Buzz Rickson brand gained fame from making the finest copies of the legendary USAF MA-1 Flying Jacket, beginning in 1994, and it was the obsessive perfection of this MA-1 that provided the impetus for acclaimed novelist William Gibson to make the Buzz Rickson MA-1 , albeit in incorrect black, a co-character in his groundbreaking novel "Pattern Recognition."  The serendipitous creation of a 10th anniversary black MA-1 from Buzz Rickson's coincided with the debut of "Pattern Recognition," and the success of the first black MA-1 for Buzz Rickson's gave way to the William Gibson Collection in 2007, and since then the black, Tailored-Cut MA-1 (available on this website) has become a top seller around the world.  Due to customer requests, we now bring you a similar Tailored-Cut MA-1 from the Buzz Rickson William Gibson Collection, but in the original USAF sage green with corresponding sage green lining, just as it was in the original spec. from the 1950's, but without the USAF decal on the shoulder sleeve.

Buzz Rickson brand takes other extraordinary steps to recreate this classic jacket style in the exact, same manner of original production.  The nylon twill used in the lining of the original garments is a lighter type from that used on the exterior (because the USAF reasoned that the lining would be subject to less wear and tear), and indeed Buzz Rickson has recreated both weights of nylon twill for their reproduction, but supreme, museum-grade authenticity does not stop there.  The original nylon twill, being produced in large runs by various manufacturers, would also reflect slight color shifts in each dye lot produced - nothing outlandish, mind you, but noticeable enough when you hold one roll of fabric against another from a different dye lot or different manufacturer.  To counter this unavoidable color deviation, the USAF specs. stipulated that a jacket had to me made from fabric that was entirely from the same dye lot, except for small pieces of the jacket such as the interior pocket welting.  Astute observers of the original garments are aware of this detail, and so are the jacket masters at Buzz Rickson, thus Buzz Rickson brand goes the extraordinary extra mile and expense and has two purposely different shades of nylon twill produced (albeit subtly different shades), so that the interior pocket welting does indeed appear to be subtly different in shade from the rest of the jacket lining, exactly duplicating a normal result of true, mass production in a reproduction garment that has nothing in common with mass production and is crafted in small batches with love.

This Tailored-Cut MA-1 is offered for those who prefer something slimmer and less bulky than the original MA-1 Flying Jacket design, whereby the armhole has been raised higher, the sleeves further tapered, and the body slimmed down vs. the full cut of the original MA-1 Flying Jacket design.    Other than the tailored fit, this MA-1 Flying Jacket is replete with all of the authenticity found in a vintage example of the late 1950's and which Buzz Rickson's is world renowned for making. 

Please note the following features and details found on this Buzz Rickson masterpiece:

• Copy of original maker’s label design produced on a vintage shuttle loom, not a modern projectile loom.

• Custom manufacturing of the correct weight and weave sage green nylon outer shell and inner lining using vintage looms and precisely matching 1957 USAF specs. and treated to repel water.

• Modified tailored fit with higher armholes, narrowed shoulders, tailored body and tapered sleeves.

• Correct USAF-spec. inner lining of warm wool fiber filling sandwiched between the outer and inner shell lining.

•Two snap-down exterior pockets lined with warm 80/20 wool-rayon fabric precisely matching 1957 USAF specs.

•Two snap-down interior pockets lined with heavy 100% cotton-twill fabric precisely matching 1957 USAF specs.

• Exact copy of the heavy-duty 1953 Crown zippers on sleeve pocket and jacket front, with zip tape made of 100% cotton HBT fabric, not incorrect poly-cotton.

• Leather pull tab designed for easy functioning with gloves

• Heavy wind flap protector located behind zipper closure.

• Correct, USAF-spec. leather pull tab on sleeve pocket

• Custom manufacturing of the correct, two-ply, 100% worsted-wool knit collar, cuffs and waist skirt in sage green

• Heavy, parachute-harness nylon in sage green correctly sewn to left front chest for attaching oxygen mask retainer clip.

• Two snap-down tabs (one on each breast) for retaining headset and microphone wiring leads, exactly as on original 1957 MA-1's.

