Buzz Rickson's brand is renowned for producing truly standout copies of the famous G-1 Flying Jacket and this example is their same basic spec. 7823 (AER), the one that started all the love for Buzz Rickson's, but featuring a gorgeous honey-colored fur collar.  While the 7823 spec. required the collar fur to be a dark brown color that closely matched the leather color, the reality is that many were produced with collar fur in varying shades of brown, some of which were a golden-honey color that gorgeously contrasted against the dark brown leather.  Other than the fur color, this limited-edition Buzz Rickson's G-1 Flying Jacket is the same MIL-J-7823 (AER) spec. as their original model also available on this website.

Though the first G-1 dates to 1947, the spec. 7823 from 1950 was the first in a long series of the 7823's ranging up to 7823E, and it is this first 7823 that remains the most sought after.  No detail has been overlooked by Buzz Rickson's, which means every component part of the jacket had to be custom made to match buttons, zippers, and fabrics that no longer exist in the same form as was found in the early 1950's; however, it is the fit and sumptuous, grade-one goatskin that, along with its parts, that combines to make this a masterpiece.  

The goatskin comes in at 3-ounce weight and is fully vegetable tanned and pigment dyed only on the surface.  The leather is not at all stiff or heavy, but it is plump and robust, and fully unlike the heavily processed, chrome-tanned goatskin so commonly found in mainstream jackets.  Surface dying is how the original 7823's were dyed, which means the Buzz Rickson's G-1 will age and distress just as we see on those cherished vintage jackets with all the character of an old navy salt.  The sum of all the many parts is an heirloom jacket that fits like a dream and that can be handed down to the next generation - there's nothing disposable about a Buzz Rickson's leather jacket and it only gets better with use and age!

This Buzz Rickson G-1 is a masterpiece of wearable jacket art crafted in rugged materials that are as beautiful as they are durable.  Please note the following materials and features:

• Copy of the original style contractor label produced on a vintage shuttle loom

• Custom manufacturing of the correct weight and weave rayon acetate lining dyed the original shade of a purple-like brown

• Custom manufacturing of the correct two-ply, worsted-wool cuffs with the narrow weave graduating into the wider weave at top, dyed dark brown

• Custom manufacturing of the correct single-ply, bi-directional, worsted-wool waistband, dyed dark brown

• Two button-down exterior pockets lined with all-cotton twill precisely matching 1950 USN specs.

• One snap-down interior pocket lined with heavy-weight, all-cotton duck twill precisely matching 1950 USN specs.

• Exact copy of the vintage-style, blackened-metal Conmar Conmatic zipper on jacket front, with zip tape made of 100% cotton HBT fabric, not incorrect poly-cotton

• Leather pull tab on zipper for easy functioning with gloves

• Heavy wind flap protector located behind zipper closure 

• Bi-swing action back and gusseted armpits (with metal air ventilators) for greater range of motion without restriction

• Gorgeous, plush, genuine mouton-fur collar in a gorgeous golden-honey color and sewn with backing leather correctly reinforced by trapunto stitching to maintain collar shape and help keep collar up when the need arises.  The "USN" stencil is correctly applied in silver paint to the collar back.

• Sumptuous, vegetable-tanned, 3-ounce, goatskin that is not overly stiff or heavy, maintaining the true feel of the original jackets.  The dye coating is sprayed on, just as it should be for a 7823 G-1, and it's also very matte in finish; the result is a leather that will distress and age over time from use and wear to yield a vintage look that is on par with anything made in the 1950's.

• Assembly using vintage sewing machines

Even sizes 36-44 Regular.   Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Buzz Rickson goods are imported from Japan

The U. S. Navy M-422A was the definitive leather flying jacket of the USN and USMC in WWII, with the last examples being completed in early 1943.  Though conforming to an overall spec., each contractor that produced these jackets was given manufacturing latitude in such details as shape of collar and pocket flaps, lining construction, and other small details that did not alter function or overall design.  Among the numerous contractors of the M-422A was H & L Block, whose resultant jacket stands out for several of it features.

