Buzz Rickson N-1 Deck Jacket, U. S. Navy, Heavyweight, Khaki, Non-Stenciled HPA Edition
This is an exclusive item made only for us!
The U. S. Navy developed and used many different styles of cold-weather gear and clothing during the 1940s. A sailor’s duties are very often performed in the most challenging and harsh weather conditions while at sea, thus clothing needed to be durable, warm and functional. Winter jackets, commonly referred to as “Deck Jackets,” became the most cherished clothing articles of sailors during WWII and among collectors today. Most of the deck jackets used in WWII evolved from a blue zip-front design that was very similar in appearance to the U. S. Army’s Winter Combat Jacket (Tanker Jacket). By late 1943, the second version of this Deck Jacket design was being phased out of production and an entirely new design was being brought into use.
This all-new jacket took into account the lessons learned from two hard years of warfare at sea. Though still manufactured with the same dark blue heavy, corded-cotton outer shell as on earlier examples, alpaca fur was now used as the lining material and the torso length grew longer for greater protection from the elements. The knit collar was replaced with an alpaca fur collar, and also gone were the knit waist bands, exposed knit cuffs and patch pockets of the old jackets, all of which tended to snag on various objects or parts of a ship and cause tearing. A new cuff design incorporated the knit cuff hidden up inside the sleeve, thus keeping the knit from snagging while still keeping out the cold wind, and the frontal jacket closure was now facilitated by a zipper as well as buttons. A drawstring at the jacket’s bottom edges kept the wind out more effectively than the old knit band, all the while eliminating the snagging problem associated with knit bands, and gusseted armpit areas with eyelet vents provided greater freedom of movement and rapid drying of built-up perspiration. Produced in very small numbers and but for a brief period, this new design was quickly superseded by a second version manufactured in a light olive drab color (now commonly called khaki) of the same heavy corded fabric. The fabric color was changed from blue to this light shade of olive drab to better enable camouflaging of USN personnel both at sea and on landing operations.
Buzz Rickson’s took their ever-popular, adroitly re-created N-1 Khaki Deck Jacket and introduced it in an even-heavier version. Though the original color of the N-1 when new was intended to be the equivalent to the U. S. Army QM Olive Drab Shade #2, in actuality this color varied significantly and could span shades from green or close to khaki tan; once faded from exposure to the elements and washing, the lighter and closer to khaki tan it became. Buzz Rickson’s has matched the color of their reproduction to duplicate one of the more bronze-shade jackets.
We, as Buzz Rickson’s N. American agent, requested to have made exclusively for us, beginning in the fall of 2014, this same jacket Buzz Rickson’s is famous for, but without the “USN” stencil in black on the left breast; other than the deletion of the “USN “stencil, this is the same jacket type issued to WWII sailors.
The N-1-style Deck Jacket is an all-American classic that looks as great today as it did in 1944, and it functions with many different clothing applications - surely this will fast become a favorite item in your wardrobe. Please note of these authentic features:
- Exact copy of original USN contract label design printed on cotton fabric
- Exact copy of the original DEMOTEX-ED moth-proofing labels often found on the alpaca linings of vintage jackets have been reproduced using vintage shuttle looms
- Custom manufacturing of the correct, heavy, corded-cotton outer shell (this is heavier and even more durable than the outer shell on our standard N-1) to precisely match USN specs. and dyed a bronze shade of khaki-like Olive Drab
- Cotton-thread construction
- Custom manufacturing of the correct double-faced, brown-hued alpaca fur-and-wool lining to precisely match 1940s USN specs, which is even heavier than the lining of our standard N-1. We cannot say too much about the use of the original, double-faced alpaca, which is what provides the warmth associated with the vintage N-1 Jackets and requires vintage machinery found in Japan; at best, single-faced alpaca is present on cheaper look-alike costume-grade N-1 Jackets and Buzz Rickson's does not make costumes.
