The U. S. Navy's Hook-Front Deck Jacket from 1943 remains a classic.  Just as with Buzz Rickson's Heavyweight, Non-Stenciled N-1 Deck Jackets, this style has been meticulously and precisely copied from vintage examples in every way, with the exception of not printing the "U. S. NAVY" text on the jacket's back.  All of these Buzz Rickson deck jackets utilize the same correct heavyweight, corded-cotton fabric found on the heavyweight N-1.  However, unlike the N-1, in this specific model the use of the fabric in so-called khaki is a fantasy since this style was only originally produced in dark blue, but the design team at Buzz Rickson's thought offering this color choice would be warmly received.  In every other way, this is a jacket style that is faithful to the original design and materials utilized.

Buzz Rickson’s philosophy is always to reproduce an item as authentically as humanly possible, which means utilizing the original machinery of the era and making the item so it doesn’t just look the part, but producing the item so it can actually function in the same way the original item was intended, thus Buzz Rickson’s is never engaged in making costumes; they are engaged in recreating rugged, functional history!  A cellulose plastic inner liner is sandwiched between the corded-cotton outer fabric and the blanket-wool lining to help keep cold winds from penetrating to the wearer's body, and heavy, military bar tacks are sewn at every key stress point specified and found on the original deck jackets, thus pocket corners and storm flap are constructed to function and endure in the same adverse, challenging conditions of combat that the jackets produced back in 1943 so did.

Please take note of all of these historically accurate features found on this Buzz Rickson’s masterpiece reproduction of the 1943 Hook-Front Deck Jacket: 

• Exact copy of original USN contract label design woven on vintage shuttle looms

• Custom manufacturing of the correct, heavyweight, corded-cotton outer shell to precisely match USN specs. but dyed in so-called khaki (one of the many permutations of Olive Drab #2)

• Cotton-thread construction

• Custom manufacturing of the correct, blanket-wool lining to precisely match 1940’s USN specs but dyed olive drab

• Two external “D-style” hand-warmer patch pockets lined with the correct cotton broadcloth

• Magnificent copy of the USN 1943-spec. hinging, hook-style metal clasps painted olive drab

• Waterproof, windproof celluloid plastic inner liner sandwiched between warm wool inside lining and hard-wearing corded shell exterior, exactly as per the original design

• Sewn bar tacks on all major stress points as per the original specs., including pocket corners and placket front

• Large wind flap protector located behind clasp closure to keep cold air gusts and water out

• Custom manufacturing of the correct, two-ply 100% worsted-wool knit cuffs, collar and waist band

• Eyelet vents in armpits

Sizes available: 36-44 Regular in even-numbered sizes.  The cut is generous, thus enabling us to comfortably fit chest measures up to 46" or even 48" with size 44. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit. 

Buzz Rickson’s goods are imported from Japan

Buzz Rickson brand has hit a home run with this classic look from summer service in U. S. Naval aviation history.  The design dates back to mid-WWII, designated as the AN-J-2/Spec. AN-6551; it was slightly modified immediately postwar, and the designation changed to M-716/Spec. MIL-J-7758A, where it continued in service well into the late 1950's, with some still being worn into the 1960's.  

This flying jacket was intended for summer or tropical use, being constructed of one layer of a super-tight, densely woven, khaki-colored, 4.5-ounce cotton twill that was almost a poplin; lacking a lining, in essence, this jacket was nothing but the lightest of windbreakers intended to function as a vehicle to hold the basics an aviator needed without adding insulation.  It is in the aforementioned capacity that this style performed admirably, having exceptional utility and comfort that was matched with no-nonsense good looks.  In fact, so desirable were these garments, they continued to be worn upon leaving the service, and they were also quickly gobbled up in surplus stores by a civilian market that had nothing remotely equal; today, vintage examples are nearly impossible to find in nice condition and they fetch significant sums from serious collectors, as they were worn to ruination in the ensuing years.  

What Buzz Rickson's created in their rendering of this coveted jacket style amounts to New Old Stock (NOS). Please check out the following authentic features in this New-Old-Stock, museum-grade gem we’ve come to expect from Buzz Rickson’s:

•Exact copy of the contractor label woven on a vintage shuttle loom, with each label being size specific, exactly as found on vintage examples

•Custom production of the original-style, genuine urea buttons, not cheap plastic

•Custom manufacturing of the correct 4.5-ounce, fine-gauge, tightly woven cotton twill (almost poplin) produced on vintage shuttle looms and dyed to the correct khaki shade using original dying techniques

•Pen/pencil pocket on left sleeve

•Authentic collar-reinforcement stitching with an inner lining sewn between both outer layers of collar fabric, exactly the way all high-quality garments are produced, and a key detail of quality and authenticity missing on lesser copies of all forms of reproduction shirts and jackets

•Four flap-closure pockets

•Precision copy of a 1950's, brass TALON zipper, with all-cotton zipper tape (not poly-cotton) folded and glued at the base (no plastic or polymers are used)

•Bi-swing, double-pleated action back for superb range of movement, with half-belt at waist area

•Gusseted armpit for greater range of movement and comfort

•Precise pattern grading matching the exact measurements employed for production of the original jackets, including such critical areas as neck drop, shoulder slope, armhole opening, shoulder width, etc.  Because of this uncompromising attention to authenticity in fit and fabrics, this Buzz Rickson’s MIL-J-7758A will fit, drape and look exactly as did the original jackets when worn.