Buzz Rickson's brand is renowned for their leather USN intermediate flying jackets in the all-important area of fit; indeed, we deem the fit and design execution of these to be wrestling for the top spot in production today, and have elected to bring to our customers all styles currently offered. Buzz Rickson's has masterfully reproduced the H & L Block M-422A flying jacket as a limited edition and all the unique, interesting features of this contract are present.  H & L Block M-422A's can be found with either medium-brown goatskin leather and collar fur that is close in color or they can be observed with very dark brown goatskin leather with contrasting brown collar fur; Buzz Rickson's elected to produce the rarer version in dark brown with contrasting collar fur.  Please note these authentic features:

• Copy of H & L Block contractor label produced on a vintage shuttle loom

• Custom manufacturing of the correct weight and weave rayon acetate lining dyed the original shade of salmon-like red with central pleat that is unique to H & L Block

• Custom manufacturing of the correct two-ply, worsted-wool cuffs with the narrow weave graduating into the wider weave at top

• Custom manufacturing of the correct single-ply, bi-directional, worsted-wool waistband

• Two button-down exterior pockets lined with super-soft, tan all-cotton twill precisely matching what is found on most H & L Block M-422A's; a pencil slot is found under the left pocket flap.

• Genuine urea buttons correct to the era, not cheap plastic that did not exist in the 1940's 

• Sumptuous, vegetable-tanned, 3-ounce goatskin that is not overly stiff or heavy, maintaining the true feel of the original jackets.  The dye coating is aniline and given a glazed top coat in keeping with some of the leathers of the era; both the dye and the glazing will wear down and burnish with use, providing for a fabulous vintage aesthetic and patina.  

• Another feature unique to H & L Block and found on this copy is the use of goatskin leather as armhole shields in the lining:  this adds significant expense to the manufacture of this contract design but greatly extends the lining life in this key wear area.

• One snap-down interior pocket lined with heavy-weight, all-cotton duck twill precisely matching 1940's USN specs.

• Exact copy of the vintage-style, nickel-plated Talon zipper with zip tape made of 100% cotton HBT fabric, not incorrect poly-cotton

• Leather pull tab on zipper for easy functioning with gloves

• Heavy wind flap protector located behind zipper closure that is cut in the configuration associated with H & L Block M-422A's

• Bi-swing action back and gusseted armpits with sewn air ventilators (not metal); this is another unique feature of H & L Block M-422A's

• Gorgeous, plush, half-inch genuine mouton-fur collar dyed contrasting  brown, with backing leather correctly reinforced with trapunto stitching to maintain collar shape and help keep collar up when the need arises; correct  "U S N" stencil appears in yellow paint and without periods between letters:  the color and font are unique to H & L Block M-422A's.

• Assembly using all-cotton thread on vintage sewing machines

Even sizes 36-44 Regular.   Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Buzz Rickson goods are imported from Japan

The U. S. Navy's primary winter flying jacket in WWII was the M-445A, and due to the fact the USN's aviation arm was primarily serving in warmer climates vs. those of the U. S. Army, the sheepskin jackets of the USN are less well known and studied, but from a design and functionality perspective, the M-445A was vastly superior to the mainstay sheepskin jacket of the AAF - the B-3 flying jacket. By 1943, the AAF elected to slightly modify the USN's M-445A into a sheepskin jacket that would, in theory, serve both service branches as the AN-J-4, but few were made and all went exclusively to the AAF.  The M-445A and AN-J-4 were superior designs to all other sheepskin flying jacket styles employed by the U. S. at the time and included costly consumption of lavish quantities of leather and provided well-designed features such as extra leather reinforcing at all areas of stress and friction.

Vintage sheepskin flying jackets from WWII were made from whatever sheepskin was available, while, of course, conforming to a basic specification, but the vast majority of this sheepskin was nothing very special and simply served its intended purpose to protect and keep warm the aircrew assigned to wear such garments.  Some smaller number of all vintage sheepskin garments from WWII were made from very nice sheepskin that stood out for its quality and beauty, while still falling short of being in the league of the very best.  Due to the high demand on the world's sheepskin supply at the time, there was no distinction being made by the military between one type of sheep wool from another, and such high-end products as Merino fleece would have been procured alongside all of the others and turned into the same flying clothing, resulting in an infinitesimally very, very few sheepskin garments actually being of a pedigree above and beyond the rest, even though in the eyes of the military all were created and issued equally.

This Buzz Rickson's WWII USN M-445A sheepskin flying jacket, whether made during WWII or now, stands out like a king's jewels among rhinestones!  This sheepskin jacket is lovingly crafted from what we can assuredly say is the very finest Merino sheepskin we have ever seen; the coat can only be described as a penultimate masterpiece of artwork in the guise of a leather jacket.  There are simply not enough superlatives to adequately convey all of high-quality workmanship and beauty in this style. 

