Buzz Rickson 1930’s CCC Mackinaw Coat
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The Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) was a work-relief program developed as part of FDR’s “New Deal,” and established in 1933 under the Emergency Conservation Work Act. The CCC was largely responsible for working on government outdoor projects, such as creating and maintaining national parks; many of the sites and trails we enjoy in the USA to this day in our national parks are directly attributed to the workers of the CCC. Although a civilian organization, CCC clothing was under direct responsibility of the U. S. Army Quartermaster Corps, hence all contracts for clothing were procured and developed via the U. S. Army QMC.
Original coats of this style were typically produced in U. S. Army Olive Drab wool, but a rare few were produced in navy blue, and so Buzz Rickson’s has elected to offer the rarest color on an extremely rare design. This coat's design was one of noted popularity at the time, often called a double-Mackinaw due to the double layers of wool that cover the front chest and rear yoke and back, making this extra warm and extra durable in these areas. Quality lives on in re-creating this gem from the days of extreme hardship and challenge in American history, and Buzz Rickson’s deftly recreated a beefy, 36-ounce melton-wool fabric using vintage machinery to both loom and assemble this fabulous work coat.
Warm and durable enough for most fall and winter outdoor activities, and uniquely styled from the “good old days,” this Buzz Rickson’s masterpiece is sure to serve you as well as it did those poor-yet-hardworking men of the CCC. Please note these authentic features found only on a Buzz Rickson’s coat of this pedigree:
- Button-front closure
- Unlined interior with cotton-twill binding tape on all exposed seams
- Custom manufacturing of vintage-style black urea buttons, not cheap plastic
- Custom manufacturing of the correct 36-ounce melton-wool fabric using vintage machinery, not modern projectile looms
- Coat assembly using vintage sewing machinery
- Exact copy of the original-style label found on the vintage coat now retained in the archives of Buzz Rickson’s. The label is woven with nomenclature printed in typical U. S. Army fashion. The contract is dated 1938, and clearly indicates the fact that the CCC was outfitted via the U. S. Army, as evidenced by the contract number beginning with “W-669-QM” (War Dept. Phila. Quartermaster)
- DRY CLEAN ONLY
Even sizes 36-44 Regular. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Buzz Rickson goods are imported from Japan
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Buzz Rickson 1943 U. S. Army Type III Service Shoes
This product is presently no longer in production.
The U. S. Army Type III Service Shoe was accepted by the Quartermaster Corps in June 1943 under Boston Quartermaster Depot Specification 110. This new shoe was manufactured from leather uppers with the flesh side of the animal, in this case cowhide, reversed, hence one of the nicknames for these shoes being “roughouts” since the rough, fleshy portion of the leather skin was on the outside, and the smooth, finished portion was on the inside (not to be confused with the similar shoes already on issue to the USN and USMC prior to 1943). Authorized and intended strictly for use in the field to be worn in conjunction with the M-38 Dismounted Troops canvas lace-up leggings; the reversed flesh-out leather required no polishing and would not look all that unsoldierly if scuffed and soiled vs. the Types I & II Service Shoes made of smooth finished leather that had been in use for field, garrison and service dress use up until the point when combat troops began receiving the first Type III Service Shoes in 1943.
Once the Type III Service Shoes materialized in sufficient quantities, which wasn’t until 1944, the older Types I and II Service Shoes were rarely worn in the field and were relegated then for garrison or service dress only. The Type III Service Shoes featured a heel and full sole manufactured from composite or reclaimed rubber (recycled from auto/truck tires, etc., due to the shortage of rubber during the war), steel shank for strong arch support and better retention of shoe shape, leather uppers made from hides that were chrome tanned with a heavy vegetable re-tanning, no toe box or toe cap as found on Types I and II Service Shoes, and the quarter was attached to the vamp with a reinforcing rivet in addition to four rows of heavy stitching; the rivet was deleted from all subsequent Type III Service Shoe production in the summer of 1944. The heels were hand nailed to the rubber soles and the soles were sewn and also hand nailed at key stress areas. Welting leather was specified to be of an extremely high quality that would join the shoe to the sole via the famous Goodyear welting system, which is considered the finest welting system ever devised. The Type III Service Shoes were, upon issue to the troops, usually dubbed or rubbed down with a waterproofing grease that darkened them substantially.