Sizes available:  36-44 Regular in even-numbered sizes.  The fit is generous, as found on the original jackets, thus size 44 comfortably fits up to a 46" chest measure.  Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Buzz Rickson’s goods are imported from Japan

Buzz Rickson's brand is renowned for producing truly standout copies of the legendary G-1 Flying Jacket, and they really went over the top on this gem!  This limited-edition style combines the original features of the U. S. Navy G-1 Intermediate Flying Jacket (spec. 7823 from 1950) with styling from Buzz Rickson’s William Gibson Collection.  The original standards of quality and material types have been strictly adhered to by Buzz Rickson’s, but with a distinct slant toward supreme luxury and durability, and, of course, you have William Gibson’s personal approval of each item in the collection.  

G-1 jackets of the 1950's were originally produced in one of the strongest, most desirable leather types - goatskin - which was keenly sought after and which cost more than hides such as horse or steer.  The designers at Buzz Rickson's wanted to match the heavy grain and durability found in vintage goatskin when planning this jacket, and so they sourced some amazing goatskin.  This sumptuous goatskin is sourced from India, where a preeminent tannery selects only the best-of-the-best hides, all 3 ounces in weight, and fully vegetable tanned for a firm-yet-supple hand, then fully aniline dyed jet black for a luxurious, character-rich finish.

Beyond the industry-leading leather quality and character and beyond the supreme comfort and flattery of the genuine U. S. Navy fit, is the mind-blowing rayon lining and fur collar.  Buzz Rickson's brand has always had their heavyweight rayon acetate lining custom made to match Navy-spec. rayon fabric in weight, appearance, and hand, but the lining on this example is especially noteworthy - the color, weave, and weight just hit you as something only seen on a vintage example - it both looks and feels just as a vintage G-1 did and does from the 1950's!  Assembly follows original specs. using all-cotton thread, and vintage looms are used to create the incredible, heavyweight rayon-twill lining. 

Merino sheepskin is something Buzz Rickson has tweaked to perfection for at least the last 5 years.  Somewhere, the Buzz Rickson brand has located a tannery that seems to generate Merino sheepskin as if it had been genetically engineered to match the mind's fantasy of ideals:  The sheepskin used on the collars of these G-1 jackets is nothing short of mouth-watering, sumptuous, mega-plush, half-inch genuine Merino sheepskin that is just not of this Earth!

The sum of all of this is an heirloom jacket that can be handed down to the next generation - there's nothing disposable about a Buzz Rickson's leather jacket!  This Buzz Rickson William Gibson G-1 is a masterpiece of wearable jacket art crafted in rugged materials that are as beautiful as they are durable.  Please note the following materials and features:

• Copy of original maker’s label design produced on a vintage shuttle loom, not a modern projectile loom

• Custom manufacturing of the correct weight and weave rayon acetate lining dyed the original shade of a purple-like brown

• Custom manufacturing of the correct two-ply, worsted-wool cuffs with the narrow weave graduating into the wider weave at top, dyed jet black

• Custom manufacturing of the correct single-ply, bi-directional, worsted-wool waistband, dyed jet black

• Two button-down exterior pockets lined with all-cotton twill precisely matching 1950 USN specs.

• One snap-down interior pocket lined with heavy-weight, all-cotton duck twill precisely matching 1950 USN specs.

• All buttons are genuine urea, not incorrect, cheap plastic 

• Exact copy of the vintage-style, blackened-metal Conmar Conmatic zipper on jacket front, with zip tape made of 100% cotton HBT fabric that is rolled and glued at the base, not made of incorrect poly-cotton that is heat sealed at the base with plastics

• Leather pull tab on zipper for easy functioning with gloves

• Heavy wind flap protector located behind zipper closure 

• Bi-swing action back and gusseted armpits (with metal air ventilators) for greater range of motion without restriction

• Gorgeous, plush, genuine mouton-fur collar dyed jet black, with backing leather correctly reinforced with trapunto stitching to maintain collar shape and help keep collar up when the need arises

• Sumptuous, vegetable-tanned, 3-ounce, heavy-grained goatskin that is not overly stiff or heavy, maintaining the true feel of the original jackets.  The black dye coating is sprayed on, just as it should be for a 55-J-14 G-1; the result is a leather that will distress and age over time from use and wear to yield a vintage look that is on par with anything made in the 1940's-'50's