The combination of the extreme expense of these hand-selected Merino sheepskin pelts, the custom-made parts matching WWII specs., and the use of only the best labor from Japan's fur industry to craft this jacket bring its manufacturer's retail price in excess of $2, 700.00.  We, on the other hand, sometimes cannot stay out of the way of our own passion for something so amazingly special that we feel as if we have a duty to bring a select few of such specialized items to our most-discriminating clients, and at a profit margin below what any high-street store would unapologetically demand; accordingly, we are offering a tiny selection of these amazing jackets at a price discounted by $500.00 below their market price.  Once these few jackets are gone, there will be no more.

Please note these authentic features:

• Copy of original the original style contractor label design produced on a vintage shuttle loom
• Custom manufacturing of the correct two-ply, worsted-wool storm cuffs with the narrow weave graduating into the wider weave at top, and then hidden up inside the sleeve to protect the knit from damage and wear

• Two button-down exterior pockets made from premium, vegetable-tanned goatskin lined with all-cotton twill precisely matching 1940's USN specs.

• Exact copy of the vintage-style, nickel-plated Talon zipper with zip tape made of 100% cotton HBT fabric, not incorrect poly-cotton.  Zipper runs the full frontal length up to the collar top to secure against chilling winds right up to the nose, if desired

• Premium, vegetable-tanned goatskin pull tab on zipper for easy functioning with gloves
• Premium, vegetable-tanned goatskin hanger in neck area

• Heavy wind flap protector located behind zipper closure
• Adjusting belts on hips made from premium, vegetable-tanned goatskin and attached to oxide-coated metal buckles to help seal out chilling winds

• Gusseted armpits for greater range of motion without restriction
• Pencil slot hidden under pocket flap of left pocket
• Navy-style, diamond-shaped elbow reinforcements made from premiu,

• Zipper tape, cuff ends, bottom hem, and collar back covered on both sides in premium vegetable-tanned goatskin for extreme durability
• Collar back reinforced with 20 rows os stitching and attached with 5 rows of stitching
• Collar back stenciled in black paint with the letters "U. S. N.," exactly as found on vintage M-445A flying jackets
• All major seams are sewn using a twin-needle, flat-lock vintage sewing machine
• Zipper is attached and reinforced at collar with two pieces of premium vegetable-tanned goatskin
• Constructed from mouth-watering, sumptuous, mega-plush, half-inch genuine Merino sheepskin that its simply not of this Earth.  The wool color is best described as a gorgeous buttermilk color, with exterior dyed with a dark, bitter-shade of brown polyacrylate pigment and lacquered to repeal moisture

• All-cotton thread in contrasting medium-brown color employed throughout exterior construction, which will fade gracefully from exposure to sunlight, just as found on vintage jackets

Even sizes 36-44 Regular.   Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Buzz Rickson goods are imported from Japan

This is an exclusive item made only for us!

The U. S. Navy developed and used many different styles of cold-weather gear and clothing during the 1940s.  A sailor’s duties are very often performed in the most challenging and harsh weather conditions while at sea, thus clothing needed to be durable, warm and functional.  Winter jackets, commonly referred to as “Deck Jackets,” became the most cherished clothing articles of sailors during WWII and among collectors today.  Most of the deck jackets used in WWII evolved from a blue zip-front design that was very similar in appearance to the U. S. Army’s Winter Combat Jacket (Tanker Jacket).  By late 1943, the second version of this Deck Jacket design was being phased out of production and an entirely new design was being brought into use.

This all-new jacket took into account the lessons learned from two hard years of warfare at sea.  Though still manufactured with the same dark blue heavy, corded-cotton outer shell as on earlier examples, alpaca fur was now used as the lining material and the torso length grew longer for greater protection from the elements.  The knit collar was replaced with an alpaca fur collar, and also gone were the knit waist bands, exposed knit cuffs and patch pockets of the old jackets, all of which tended to snag on various objects or parts of a ship and cause tearing.  A new cuff design incorporated the knit cuff hidden up inside the sleeve, thus keeping the knit from snagging while still keeping out the cold wind, and the frontal jacket closure was now facilitated by a zipper as well as buttons.  A drawstring at the jacket’s bottom edges kept the wind out more effectively than the old knit band, all the while eliminating the snagging problem associated with knit bands, and gusseted armpit areas with eyelet vents provided greater freedom of movement and rapid drying of built-up perspiration.  Produced in very small numbers and but for a brief period, this new design was quickly superseded by a second version manufactured in a light olive drab color (now commonly called khaki) of the same heavy corded fabric.  The fabric color was changed from blue to this light shade of olive drab to better enable camouflaging of USN personnel both at sea and on landing operations.