• Zippered pocket on left sleeve outfitted with four pen/pencil slots and two anti-puncture pencil caps made of USAF-spec. brass.

• Assembly using vintage sewing machines

Even sizes 34-44 Regular or 34 - 44.   Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Buzz Rickson goods are imported from Japan

Every distinctive, vintage styling feature from the past has been deftly reproduced on this Buzz Rickson's masterpiece work shirt, not the least being the heavy-duty, mock-twist, all-cotton chambray fabric in a classic 1930's fleck of brown and white that's produced on original narrow looms from the era and sewn with vintage sewing machines.  This is rugged and stylish American history at its best, and it is also going to look fabulous when worn because it is cut to flatter the body, unlike the ultra-loose styles so often encountered everywhere today.  And it transcends fashion because it's traditional styling at its best, which will also outwear similar shirts you are familiar with.  For the ultimate in style, match this shirt with a pair of Sugar Cane selvage-denim jeans or Buzz Rickson's chinos! Quantities are very limited.

Take note of these authentic features and details found only on a work shirt of this pedigree:

• Placket-front closure

• Collar stand for crisper appearance

• Vintage-style open-top pocket

• Double-stitched seams for superior strength

• Reinforced shoulder yoke for greater durability at this crucial abrasion area

• Pencil slot on left pocket

• Custom manufacturing of correct brown, bakelite-style buttons

• Custom manufacturing of the correct all-cotton, heavy-weight mock-twist chambray fabric on the original shuttle looms employed back in the 1930's, including color matching to the classic brown-and-white fleck typical of the era

• Selvage edge on gussets at shirttail side seams

• All-cotton thread employed throughout construction

• Exact copy of the original-style rayon-on-cotton labels

• True vintage fit for flattering appearance

• One-wash finish for greater softness out of the box

Sizes available: 14 1/2 Small - 18 1/2 XXL.   Please note:  This is the revised fit of a Buzz Rickson’s shirt of the same name that was offered before the fall of 2012.  The major design change is that the armholes are slightly higher and the sleeves are more tapered in the upper arm than the previous style. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Buzz Rickson’s products are imported from Japan

Every distinctive, vintage styling feature from the past has been deftly reproduced on this Buzz Rickson's masterpiece work shirt, not the least being the heavy-duty, mock-twist, all-cotton chambray fabric in a classic 1930's fleck of black and white that's produced on original narrow looms from the era and sewn with vintage sewing machines.  This is rugged and stylish American history at its best, and it is also going to look fabulous when worn because it is cut to flatter the body, unlike the ultra-loose styles so often encountered everywhere today.  And it transcends fashion because it's traditional styling at its best, which will also outwear similar shirts you are familiar with.  For the ultimate in style, match this shirt with a pair of Sugar Cane selvage-denim jeans or Buzz Rickson's chinos! Quantities are very limited.

Take note of these authentic features and details found only on a work shirt of this pedigree:

• Placket-front closure

• Collar stand for crisper appearance

• Vintage-style open-top pocket

• Double-stitched seams for superior strength

• Reinforced shoulder yoke for greater durability at this crucial abrasion area

• Pencil slot on left pocket

• Custom manufacturing of correct brown, bakelite-style buttons

• Custom manufacturing of the correct all-cotton, heavy-weight mock-twist chambray fabric on the original shuttle looms employed back in the 1930's, including color matching to the classic black-and-white fleck typical of the era

• Selvage edge on gussets at shirttail side seams

• All-cotton thread employed throughout construction

• Exact copy of the original-style rayon-on-cotton labels

• True vintage fit for flattering appearance

• One-wash finish for greater softness out of the box

Sizes available: 14 1/2 Small - 18 1/2 XXL.   Please note:  This is the revised fit of a Buzz Rickson’s shirt of the same name that was offered before the fall of 2012.  The major design change is that the armholes are slightly higher and the sleeves are more tapered in the upper arm than the previous style. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Buzz Rickson’s products are imported from Japan

This is an exclusive item made only for us!