- Two external slash pockets
- A meticulous copy of a 1944 zipper in brass has been custom made at extreme expense, precisely matching vintage examples, including all-cotton zipper tape that is folded and glued at the base with no plastic or heat sealing
- Button-front wind flap protector located in front of zipper closure
- Custom manufacturing of the correct, two-ply, worsted wool-knit cuffs in Olive Drab, hidden up inside the sleeves to protect from wear
- Gusseted armpit construction with steel grommet vents
- Drawstring cords at jacket bottom to seal out the wind
- Throat latch that, when fastened, will help thwart chilling winds from entering the jacket neck area
Even-numbered sizes 36-46. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Imported from Japan
Buzz Rickson N-1 Deck Jacket, U. S. Navy, Heavyweight, Khaki, Non-Stenciled HPA Edition
SIZING TIPS
About this Style: It is important to keep in mind that this jacket style does have an alpaca lining, thus the external chest measures listed here are just that – EXTERNAL measures – and don’t account for the slightly lesser amount of room on the inside of the jacket. Likewise, if you plan to wear heavy layers under this jacket style, that application will further subtract from the room inside the jacket. However, the N-1 is a very easy-wearing style that creates very few sizing issues for the overwhelming majority of individuals. About 70% of our customers prefer an N-1 to fit 6" - 7” larger than their chest measure, 5% prefer it to fit 5" - 6" larger than their chest measure, while the remaining 25% prefer to have a fit 8" - 9” larger than their chest measure.
Tip 1: Follow the instructions entitled “How to Use Product Measures to Obtain a Good Fit” listed under the PRODUCT MEASUREMENTS tab for this product. After finding no substantive conflicts with your body measures obtained from the tab entitled BODY MEASURING, order this garment with no less than 6”of room in excess of your chest measure if you prefer a trim fit throughout, thus if you have a 40” chest circumference measure, order size 40. It is best advised for the vast majority of customers to order a size that directly equates to their chest measure: Chest measures 40”, order size 40. That size selection will maintain the 6" - 7” of room between the jacket and the wearer. If a roomier or longer fit is desired, then order the next available size after reviewing all relative measures that pertain to that size. Those whose chest measure falls on an odd number, such as 41” or 43”, will have to determine if they want less room or more room when selecting a jacket size.
Tip 2: Please note that your chest circumference measure is not necessarily the labeled size you wear in another jacket you may own from a different maker or even the same maker, so please take the time to obtain your true chest circumference measure so as to compare to our chart of jacket measures; this will enable us to perform a better job getting you the right size and minimize your chances in having to deal with the hassle and cost of exchanges.
Please ask us for fitting advice if in doubt.
Tip 3: Individuals who prefer looser fits and/or those with a waist measure that is nearly equal to or greater than their chest circumference measure may jump up one size in this jacket for comfort and desired fit (when we refer to waist measure we do not mean your trouser size; we mean the actual circumference measure of your waistline at its widest point). If you are unsure of the size to order we will assist you; please contact us with the following information: Height, waist circumference measure, chest circumference measure, body weight, and type of clothing to be worn beneath the jacket most of the time, as well as the type of fit you prefer: Trim, roomy or oversized.
Buzz Rickson N-1 Deck Jacket, U. S. Navy, Heavyweight, Khaki, Non-Stenciled HPA Edition
PRODUCT MEASUREMENTS
The following table provides actual product measures. These measures are provided as an aid because, in conjunction with the information found under the SIZING TIPS tab for each product, they can sometimes be very useful when comparing the measurements from this garment to the measures of your body; however, acting as an armchair tailor should be done with caution, as well as with knowledge of other important areas of fit that are not displayed here. Armchair tailors frequently fail to take into account other significant elements that impact fit; following the information found under the SIZING TIPS tab for each garment on this web site is strongly suggested, which can be very useful in supplanting or supplementing the listed measures below.
Our measures were derived from averaging measurements taken from many garments of the same size from each specific size in the range of any given product, thus the measures provided are representative for each size but they may not be exactly what you will receive. Some fluctuation in size is normal and to be expected, especially in these garments that have been manufactured on the bench by hand. Size fluctuations are rarely encountered in the width measures and more typically encountered in length measures, and particularly with respect to leather jackets and jackets with knit cuffs and waistbands. Fluctuations in width measures are very rare, and when they are encountered they are typically insignificant: 1/8” – ¼”. Normal fluctuations in sleeve and/or body length + /- a ½” are more common but still rare, and such fluctuations in that increment range are within spec. for jackets of the same size and style.