Buzz Rickson’s took their ever-popular, adroitly re-created N-1 Khaki Deck Jacket and introduced it in an even-heavier version. Though the original color of the N-1 when new was intended to be the equivalent to the U. S. Army QM Olive Drab Shade #2, in actuality this color varied significantly and could span shades from green or close to khaki tan; once faded from exposure to the elements and washing, the lighter and closer to khaki tan it became.  Buzz Rickson’s has matched the color of their reproduction to duplicate one of the more bronze-shade jackets.

We, as Buzz Rickson’s N. American agent, requested to have made exclusively for us, beginning in the fall of 2014, this same jacket Buzz Rickson’s is famous for, but without the “USN” stencil in black on the left breast; other than the deletion of the “USN “stencil, this is the same jacket type issued to WWII sailors.

The N-1-style Deck Jacket is an all-American classic that looks as great today as it did in 1944, and it functions with many different clothing applications - surely this will fast become a favorite item in your wardrobe.  Please note of these authentic features:

• Exact copy of original USN contract label design printed on cotton fabric

• Exact copy of the original DEMOTEX-ED moth-proofing labels often found on the alpaca linings of vintage jackets have been reproduced using vintage shuttle looms

• Custom manufacturing of the correct, heavy, corded-cotton outer shell (this is heavier and even more durable than the outer shell on our standard N-1) to precisely match USN specs. and dyed a bronze shade of khaki-like Olive Drab

• Cotton-thread construction

• Custom manufacturing of the correct double-faced, brown-hued alpaca fur-and-wool lining to precisely match 1940s USN specs, which is even heavier than the lining of our standard N-1. We cannot say too much about the use of the original, double-faced alpaca, which is what provides the warmth associated with the vintage N-1 Jackets and requires vintage machinery found in Japan; at best, single-faced alpaca is present on cheaper look-alike costume-grade N-1 Jackets and Buzz Rickson's does not make costumes.

• Two external slash pockets

• A meticulous copy of a 1944 zipper in brass has been custom made at extreme expense, precisely matching vintage examples, including all-cotton zipper tape that is folded and glued at the base with no plastic or heat sealing

• Button-front wind flap protector located in front of zipper closure

• Custom manufacturing of the correct, two-ply, worsted wool-knit cuffs in Olive Drab, hidden up inside the sleeves to protect from wear

• Gusseted armpit construction with steel grommet vents

• Drawstring cords at jacket bottom to seal out the wind

• Throat latch that, when fastened, will help thwart chilling winds from entering the jacket neck area

Even-numbered sizes 36-46.   Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Imported from Japan

The U. S. Navy developed and used many different styles of cold-weather gear and clothing during the 1940s. A sailor’s duties are very often performed in the most challenging and harsh weather conditions while at sea, thus clothing needed to be durable, warm and functional. Winter jackets, commonly referred to as “Deck Jackets,” became the most cherished clothing articles of sailors during WWII and among collectors today. Most of the deck jackets used in WWII evolved from a blue zip-front design that was very similar in appearance to the U. S. Army’s Winter Combat Jacket (Tanker Jacket). By late 1943, the second version of this Deck Jacket design was being phased out of production and an entirely new design was being brought into use:  the N-1.

This all-new jacket took into account the lessons learned from two hard years of warfare at sea. Though still manufactured with the same dark blue corded-cotton outer shell as on earlier examples, alpaca fur was now used as the lining material and the torso length grew longer for greater protection from the elements. The knit collar was replaced with an alpaca-fur collar, and also gone were the knit waist bands, exposed knit cuffs and patch pockets of the old jackets, all of which tended to snag on various objects or parts of a ship and cause tearing. A new cuff design incorporated the knit cuff hidden up inside the sleeve, thus keeping the knit from snagging while still keeping out the cold wind, and the frontal jacket closure was now facilitated by a zipper as well as buttons. A drawstring at the jacket’s bottom edges kept the wind out more effectively than the old knit band, all the while eliminating the snagging problem associated with knit bands, and gusseted armpit areas with eyelet vents provided greater freedom of movement and rapid drying of built-up perspiration. Produced in very small numbers and but for a brief period, this new design was quickly superceded by a second version manufactured in a light olive drab color (now commonly called khaki) of the same heavy, corded fabric. The fabric color was changed from blue to this shade of olive drab to better enable camouflaging of USN personnel both at sea and on landing operations. This newer-colored version of the winter deck jacket was available in limited numbers by the spring of 1944 and photo documentation clearly reveals some sailors, including Rear Admiral A. D. Struble onboard the command ship USS AUGUSTA, outfitted with this jacket style during the D-Day landings in Normandy, France on 6 June 1944.