Type III's had a relatively short production life, lasting approximately 18 months before they were fully phased out in favor of the Combat Boots that were produced simultaneously with the Type III's for quite some time. During the period of issue of the Type III's, it was not at all uncommon to see them worn without the M-38 Dismounted Troops Canvas Leggings; this was particularly a practice in the Pacific theater and among personnel of the USAAF whose duties did not require the wearing of leggings.
Due to the rugged construction, great comfort, overall smart looks and relatively cheap and ready supply, Type III Service Shoes were part of a substantial post-war consumer market where the shoes were widely sold for work wear, hunting, fishing, and other casual outdoor activities. However, the shoes achieved iconic status largely via their appearance in the all-time-classic WWII PoW adventure film drama made in 1963, "The Great Escape," as worn by the "King of Cool" himself, legendary actor Steve Mc Queen in his leading role as the charismatic, wisecracking, cocky USAAF fighter pilot Virgil Hilts. Hilts sported Army khaki trousers worn with a cut-down sweatshirt and vintage A-2 leather aviator's jacket all the while therapeutically bouncing a baseball off the concrete walls of the "cooler" into his baseball-mitted hand in between persistent schemes to break out of the prison camp, only to repeat the process again upon recapture. It was this film and Mc Queen’s “Hilts” character that fueled enormous interest again in the Type III Service Shoes that reached fanatical proportions in Japan.
This fanatical interest is what largely instigated Buzz Rickson’s to begin production of the Type III Service Shoes to the same pedigree of quality and depth of detail encountered on the vintage shoes from WWII. Years later, the Type III Service Shoes began to be reproduced by a variety of companies in the USA, the manufacture of which was almost entirely farmed out to low-end factories in developing nations and the market for which these shoes were made remains almost exclusively dominated by those performing various forms of WWII historical presentations, performances and/or re-enactments. Such shoes produced and sold at far lower price points than those made in Japan are intended to merely resemble the original Type III Service Shoves, whereas the Buzz Rickson’s Japanese-made examples are stitch-for-stitch masterful works of beauty and quality intended to perform to the same rugged standards as did the vintage shoes that won WWII, thus the premium-grade leather uppers can soldier on for years and years with new Lite Tread rubber hitting the ground, thanks to the complete re-soling services available from the factory. This is how quality footwear used to be in the USA back before the era of cheap disposability permeated society. All Buzz Rickson’s Type III Service Shoe production follows the same concept as employed by the U. S. Army Quartermaster Corps in the 1940's – make ‘em to last, make ‘em to be repaired, make ‘em for the duration!
Just as featured in Esquire magazine, Buzz Rickson’s Type III Service Shoes are produced exactly as the GI shoes were produced by legendary footwear manufacturers in the USA that have long since vanished: The uppers are manufactured from a beefy, chrome-tanned cowhide leather that is then vegetable tanned for no less than 12 weeks, after which the leather is sewn and hand lasted over a period of days to ensure maximum stretch and flexibility to the finished shoe, and finally the lasted uppers are sewn using the famous Goodyear storm welt to premium-grade welting leather - NEVER are soles vulcanized to the uppers or sewn in some cheap manner to duplicate the appearance of a true Goodyear welt at a sacrifice to comfort, quality and durability. The Buzz Rickson’s Type IIIs also feature precise custom-made copies of the famous 1940's Lite Tread rubber heels and soles, with the soles having the rare “chain” pattern that was produced but for short time during WWII and is the rarest tread pattern employed in the production of rubber soles for the military at that time. Today, no other Type III Service Shoes available in the USA offer the Lite Tread soles and heels.