The U. S. Navy developed and used many different styles of cold-weather gear and clothing during the 1940s.  A sailor’s duties are very often performed in the most challenging and harsh weather conditions while at sea, thus clothing needed to be durable, warm and functional.  Winter jackets, commonly referred to as “Deck Jackets,” became the most cherished clothing articles of sailors during WWII and among collectors today.  Most of the deck jackets used in WWII evolved from a blue zip-front design that was very similar in appearance to the U. S. Army’s Winter Combat Jacket (Tanker Jacket).  By late 1943, the second version of this Deck Jacket design was being phased out of production and an entirely new design was being brought into use.

This all-new jacket took into account the lessons learned from two hard years of warfare at sea.  Though still manufactured with the same dark blue heavy, corded-cotton outer shell as on earlier examples, alpaca fur was now used as the lining material and the torso length grew longer for greater protection from the elements.  The knit collar was replaced with an alpaca fur collar, and also gone were the knit waist bands, exposed knit cuffs and patch pockets of the old jackets, all of which tended to snag on various objects or parts of a ship and cause tearing.  A new cuff design incorporated the knit cuff hidden up inside the sleeve, thus keeping the knit from snagging while still keeping out the cold wind, and the frontal jacket closure was now facilitated by a zipper as well as buttons.  A drawstring at the jacket’s bottom edges kept the wind out more effectively than the old knit band, all the while eliminating the snagging problem associated with knit bands, and gusseted armpit areas with eyelet vents provided greater freedom of movement and rapid drying of built-up perspiration.  Produced in very small numbers and but for a brief period, this new design was quickly superseded by a second version manufactured in a light olive drab color (now commonly called khaki) of the same heavy corded fabric.  The fabric color was changed from blue to this light shade of olive drab to better enable camouflaging of USN personnel both at sea and on landing operations.

Buzz Rickson’s took their ever-popular, adroitly re-created N-1 Khaki Deck Jacket and introduced it in an even-heavier version. Though the original color of the N-1 when new was intended to be the equivalent to the U. S. Army QM Olive Drab Shade #2, in actuality this color varied significantly and could span shades from green or close to khaki tan; once faded from exposure to the elements and washing, the lighter and closer to khaki tan it became.  Buzz Rickson’s has matched the color of their reproduction to duplicate one of the more bronze-shade jackets.

We, as Buzz Rickson’s N. American agent, requested to have made exclusively for us, beginning in the fall of 2014, this same jacket Buzz Rickson’s is famous for, but without the “USN” stencil in black on the left breast; other than the deletion of the “USN “stencil, this is the same jacket type issued to WWII sailors.

The N-1-style Deck Jacket is an all-American classic that looks as great today as it did in 1944, and it functions with many different clothing applications - surely this will fast become a favorite item in your wardrobe.  Please note of these authentic features:

• Exact copy of original USN contract label design printed on cotton fabric

• Exact copy of the original DEMOTEX-ED moth-proofing labels often found on the alpaca linings of vintage jackets have been reproduced using vintage shuttle looms

• Custom manufacturing of the correct, heavy, corded-cotton outer shell (this is heavier and even more durable than the outer shell on our standard N-1) to precisely match USN specs. and dyed a bronze shade of khaki-like Olive Drab

• Cotton-thread construction

• Custom manufacturing of the correct double-faced, brown-hued alpaca fur-and-wool lining to precisely match 1940s USN specs, which is even heavier than the lining of our standard N-1. We cannot say too much about the use of the original, double-faced alpaca, which is what provides the warmth associated with the vintage N-1 Jackets and requires vintage machinery found in Japan; at best, single-faced alpaca is present on cheaper look-alike costume-grade N-1 Jackets and Buzz Rickson's does not make costumes.