The deck jacket was modified again after WWII, with the most notable difference being the change in color from light olive drab to a dark olive green.  Further modifications were made to the design before being completely phased out in the 1960s, thus making the N-1-style deck jacket the longest serving in the U. S. Navy, and possible the best remembered. The N-1-style Deck Jacket is an all-American classic that looks as great today as it did in 1944, and it functions with many different clothing applications - surely this will fast become a favorite item in your wardrobe. Scorn the cookie-cutter look of “mall” jackets and grab a piece of 20th century American history that combines style with durability and utility.

This Buzz Rickson’s USN khaki N-1-style Deck Jacket copy superbly captures all of the nuances and features found on a vintage original example from 1944. Take note of these authentic features:

• Exact copy of original USN contract label design printed on cotton fabric

• Exact duplication of the original black stencil property mark “USN” applied to left chest

• Custom manufacturing of the correct, heavy, corded-cotton outer shell to precisely match USN specs. and dyed a light shade of khaki-like Olive Drab

• Cotton-thread construction

• Custom manufacturing of the correct double-faced, grey-hued alpaca fur-and-wool lining to precisely match 1940s USN specs. We cannot say too much about the use of the original, double-faced alpaca, which is what provides the warmth associated with the vintage N-1 Jackets and requires vintage machinery found in Japan; at best, single-faced alpaca is present on cheaper look-alike costume-grade N-1 Jackets and Buzz Rickson's does not make costumes.

• Two external slash pockets

• Vintage-style 1943 brass CONMATIC zipper

• Button-front wind flap protector located in front of zipper closure

• Custom manufacturing of the correct, two-ply, worsted-wool knit cuffs in Olive Drab, hidden up inside the sleeves to protect from wear

• Gusseted-armpit construction with eyelet vents

• Drawstring cords at jacket bottom to seal out the wind

Sizes:  XS - XXL.   Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Buzz Rickson’s goods are imported from Japan

The U. S. Navy had been requisitioning the iconic U. S. Army's Olive Drab Field Jacket (a. k. a. M-41) from 1942-44, when the Army determined in 1943 that no more would be produced in light of the jacket style's shortcomings and the new M-43 Field Jacket coming into production.  While the Army's Olive Drab Field Jacket was deemed inadequate for the primary combat arms of infantry and artillery and other field units, the needs of U. S. Navy ship and beach personnel were markedly different, and for these personnel the Olive Drab Field Jacket was seen essentially as good, and so the Navy developed its own version of this jacket style that incorporated specific modifications best suited for its needs, while maintaining the same overall style.  

The new USN Field Jacket style was procured as the N-4 in late 1944, though it is yet to be positively determined if any N-4 jackets ever arrived in combat theaters before the end of combat actions of WWII in 1945.  But the N-4 positively was issued stateside before the war's end and it continued to serve well after WWII.  The most noticeable differences between the N-4 and the Amy's Olive Drab Field Jacket is the color, which is dark Olive Drab shade 7 for the N-4, but close inspection also reveals the N-4 lacks the epaulets, bi-swing back, gusseted armpits, and belt adjusters at the hips that are found on the Army's Field Jacket, as well as having "U. S. N." printed in black on the left breast.  

Buzz Rickson's is, for the first time, now offering a masterpiece copy of the U. S. Navy's N-4 Utility Jacket; as usual, they have spared no expense and again recreated a classic jacket style as if it had to pass U. S. Navy standardized testing, which includes custom manufacturing all component parts to the original specs. using now-outdated vintage machinery.  It is Buzz Rickson's attention to detail and historical purity that separates a true uniform item intended to function in adverse, challenging conditions from a costume possessing only basic characteristics of resemblance to the original item:  the U. S. military wears uniforms, while trick-or-treaters wear costumes.

Please note these authentic features found only on a Buzz Rickson's masterpiece and original-issue N-4 Field Jackets of the U. S. Navy:

•Exact copy of contractor label printed on off-white cotton in neck area.

•Correct interlining of collar and lapels for proper shape and durability, with reinforcing stitching on collar back.