These are classic pieces of rugged, smart-looking, comfortable footwear that never go out of style, whether worn with jeans, khaki’s or hiking shorts. Please take note of these high-quality features found on Buzz Rickson’s Type III Service Shoes:
• Size and U. S. Army inspector markings embossed in the leather foot bed as per the vintage exam
• Authentic U. S. Army BQD contract and spec. markings ink stamped onto the inside quarters of each shoe precisely matching the style and placement as found on the vintage examplle
• Authentic size marking ink stamped to the rubber soles as was often done during WWII to better enable easier, rapid identification of shoe size when storing or issuing the shoes by the quartermaster • Uppers sewn with authentic off-white thread
• Premium-grade, flesh-out leather uppers, chrome tanned, then vegetable tanned for greater durability and better fit when lasted and worn
• Premium-grade, veg-tanned leather welting attached using the Goodyear welting system with heavy-duty corded thread
• Quadruple-stitched quarters for durability as per the original spec. then bolstered by a reinforcing rivet as found on the early Type IIIs
• Custom-made all-cotton shoe laces that are heavily waxed for greater service life and moisture repellence, as per many of the WWII military shoe laces
• Hand-lasted uppers for better fit and comfort • Heavy, non-corrosive steel shank for heavy-duty support and longer shoe life and shape maintenance
• Custom-made precision copies of the famous Lite Tread rubber soles and heels from WWII; soles are sewn via the Goodyear welting system employed to make the shoes during WWII, then heels are nailed in place by hand and soles are reinforced with nails at key stress points, precisely matching the original spec.
• Premium-grade, veg-tanned leather insoles for better breathing of feet and moisture absorption. Current fittings available as measured on a Brannock device (this is the sizing instrument used to determine shoe size found in all true shoe stores): U. S. A. men’s sizes 8, 8 1/2, 9, 9 1/2, 10 & 10 1/2. If you plan on wearing a heavy rubber insole or prefer a looser fit, then the available size range will be smaller than indicated here.
Buzz Rickson’s goods are imported from Japan
Gift Certificates Available
*Price includes
U. S. customs duty,
processing fees, currency-
conversion fees and
shipping & insurance from
the manufacturer to the USA.
Click for Information and Photos
Buzz Rickson 1st-Model U. S. Army Tanker Jacket 1941
Officially designated on 10 February 1941 by the U. S. Army Quartermaster as JACKET, WINTER, COMBAT, P. Q. D. Spec. No. 26, this jacket was destined to become one of the most popular articles of clothing used by the G. I. in World War II, and was to gain post-war Hollywood film fame when worn by actor Brad Pitt in the 2014 release of "Fury."
The jacket formed part of a three-piece suit, including a matching helmet and bib-front trousers; this set was intended to be a winter suit for the Armored Forces of the U. S. Army, hence the jacket’s nickname that would make it famous – Tanker Jacket.
First-model jackets of P. Q. D. Spec. No. 26 featured open-top patch pockets and a double-faced cotton twill wind flap behind the zip closure, which was later replaced with a wool-backed wind flap. The revised Spec. No. 26A jackets are easily distinguished from first-model Spec. 26 jackets by having cotton-lined slash pockets and maintaining the wool-backed wind flap that appeared on later Spec. 26 jackets. While the Spec. 26A jackets were the most typical and dominant in production and use in WWII, the first-model Tanker Jackets of Spec. 26 are, by comparison, more unique looking, they have more history, having seen combat first in N. Africa as worn by the vanguard tankers of the 1st and 2nd Armored Divisions and even General George S. Patton, Jr., and they soldiered on in combat right up to the end of the war in 1945. Usage of the Tanker Jacket, however, far transcended the Armored Forces. The inherent stylish good looks, comfort, practicality and warmth of the Tanker Jacket made it a favorite among all troops; officers very commonly sought and wore the Tanker Jacket.