• Two external slash pockets

• A meticulous copy of a 1944 zipper in brass has been custom made at extreme expense, precisely matching vintage examples, including all-cotton zipper tape that is folded and glued at the base with no plastic or heat sealing

• Button-front wind flap protector located in front of zipper closure

• Custom manufacturing of the correct, two-ply, worsted wool-knit cuffs in Olive Drab, hidden up inside the sleeves to protect from wear

• Gusseted armpit construction with steel grommet vents

• Drawstring cords at jacket bottom to seal out the wind

• Throat latch that, when fastened, will help thwart chilling winds from entering the jacket neck area

Even-numbered sizes 36-46.   Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Imported from Japan

The U. S. Navy developed and used many different styles of cold-weather gear and clothing during the 1940s. A sailor’s duties are very often performed in the most challenging and harsh weather conditions while at sea, thus clothing needed to be durable, warm and functional. Winter jackets, commonly referred to as “Deck Jackets,” became the most cherished clothing articles of sailors during WWII and among collectors today. Most of the deck jackets used in WWII evolved from a blue zip-front design that was very similar in appearance to the U. S. Army’s Winter Combat Jacket (Tanker Jacket). By late 1943, the second version of this Deck Jacket design was being phased out of production and an entirely new design was being brought into use:  the N-1.

This all-new jacket took into account the lessons learned from two hard years of warfare at sea. Though still manufactured with the same dark blue corded-cotton outer shell as on earlier examples, alpaca fur was now used as the lining material and the torso length grew longer for greater protection from the elements. The knit collar was replaced with an alpaca-fur collar, and also gone were the knit waist bands, exposed knit cuffs and patch pockets of the old jackets, all of which tended to snag on various objects or parts of a ship and cause tearing. A new cuff design incorporated the knit cuff hidden up inside the sleeve, thus keeping the knit from snagging while still keeping out the cold wind, and the frontal jacket closure was now facilitated by a zipper as well as buttons. A drawstring at the jacket’s bottom edges kept the wind out more effectively than the old knit band, all the while eliminating the snagging problem associated with knit bands, and gusseted armpit areas with eyelet vents provided greater freedom of movement and rapid drying of built-up perspiration. Produced in very small numbers and but for a brief period, this new design was quickly superceded by a second version manufactured in a light olive drab color (now commonly called khaki) of the same heavy, corded fabric. The fabric color was changed from blue to this shade of olive drab to better enable camouflaging of USN personnel both at sea and on landing operations. This newer-colored version of the winter deck jacket was available in limited numbers by the spring of 1944 and photo documentation clearly reveals some sailors, including Rear Admiral A. D. Struble onboard the command ship USS AUGUSTA, outfitted with this jacket style during the D-Day landings in Normandy, France on 6 June 1944.

The deck jacket was modified again after WWII, with the most notable difference being the change in color from light olive drab to a dark olive green.  Further modifications were made to the design before being completely phased out in the 1960s, thus making the N-1-style deck jacket the longest serving in the U. S. Navy, and possible the best remembered. The N-1-style Deck Jacket is an all-American classic that looks as great today as it did in 1944, and it functions with many different clothing applications - surely this will fast become a favorite item in your wardrobe. Scorn the cookie-cutter look of “mall” jackets and grab a piece of 20th century American history that combines style with durability and utility.

This Buzz Rickson’s USN khaki N-1-style Deck Jacket copy superbly captures all of the nuances and features found on a vintage original example from 1944. Take note of these authentic features:

• Exact copy of original USN contract label design printed on cotton fabric

• Exact duplication of the original black stencil property mark “USN” applied to left chest

• Custom manufacturing of the correct, heavy, corded-cotton outer shell to precisely match USN specs. and dyed a light shade of khaki-like Olive Drab

• Cotton-thread construction

• Custom manufacturing of the correct double-faced, grey-hued alpaca fur-and-wool lining to precisely match 1940s USN specs. We cannot say too much about the use of the original, double-faced alpaca, which is what provides the warmth associated with the vintage N-1 Jackets and requires vintage machinery found in Japan; at best, single-faced alpaca is present on cheaper look-alike costume-grade N-1 Jackets and Buzz Rickson's does not make costumes.