•Custom production of the original-style urea buttons, not cheap plastic buttons.

•Custom manufacturing of the correct 5.5-ounce cotton poplin produced on vintage looms of the 1940’s and dyed to a correct shade of Olive Drab 7 using the old-style dyes.

•Custom manufacturing of the correct wool-and-cotton flannel lining produced on vintage looms of the 1940’s and dyed to a typical brownish shade of Olive Drab using the old-style dyes.

•Genuine bar tacks on all major stress points as per the USN spec., not just cheap look-a-like stitching.

•Two slash-style, internally hung pockets correctly lined in the same flannel as the jackets's lining.

•Exacting reproduction of a late-war Conmar brass zipper on cotton HBT zipper tape that is rolled and glued at the base with no plastic heat seal, exactly as done in 1944.

• Correct U. S. N. stamping in black on left breast.

•Precise pattern grading matching the exact measurements employed for production of the original N-4 jackets, including such critical areas as neck drop, shoulder slope, armhole opening, shoulder width, etc.  Because of this uncompromising attention to authenticity in fit and fabrics, this Buzz Rickson’s N-4 will fit, drape, function, protect,  and look exactly as did the original N-4 Jackets.

Due to the original, generous fit of the design, we can comfortably fit up to 46" chest measures.   Please do NOT attempt to guess at sizing; please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Imported from Japan

Developed in the prewar era exclusively for the submarine service by the U. S. Navy, these woolen coats were as few as there were submariners at the time and the survival rate for these coats was even lower due, possibly, to being so tasty to munching insects, nicely warm, and not at all military looking, thus enabling them to easily "walk away" when sailors left the service.  Today, such coats are beyond rare and will fetch significant money among collectors, but you now can have a new one in your size to enjoy, thanks to Buzz Rickson's.

The design is very simple, yet it is its functional simplicity that makes it so appealing.  The wool is charcoal in color, which is another surprise for U. S. Navy clothing, and it is a chunky, flecked fabric with a subtle, wide-weave herringbone pattern.  There is no lining in this coat as the intention was for use both on its own and with multiple layers, but all internal seams are fully covered in binding tape as one would expect for quality clothing from the 1930's.  Not excessively heavy, but still robust enough on its own for temperatures in the upper 30's F.; thanks to the full design, it can be worn with significant underclothing for lower temperatures.  

Grab a slice of old-school winter gear from the U. S. Navy's prewar "silent service" in this Buzz Rickson's unique design rarity.  

• Button-front closure
• Custom manufacturing of the correct urea buttons, not plastic
• Custom manufacturing of the correct heavy worsted-wool using vintage machinery
• Assembly using vintage sewing machines
• Pocket flaps and interior cuffs are backed with all-cotton black cotton exactly as found on the original jacket style and interior seams are taped
• Vintage-style label produced on vintage shuttle looms
• DRY CLEAN ONLY

Even sizes 36-44 Regular (these run full and can fit larger than tagged, thus a 46" chest measure can be comfortably accommodated).   Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Imported from Japan

Buzz Rickson's brand is world renowned for producing truly standout copies of the famous USN intermediate flying jackets, commonly, albeit erroneously, all lumped together as G-1 Flying Jackets.  Before the first G-1 Flying Jacket designation (Spec. 55-J-14) of 1947, these intermediate flying jackets made of leather began as spec. M-422; following the USN M-422A Intermediate (goatskin) Flying Jacket, the AN-6552 Intermediate Flying Jacket was the next in succession in late 1942.  Developed as a jacket for both the USAAF and USN, hence the "AN" designation (Army/Navy), the back of the collar was not stenciled with "U. S. N." as found on the M-422/M-422A, but with "U. S."  This new AN-6552 Flying Jacket we are introducing elevates the Buzz Rickson reputation with this jacket type to levels so spectacular, we are left fully bereft of adequate words to describe it.

This offering is a meticulous copy of an AN-6552 Flying Jacket produced in 1944, duplicating the typical jackets produced by the rare contractor, American Sportswear Co.  No detail has been overlooked by Buzz Rickson's brand, which means every component part of the jacket had to be custom made to match buttons, zippers, and fabrics that no longer exist in the same form as was found in the war years; however, it is the fit, taken directly from vintage U. S. Navy specs., and the sumptuous Merino sheepskin collar and grade-one goatskin that, along with this jacket's many other parts, combine to make this nothing less than wearable history recreated. 