| 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chest width | 21.5" | 22.5" | 23.5" | 24.5" | 25.5" | 26.5" | |
| Shoulder width | 18" | 19" | 19.5" | 20.5" | 21" | 22" | |
| Arm length | 24" | 25" | 26" | 26" | 27" | 27" | |
| Back length | 26" | 27" | 27.75" | 28" | 29" | 29" |
How to Use the Product Measures to Obtain a Good Fit:
1) Using the measurements listed for this product and information found under the tab entitled MEASURING GARMENTS to understand our measuring technique, please double the chest measure to obtain the total external chest circumference of this garment. For example: If the chest measure listed for size 40 is 23.5”, doubling this measure yields a 47” external chest circumference.
2) Measure your chest circumference as per the tab on this web site specifically addressing BODY MEASURING, then compare your chest measure to the chest measure of this product.
3) Many jackets are cut in such a way that the wearer requires no less than 4” of room in the jacket for a sleek fit that is also comfortable, while other jacket styles require the wearer to have more than 8” of room. If your chest circumference is 40”, a product with a 23.5” chest width has a 47” external chest circumference and would provide 7” of external room in this scenario (chest measures 40”, external chest measure of jacket is 47”, thus 7” of external room would be realized).
4) Again, using the measurements listed for this product and information under the MEASURING GARMENTS tab to understand our measuring technique, add half of the shoulder width to the arm length. For example: If the shoulder width is 19.5” and the arm length is 26”, adding 9.75” (half the shoulder width) to 26” (the arm length) will yield an overall sleeve length of 35.75” in this product.
5) Measure your overall sleeve length following the instructions on this web site under the tab specifically addressing BODY MEASURING, then compare your overall sleeve length to this product.
6) If desired, repeat the measuring comparisons for back length.
7) Compare your body measures to the listed garment measures and follow the advice found under the SIZING TIPS tab to obtain a good fit.
IMPORTANT: Because you need room in a garment for comfort, garments with a 44” chest circumference are NOT a size 44, nor are they intended for anyone with a 44” chest circumference. Tee shirts and thermal shirts tend to have the most body-hugging fits of our product offerings because these were originally intended to be undergarments, thus these can be ordered to stretch to fit if that is how you wish to wear such garments. Other shirts, sweatshirts, sweaters, jackets, etc. will all have some amount of room incorporated in their designs, thus these will all measure larger than your actual chest measure by varying degrees.
Sometimes-Problematic Way to Determine a Good Fit:
Due to differences in how even near-identical garments are cut by different manufacturers, it is not necessarily a good idea to compare the listed measures of this product to the measures of an existing, similar product in your wardrobe to determine the correct size to order in this product. Though such comparisons can indeed work some of the time, and maybe even most of the time, vast experience with and knowledge of the products we market has proven such practices will sometimes fail. This inaccurate measuring methodology doesn't factor in other key variables of fit relative to you and the garment that includes: Armhole opening, shoulder slope, high-point shoulder, high chest, width of sleeves at all points including the all-important elbow, waist measure, and the thickness, plumpness, and rigidity of the material the garment is made from, naming just some variables influencing fit that do not appear on any list of measurements for a garment or that a customer is likely to account for.
It is best to compare your actual body measures to the listed measures of this product AND follow our advice listed under the SIZING TIPS tab specific to this product to obtain a good fit in this style.
A Good Fit:
This is highly subjective - what one person may think is too big, another may think fits perfectly. Some garments are cut quite generously and others are cut quite trimly. If comparing measurements of one of our products to another you may own, some individuals will surely find that none or maybe only one area of measure is commonly shared or remotely close to being the same. Ultimately, chest measure is the most important area to properly fit, then all other areas of measure will have to fall into place. And some individuals who are extremely tall may find that body and/or sleeve length are more important to accommodate than even chest measure.
It is best to compare your actual body measures to the listed measures of this product AND follow our advice listed under the SIZING TIPS tab specific to this product to obtain a good fit in this style.
We strive to create a crisp fit between our products and the customer, and not a loose, sloppy look. If you prefer your clothing to fit more loosely, then we will do our best to work with you to that end, though, by the very nature of our product designs and fits it may not be possible to duplicate the slack looks found in many mainstream clothing brands even if you go up one or two sizes in our products.