• Two external slash pockets

• Vintage-style 1943 brass CONMATIC zipper

• Button-front wind flap protector located in front of zipper closure

• Custom manufacturing of the correct, two-ply, worsted-wool knit cuffs in Olive Drab, hidden up inside the sleeves to protect from wear

• Gusseted-armpit construction with eyelet vents

• Drawstring cords at jacket bottom to seal out the wind

Sizes:  XS - XXL.   Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Buzz Rickson’s goods are imported from Japan

The U. S. Navy had been requisitioning the iconic U. S. Army's Olive Drab Field Jacket (a. k. a. M-41) from 1942-44, when the Army determined in 1943 that no more would be produced in light of the jacket style's shortcomings and the new M-43 Field Jacket coming into production.  While the Army's Olive Drab Field Jacket was deemed inadequate for the primary combat arms of infantry and artillery and other field units, the needs of U. S. Navy ship and beach personnel were markedly different, and for these personnel the Olive Drab Field Jacket was seen essentially as good, and so the Navy developed its own version of this jacket style that incorporated specific modifications best suited for its needs, while maintaining the same overall style.  

The new USN Field Jacket style was procured as the N-4 in late 1944, though it is yet to be positively determined if any N-4 jackets ever arrived in combat theaters before the end of combat actions of WWII in 1945.  But the N-4 positively was issued stateside before the war's end and it continued to serve well after WWII.  The most noticeable differences between the N-4 and the Amy's Olive Drab Field Jacket is the color, which is dark Olive Drab shade 7 for the N-4, but close inspection also reveals the N-4 lacks the epaulets, bi-swing back, gusseted armpits, and belt adjusters at the hips that are found on the Army's Field Jacket, as well as having "U. S. N." printed in black on the left breast.  

Buzz Rickson's is, for the first time, now offering a masterpiece copy of the U. S. Navy's N-4 Utility Jacket; as usual, they have spared no expense and again recreated a classic jacket style as if it had to pass U. S. Navy standardized testing, which includes custom manufacturing all component parts to the original specs. using now-outdated vintage machinery.  It is Buzz Rickson's attention to detail and historical purity that separates a true uniform item intended to function in adverse, challenging conditions from a costume possessing only basic characteristics of resemblance to the original item:  the U. S. military wears uniforms, while trick-or-treaters wear costumes.

Please note these authentic features found only on a Buzz Rickson's masterpiece and original-issue N-4 Field Jackets of the U. S. Navy:

•Exact copy of contractor label printed on off-white cotton in neck area.

•Correct interlining of collar and lapels for proper shape and durability, with reinforcing stitching on collar back.

•Custom production of the original-style urea buttons, not cheap plastic buttons.

•Custom manufacturing of the correct 5.5-ounce cotton poplin produced on vintage looms of the 1940’s and dyed to a correct shade of Olive Drab 7 using the old-style dyes.

•Custom manufacturing of the correct wool-and-cotton flannel lining produced on vintage looms of the 1940’s and dyed to a typical brownish shade of Olive Drab using the old-style dyes.

•Genuine bar tacks on all major stress points as per the USN spec., not just cheap look-a-like stitching.

•Two slash-style, internally hung pockets correctly lined in the same flannel as the jackets's lining.

•Exacting reproduction of a late-war Conmar brass zipper on cotton HBT zipper tape that is rolled and glued at the base with no plastic heat seal, exactly as done in 1944.

• Correct U. S. N. stamping in black on left breast.

•Precise pattern grading matching the exact measurements employed for production of the original N-4 jackets, including such critical areas as neck drop, shoulder slope, armhole opening, shoulder width, etc.  Because of this uncompromising attention to authenticity in fit and fabrics, this Buzz Rickson’s N-4 will fit, drape, function, protect,  and look exactly as did the original N-4 Jackets.

Due to the original, generous fit of the design, we can comfortably fit up to 46" chest measures.   Please do NOT attempt to guess at sizing; please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Imported from Japan

Developed in 1941 for the USMC as part of a two-piece coat/trouser suit for combat and work, replacing the denim suits of earlier issue, the 1941-Pattern Herringbone Twill (HBT) Utility Trousers became the definitive combat trouser for the USMC in WWII.  The original design featured external patch pockets on the front thighs, which were replaced with internally hung pockets in a later design that first is seen in combat in early 1944, thus the first-model trouser is far more rare and the only correct HBT trouser for the USMC prior to 1944, though these early trousers can still be seen in use in 1945.  