The goatskin is positively striking in every way. The leather weight comes in at a robust 3-ounces per square foot and is fully vegetable tanned, rich with heavy grain, and dyed only on the surface with full-pigment dyes.  The leather is not at all stiff or overly heavy, but it is plump and firm, and fully unlike the heavily processed, chrome-tanned goatskin so commonly found in mainstream jackets.  Surface dying is how the original AN-6552's were dyed, which means this Buzz Rickson's AN-6552 will age and distress just as we see on those cherished vintage jackets, with all the character of an old navy salt.  And we cannot say enough good about the look of this leather:  the coloring of the dye used and its attendant finish are simply the most like a new-condition, vintage AN-6552 as any we have ever seen!  

The AN-6552's of American Sportswear Co. were produced in a chestnut shade of dark brown; other copies of the these jackets typically can be much too dark in color, too shiny, or too matte in appearance, and the shade of brown is just never right where it needs to be - until NOW!  Even the top aficionados of the AN-6552 Flying Jackets will be duly impressed with what Buzz Rickson brand has achieved with this goatskin leather.  

Beyond the industry-leading leather quality and character, beyond the clone-like color and finish type, and beyond the supreme comfort and flattery of the genuine U. S. Navy fit, is the mind-blowing rayon lining and fur collar.  Buzz Rickson's brand has always had their heavyweight rayon acetate lining custom made to match Navy-spec. rayon fabric in weight, appearance, and hand, but because the coloring of the lining of a AN-6552 made by American Sportswear Co. is very much a salmon-like shade of pale, muted red-brown and very unique among contractors of the AN-6552's, the lining on this example is especially noteworthy - the color, weave, and weight just hit you as something only seen on a vintage example - it both looks and feels just as an AN-6552 produced by American Sportswear Co. did in 1944!  

Merino sheepskin is something Buzz Rickson has tweaked to perfection for at least the last 4 years.  Somewhere, the Buzz Rickson brand has located a tannery that seems to generate Merino sheepskin as if it had been genetically engineered to match the mind's fantasy of ideals:  The sheepskin used on the collars of these AN-6552 Flying Jackets is nothing short of mouth-watering, sumptuous, mega-plush, half-inch, genuine Merino sheepskin that is just not of this Earth!

Final touches that take this AN-6552 Flying Jacket into the heavens include the reproduction of a blackened-metal, late-1940's Conmar zipper, genuine urea buttons (never incorrect, cheap plastic), and a precise copy of the American Sportswear Co. label woven on vintage shuttle looms.  The sum of all the many parts is an heirloom, clone-like jacket that fits like a dream, and which can be handed down to the next generation - there's nothing disposable about a Buzz Rickson's leather jacket and it only gets better with use and age!

This Buzz Rickson G-1 55-J-14 is a masterpiece of wearable jacket art, crafted in rugged materials that are as beautiful as they are durable.  Please note the following materials and features:

• Copy of the original American Sportswear Co. woven label produced on a vintage shuttle loom, not modern projectile looms

• Custom manufacturing of the correct weight and weave of rayon acetate lining dyed to match the salmon-like shade of pale, muted red-brown associated with AN-6552's made by American Sportswear Co.

• Custom manufacturing of the correct two-ply, Navy-spec., worsted-wool cuffs with the narrow weave graduating into the wider weave at top, dyed chestnut brown to match what is commonly seen on AN-6552's made by American Sportswear Co.

• Custom manufacturing of the correct single-ply, bi-directional, Navy-spec., worsted-wool waistband, dyed medium brown to match what is commonly seen on AN-6552's made by American Sportswear Co.

• Two button-down exterior pockets lined with all-cotton twill precisely matching 1940's USN specs

• One snap-down interior pocket lined with heavy-weight, all-cotton duck twill precisely matching 1940's USN specs

• Exact copy of the vintage-style, blackened-metal Conmar Conmatic zipper on jacket front, with zip tape made of 100% cotton HBT fabric, not incorrect poly-cotton

• Leather pull tab on zipper for easy functioning with gloves

• Heavy wind flap protector located behind zipper closure 

• Bi-swing action back and gusseted armpits (with metal air ventilators) for greater range of motion without restriction

• Gorgeous, plush, genuine-Merino sheepskin collar with backing leather correctly reinforced with trapunto stitching to maintain collar shape and help keep collar up when the need arises.  The "US" stencil is correctly applied in yellow paint to the collar back in a font style precisely matching that found on AN-6552's manufactured by American Sportswear Co.

