when worn with the sort of clothing you will wear most of the time, falls about 1 1/2" below the top of your trousers (if a waist-length jacket), allows you to reach into trouser pockets and recover keys, wallet and change without discomfort or pain, as well as allow normal strides while walking, then this is very likely a good fit and how the jacket would have been worn when originally issued.
Using the good-fit test where one draws their arms across their chest as a barometer for snugness will almost certainly produce some binding in an A-2 jacket of the correct size, and thus push you further up the sizing scale into a very large A-2 jacket. A true 1940s A-2 jacket has no bi-swing action back (as found on the USN M-422A or G-1 jackets, USAAF B-6, Tanker jacket, etc.) and is not cut for such a great range of movement as experienced when doing the arm-crossing act. If you can get that sort of movement range without binding in one of our A-2s, then it will surely be rather loose and sloppy when you aren't drawing your arms across your chest in front of you.
What makes more sense, having a jacket that looks great and feels fine during 90% of your activities, or only when you cross your arms in front of you? Do you walk around with your arms crossed in front of you? The choice is yours and we will gladly oblige all tastes, but do try to get the look originally intended.