• Assembly using vintage sewing machines

Even sizes 36-44 Regular.   Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Buzz Rickson goods are imported from Japan

Buzz Rickson's brand is renowned for producing truly standout copies of the famous G-1 Flying Jacket and they really went over the top on this gem!  This limited-edition style combines the original features of the U. S. Navy G-1 Intermediate Flying Jacket (spec. 7823 from 1950) with styling from Buzz Rickson’s William Gibson Collection.  The original standards of quality and material types, except the leather type, have been strictly adhered to by Buzz Rickson’s, but with a distinct slant toward supreme luxury and durability, of course, and you have William Gibson’s personal approval of each item in the collection.  

The leather type is really at the heart of making this jacket so supremely magnificent.  G-1 jackets of the 1950's were originally produced in one of the strongest, most desirable leather types - goatskin - which was keenly sought after and which cost more than hides such as horse or steer.  The designers at Buzz Rickson's wanted to match the heavy grain and durability found in vintage goatskin when planning this jacket, but without actually employing goatskin.  The answer was shrunken buffalo hide!

Shrunken buffalo hide is sometimes referred to as goatskin on steroids.  The hide is even tougher than goatskin, yet it remains pliable, and the grain is larger and even more coarse than what is found on goatskin.  Shrunken buffalo hide is also considerably more costly than goatskin, largely because one is paying for the footage of hide that starts out before it is shrunken, then adding on the costs to perform the shrinking process, where one then has less hide to work with at a cost per square foot that then exceeds the original hide's cost per square foot.  Shrinking the hide increases the grain per square inch and the strength of the hide, hence why the process is employed.   

This sumptuous buffalo leather is sourced from the best leather country in the world – Italy- where a preeminent tannery selects only the best-of-the-best hides, all 3.5 ounce in weight, and fully vegetable tanned for a firm-yet-supple hand, then aniline dyed jet black for a luxurious, character-rich finish.  Assembly follows original specs. using all-cotton thread, and vintage looms are used to create the heavy, rayon acetate lining.  The sum of all of this is an heirloom jacket that can be handed down to the next generation - there's nothing disposable about a Buzz Rickson's leather jacket!

This Buzz Rickson William Gibson G-1 is a masterpiece of wearable jacket art crafted in rugged materials that are as beautiful as they are durable.  Please note the following materials and features:

• Copy of original maker’s label design produced on a vintage shuttle loom

• Custom manufacturing of the correct weight and weave rayon acetate lining dyed the original shade of a purple-like brown

• Custom manufacturing of the correct two-ply, worsted-wool cuffs with the narrow weave graduating into the wider weave at top, dyed jet black, and made in a heavier weight to better hold up in conjunction with the heavier leather 

• Custom manufacturing of the correct single-ply, bi-directional, worsted-wool waistband, dyed jet black, and made in a heavier weight to better hold up in conjunction with the heavier leather 

• Two button-down exterior pockets lined with all-cotton twill precisely matching 1950 USN specs.

• One snap-down interior pocket lined with heavy-weight, all-cotton duck twill precisely matching 1950 USN specs.

• Exact copy of the vintage-style, blackened-metal Conmar Conmatic zipper on jacket front, with zip tape made of 100% cotton HBT fabric, not incorrect poly-cotton

• Leather pull tab on zipper for easy functioning with gloves

• Heavy wind flap protector located behind zipper closure 

• Bi-swing action back and gusseted armpits (with metal air ventilators) for greater range of motion without restriction

• Gorgeous, plush, genuine mouton-fur collar dyed jet black, with backing leather correctly reinforced with trapunto stitching on the to maintain collar shape and help keep collar up when the need arises

• Sumptuous, vegetable-tanned, 3.5-ounce, shrunken buffalo hide aniline-dyed jet black and imported from Italy

• Assembly using vintage sewing machines

Even sizes 36-44 Regular.   Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Buzz Rickson goods are imported from Japan

The U. S. Navy’s original Pea Coat was the 1910 model, fabricated from heavy, 36-ounce melton wool, outfitted with black urea buttons displaying an anchor surrounded by 13 stars, and both side-entry and flap-covered pockets.  Due to the lower pockets with pocket flaps, the coat design was longer in length than the Pea Coats of the late 1930's and subsequent years most individuals are familiar with.  Additionally, the interior of the coat was lined with wool flannel and not the rayon of the WWII Pea Coats.  A large-sized collar was incorporated in the design to block strong ocean winds and corduroy-lined pockets helped thwart the numbing effect on hands from the biting winter seas.  This was the same basic jacket design that went to war over 100 years ago with the U. S. Navy in WWI.