• Sumptuous, vegetable-tanned, 3-ounce, heavy-grained goatskin that is not overly stiff or heavy, maintaining the true feel of the original jackets.  The dye coating is sprayed on, just as it should be for an AN-6552, and it precisely matches the correct shade of chestnut brown and finish found on AN-6552's once made by American Sportswear Co.; the result is a leather that will distress and age over time from use and wear to yield a vintage look that is on par with anything made in the 1940's-'50's

• Genuine urea buttons, not incorrect, cheap plastic 

• Assembly using vintage sewing machines

Even sizes 36-44 Regular.   Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Buzz Rickson goods are imported from Japan

Last Few Left!!!

The U. S. Navy developed a zippered deck jacket exclusively for cold-weather use among aviation ground crews in 1941.  The style was very similar in outward appearance to the wool-lined version for use by all personnel, but the fit, measures, and other features belie any comparisons of similarity.  This version for ground crews was lined with a 50-50 blend of alpaca-and-wool pile and the patch pockets were different in design, being more D-shaped, and the fit, especially in the arms and armholes was much more narrow.  Also, unlike the similar-looking standard-issue zippered deck jacket that was produced in the millions, every example of the ground-crew version we have ever seen contains a label denoting production by the Naval Aircraft Factory (N. A. F.), which strongly supports our belief that the version for ground crews was made exclusively by the Naval Aircraft Factory and not produced by any civilian contractors:  N. A. F production would correspond with significantly smaller production numbers and be consistent with the smaller number of personnel serving in aviation vs. the entirety of the U. S. Navy.

This jacket style for ground crews, along with the general-issue deck jackets, received a "U. S. NAVY" stencil in silver-gray lettering across the upper back in 1942, but the early-production jackets had no such stencil and this Buzz Rickson's version has been made EXCLUSIVELY for us with an unmarked, plain back panel, which is 100% authentic for jackets produced prior to spring 1942.  All of these deck jackets utilize the same period-correct, heavyweight, corded-cotton fabric found on the Buzz Rickson heavyweight N-1 jacket.  Though the zippered deck jacket for general issue was superseded in 1943 by a hook-front version, this alpaca-lined version for ground crews did not experience any significant design changes, though the color was changed from dark blue to Olive Drab 3, commonly but erroneously called khaki, beginning with productions in early 1944.  

Buzz Rickson’s philosophy is always to reproduce an item as authentically as humanly possible, which means utilizing the original machinery of the era and making the item so it doesn’t just look the part, but producing the item so it can actually function in the same way the original item was intended, thus Buzz Rickson’s is never engaged in making costumes; they are engaged in recreating rugged, functional history:  heavy, military bar tacks are sewn at every key stress points specified and found on the original jackets, thus pocket corners and the storm flap are constructed to function and endure in the same adverse, challenging conditions of combat as the jackets that won WWII.

Please take note of all of these historically accurate features found on this Buzz Rickson’s masterpiece copy of the Alpaca-Lined, Navy Aviation Ground Crew Winter Jacket: 

• Exact copy of an original Naval Aircraft Factory (N. A. F.) label design woven on vintage shuttle looms, not modern, projectile looms

• Custom manufacturing of the correct, heavyweight, corded-cotton outer shell to precisely match USN specs. and correctly dyed in navy blue 

• Cotton-thread construction

• Custom manufacturing of the correct double-faced, brown-and-grey hued alpaca fur-and-wool lining to precisely match 1940's USN specs, which is the same heavyweight pile found on the Buzz Rickson Heavyweight N-1 Khaki Deck Jacket. We cannot say too much good about the use of the original, double-faced alpaca, which is what provides the warmth associated with the vintage jackets and requires vintage machinery found in Japan; at best, single-faced alpaca is present on cheaper look-alike costume-grade jackets and Buzz Rickson's does not make costumes.

• Two external “D-style” hand-warmer patch pockets

• Precise copy of a wartime, nickel-plated Talon zipper on correct, all-cotton HBT tape, not incorrect poly-cotton

• Heavyweight, corded-cotton exterior, exactly as per the original design

• Sewn bar tacks on all major stress points as per the original specs., including pocket corners and placket front

• Large wind flap protector located behind zipper closure to keep cold air gusts  out

• Custom manufacturing of the correct, two-ply 100% worsted-wool knit cuffs, collar and waist band

Sizes available: 36-44 Regular in even-numbered sizes.  Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit. 

Buzz Rickson’s goods are imported from Japan