The basic jacket has been copied many times over in a variety of civilian jacket styles since its original issue to the U. S. Army in 1941 – a true testament to the timeless, classic styling and practicality of the original design. Today, a vintage first-model Tanker Jacket from WWII in a wearable size and condition will command a substantial four-figure price in the collector market, if you can even find one.
This Buzz Rickson’s 1941 Tanker Jacket has only been resurrected from its multi-year hiatus since 2014 with the popularity of Brad Pitt’s “War Daddy” character in the film “Fury.” The Buzz Rickson's 1941 Tanker Jacket superbly captures all of the features found on a vintage original examples and is even used by museums for displays due to the extreme scarcity and high price of the original jackets from WWII. Take note of these authentic features masterfully crafted into every Buzz Rickson's 1941 Tanker Jacket - things you'll only find poorly imitated on lesser "knockoffs":
• Precise copy of original U. S. Army Quartermaster label design
• Custom manufacturing of the correct twelve-ounce, cotton-twill shell to precisely match 1941 US Army specs. and dyed a correct shade of Olive Drab #3
• Cotton-thread construction
• Custom manufacturing of the correct, Olive Drab, blanket-wool lining to precisely match 1941 US Army specs.
• Two unlined patch pockets
• Vintage-style 1941 brass “Conmatic” zipper. YES, the zipper commonly found on original WWII Tanker Jackets - an amazing and valuable feature found on no other Tanker Jacket copies on the market today!
• Blanket wool-backed wind flap protector located behind zipper closure
• Custom manufacturing of the correct, two-ply, worsted wool-knit collar, cuffs and waist skirt in Olive Drab
• Double-pleated bi-swing action back
Even-numbered sizes: 36-44 regular. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Buzz Rickson’s goods are imported from Japan
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Buzz Rickson A-2 Intermediate Deck Jacket, U. S. Navy 1960’s
A sailor’s duties are very often performed in the most challenging and harsh weather conditions while at sea, thus clothing needed to be durable, warm and functional. Winter jackets, commonly referred to as “Deck Jackets,” became the most cherished clothing articles of sailors and among collectors today. Starting in late 1943 and continuing into the early 1960's, the iconic N-1 Deck Jacket design was the mainstay for intermediate use in the U. S. Navy, but beginning in the early 1960's and continuing well into the 1970's, the A-2 Deck Jacket took over.
The A-2 Deck Jacket remains a well-designed, functional, utilitarian garment possessing rugged good looks. The A-2 Deck Jacket did away with the animal hair used in the lining of the N-1 design and incorporated a new nylon pile that was equally warm, yet lighter in weight and very soft and comfortable for those with skin sensitivities. Other changes included a new exterior cotton fabric in dark-shade olive drab that was also lighter in weight, yet just as durable as the corded-cotton shell of the N-1 style, the addition of a single snap-down chest pocket, and belt adjusters at the hips to keep out chilling winds. The hidden knit cuffs of the N-1 were retained, as this feature worked extremely well at both blocking wind from rushing up inside the sleeves and in protecting the vulnerable knit from snags and tears that were all but eliminated vs. jacket styles with exposed knit parts.
Buzz Rickson's, as usual, has spared no expense and again recreated a classic jacket style as if it had to pass U. S. Navy standardized testing, which includes custom manufacturing all component parts to the original specs. using now-outdated vintage machinery. It is Buzz Rickson's attention to detail and historical purity that separates a true uniform item intended to function in adverse, challenging conditions from a costume possessing only basic characteristics of resemblance to the original item: the U. S. military wears uniforms, while trick-or-treaters wear costumes.