Once again, Buzz Rickson’s brand has resurrected a bygone treasure from the ground up, utilizing the vintage looms and know-how to craft fabrics not typically seen today, then deftly sewing the pieces together with vintage Union Special sewing machines to provide a finished product that comes as close to the vintage garment as is practical today.  What we end up with is a Pea Coat that transcends fashion by light years and bolts straight to the heart of classic style through the very functionality of the original design that has been so deftly reproduced.

You see, the glut of fashion Pea Coats found in catalogs and shopping malls the world over all have one big thing in common that separates them from a true Pea Coat of the Good Old Days:  fashion Pea Coats aren’t designed to do anything more than look like a Pea Coat!  Pick up any Pea Coat marketed today and feel the flimsy, sportcoat-grade poly-wool fabric, the knap of which pills into unsightly little balls with the first sign of hard use, condemning the coat to the trash within a few short seasons and never having kept anyone warm at latitudes further north than Miami. 

This Buzz Rickson’s Pea Coat is no light-weight fashionista statement; it’s made from 36-ounce melton wool and lined with wool flannel, both of which minimize loss of body heat and will wear as ferociously as did the Pea Coats that won WWI.  This is top-quality vintage craftsmanship irreplaceable at any price – this is Buzz Rickson’s.  Please take note of these authentic features:

• Exact copy of original U. S. Naval Clothing Factory contract label design woven on rayon

• Custom manufacturing of the correct, heavy-weight, 36-ounce, melton-wool outer shell in navy blue and produced on vintage looms

• Custom manufacturing of the correct, wool-flannel lining with two pockets

• Cotton-thread construction

• Two external hand-warmer pockets lined in the original-spec. heavy-weight corduroy

• Original-spec.10-button front featuring the pre-WWII buttons displaying an anchor surrounded by 13 stars

• Custom manufacture of the correct, rayon-acetate twill to line the sleeves for a durable, smooth application and removal of the coat

• Lower pockets lined in the same original-spec. heavy-weight corduroy as the upper, slash pockets

• Large wind-blocking collar with throat latch

Even-numbered sizes 34-46.   Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Buzz Rickson’s goods are imported from Japan.

This style is a one-time offering this year, last produced in 2012.  This version we offer is made exclusively for the USA and Europe, having no name plate and wings on the left breast as does the production version for Japan.

Developed in the late 1930's as a summer flying jacket that could be worn on its own or in combination with a one-piece flying suit and helmet made from the same hard-wearing, corded-cotton fabric dyed in a light shade of olive drab that could span bronze, khaki-like, pea green, and gray-green shades, the 37-J-1 was widely issued to USN and USMC airmen at the time, and it could still be seen being worn into the very early days of WWII.  The popularity of the 37-J-1 among naval aviators rested with its practical, good-looking design and the hard-wearing cotton fabric that was specifically developed for flying clothing; this is the same fabric that went into mass production in WWII for use in USN foul-weather suits from which the coveted "deck jackets" became omnipresent and and highly sought after.  The 37-J-1 also featured prominently in the 1941 film "Dive Bomber", which starred Errol Flynn and Fred MacMurray.  This was filmed in Technicolor and features a bounty of rare naval aircraft, uniforms, and flying gear; this is a must-see for all fans of naval aviation in the months just prior to WWII.

Today, the 37-J-1 is very much a collector's dream, being nearly impossible to source in nice condition and commanding some serious premiums if one is even fortunate enough to have the chance to make such a purchase.  Buzz Rickson's brand is known for producing the hardwearing, corded-cotton fabric to amazing likeness in their various WWII USN "deck jackets," and now using this same fabric they have performed an absolutely superb job at recreating the 37-J-1 to clone-like standards.  Please note these authentic features found only on the vintage original 37-J1 Flying Jackets and this Buzz Rickson's masterpiece:

• Exact copy of original USN contract label design woven on vintage shuttle looms

• Exact duplication of the original property mark “USN” stenciled in black above the left pocket

• Custom manufacturing of the correct, heavy, corded-cotton outer shell to precisely match USN specs. and dyed a light shade of khaki-like Olive Drab

• Custom manufacturing of the correct, lightweight, broadcloth-cotton lining d dyed a gray-green shade of light olive drab

• Exact copy of genuine urea buttons made on vintage dyes; urea is the only button type specified at the time

• Cotton-thread construction

• Custom manufacturing of the correct, two-ply, worsted-wool knit cuffs, collar, and waistband in gray-green Olive Drab

• Lacquered-metal grommet vents located in armpits

• Two-button closure on convertible collar

• Two external pockets with central gusset, button flap, and soft-cotton lining on pocket front

• Incredibly authentic reproduction of the early Hookless zipper with all-metal base riveted at zipper bottom for extra strength at this area of great stress

• Zipper pull fob made from jacket fabric and riveted in place

Sizes:  36-44.  Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Buzz Rickson’s goods are imported from Japan