Buzz Rickson brand is the only current manufacturer of the first-model trousers on the market at this time, and they have duplicated these trousers to their usual high level of quality and authenticity, including having the all-cotton, light-shade HBT fabric made on vintage looms and sewing the trousers using all-cotton thread on vintage sewing machines, with all stress points correctly bar tacked for extra strength.  Additionally, the trousers are outfitted with black-lacquered USMC buttons and they have been given an industrial cold-water rinse to minimize shrinkage and provide greater softness and a look of vintage appeal rather than a rigid, out-of-the-box new look.  Buzz Rickson military trousers are intended for hard, active use and long life; these are uniform items, NOT costumery.

Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Buzz Rickson’s goods are imported from Japan

Developed in the prewar era exclusively for the submarine service by the U. S. Navy, these woolen coats were as few as there were submariners at the time and the survival rate for these coats was even lower due, possibly, to being so tasty to munching insects, nicely warm, and not at all military looking, thus enabling them to easily "walk away" when sailors left the service.  Today, such coats are beyond rare and will fetch significant money among collectors, but you now can have a new one in your size to enjoy, thanks to Buzz Rickson's.

The design is very simple, yet it is its functional simplicity that makes it so appealing.  The wool is charcoal in color, which is another surprise for U. S. Navy clothing, and it is a chunky, flecked fabric with a subtle, wide-weave herringbone pattern.  There is no lining in this coat as the intention was for use both on its own and with multiple layers, but all internal seams are fully covered in binding tape as one would expect for quality clothing from the 1930's.  Not excessively heavy, but still robust enough on its own for temperatures in the upper 30's F.; thanks to the full design, it can be worn with significant underclothing for lower temperatures.  

Grab a slice of old-school winter gear from the U. S. Navy's prewar "silent service" in this Buzz Rickson's unique design rarity.  

• Button-front closure
• Custom manufacturing of the correct urea buttons, not plastic
• Custom manufacturing of the correct heavy worsted-wool using vintage machinery
• Assembly using vintage sewing machines
• Pocket flaps and interior cuffs are backed with all-cotton black cotton exactly as found on the original jacket style and interior seams are taped
• Vintage-style label produced on vintage shuttle looms
• DRY CLEAN ONLY

Even sizes 36-44 Regular (these run full and can fit larger than tagged, thus a 46" chest measure can be comfortably accommodated).   Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Imported from Japan

Eschew the soccer-mom look and grab something that actually fits well and is made of high-quality fabric meant to hold up over years of wear and laundering!  

Buzz Rickson's premium, vintage-style, all-cotton athletic sweatpants are made from medium-weight, 100% cotton fabricated on 1920's-vintage loop-wheeling machines, styled with all the correct features found on the old sweatpants and cut to hug the body in a flattering form without bulk, just as the vintage originals did.  Limited quantities available.  Take note of these authentic vintage styling features:

• Custom manufacturing of the medium-weight, all-cotton fleece fabricated on vintage loop-wheeling looms
• Vintage wash
• USAF Langley Air Force Base logo silk screened to the left upper thigh in a muted, non-plastisol ink to duplicate the look and feel of vintage ink types
• One side-entry pocket per leg
• Heavy-weight, all-cotton draw ties at each cuff opening and waist
• Exact copy of the original-style rayon-on-cotton labels
• True vintage fit for flattering appearance, not a sloppy, relaxed fit with saggy rear and baggy legs

A note on loop-wheeling looms:

Loop-wheeling looms are special machines that were once common decades ago and able to weave even rows of small loops of yarn on the inner fabric side rather than the typical fleece we see on contemporary sweatshirt and pant interiors that have much more of a solid, flat appearance.  These old looms also can only weave one set diameter per loom; this means the factory needs a different loom for each size - very expensive - which is why you hardly ever see true tube construction in modern-day garments.  Tube construction ensures true shape is maintained, not only during its construction, but during its life of wear.  This is the proper way to make a sweatshirt; in the good old days, the proper way was the only way.  It's cheap and easy to make shirts from a flat piece of cloth and most customers would never notice the difference, though they may wonder why their not-so-cheap sweatshirt seemed to lose its shape after only a few washes - but now you know.

Sizes:  Small, Medium, Large, & XL.   Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.

Imported from Japan