Please note these authentic features found only on a Buzz Rickson's masterpiece and original-issue A-2 Deck Jackets of the USN:
- Exact copy of original USN contract label design printed on cotton fabric
- Custom manufacturing of the correct, heavyweight cotton outer shell (almost like canvas) to precisely match USN specs. and dyed dark-shade olive drab
- Cotton-thread construction
- Genuine Navy-spec. urea buttons, not cheap plastic
- Custom manufacturing of the correct, double-faced, nylon-boa lining for a perfect ratio of warmth to weight following USN specs.
- Two external slash pockets
- One snap-down chest pocket
- Reinforcing stitching on collar back with heavy interlining throughout collar
- A meticulous copy of a late 1950's Comar zipper in brass has been custom made at extreme expense, precisely matching vintage examples, including all-cotton zipper tape that is folded and glued at the base with no plastic or heat sealing; a leather Navy-spec. pull fob is attached for easy function while wearing gloves
- Button-front wind flap protector located in front of zipper closure
- Custom manufacturing of the correct, two-ply, worsted wool-knit cuffs in hidden up inside the sleeves to protect from wear
- Heavy-duty, all-cotton web adjusting belts with oxide-coated metal buckles at jacket hem sides to seal out the wind
Sizes Small - XXL. Please do NOT attempt to guess at sizing; please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Imported from Japan
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Buzz Rickson B-15 Flying Jacket, USAAF Rough Wear Clothing Co.
The U. S. Army Air Force Type B-15 Intermediate Flight Jacket was developed from lessons learned in field use of the highly popular B-10 Flight Jacket of 1943. As early as 1942, the Materiel Division of the US Army Air Forces was seeking an alternative material to sheepskin for producing flying suits, and by October of that same year development had begun at Wright Field on the Intermediate Flying Jacket, Type B-10. Originally constructed of an outer shell made from a fine, cotton twill, and lined with an alpaca-and-wool pile lining, the B-10 Flight Jacket was standardized on July 22,1943, though it was superseded less than 9 months later by the B-15 Flight Jacket. Both the B-10 and B-15 Flight Jackets were designed as replacements for the sheepskin flight jackets of the 1930s and early 1940s, and represented the first cloth-shelled, alpaca fur-lined flight jackets of the USAAF.
These flight jackets were an instant success with just about every aviator who encountered one, being much lighter and more versatile than the flight jackets they replaced. Intended for wear in climates between 25 degrees and 55 degrees Fahrenheit, the B-15 Flight Jacket was ideally suited for early spring and late fall and winter.
Buzz Rickson's brand has reproduced the B-15 Flight Jacket in exacting detail, based on those once produced for the AAF by the Rough Wear Clothing Co., and Buzz Rickson's heavy, cotton twill fabric is never to be confused with the cheap, flimsy fabrics used by lesser manufacturers to produce so-called vintage reproduction USAAF flying jackets. In fact, the only other flying jackets in the world today made from this fabric are those original vintage examples of the USAAF!
This B-15 Flying Jacket correctly captures all the nuances found on original vintage B-15 Flight Jackets made by the Rough Wear Clothing Co., making this product virtually indistinguishable from an original vintage example of the USAAF. Take note of these authentic features:
• Copy of original maker’s label design produced on a vintage shuttle loom
• Custom manufacturing of the correct weight and weave Olive Drab cotton twill outer shell to precisely match original specs.
• Correct USAAF-spec. inner lining of warm, double-faced alpaca-and-wool blend. We cannot say too much about the use of the original, double-faced alpaca, which is what provides the warmth associated with the vintage jackets and requires vintage machinery found in Japan; at best, single-faced alpaca is present on cheaper look-alike costume-grade jackets and Buzz Rickson's does not make costumes.
• Gorgeous, plush, genuine mouton-fur collar with fur-padded button tab closure dyed to rich, deep-toned cognac brown
• Two snap-down exterior pockets lined with warm off-white shade corduroy precisely matching 1944 USAAF specs.
• Two snap-down interior pockets lined with heavy all-cotton drill fabric precisely matching 1944 USAAF specs.
• Authentic copy of a Talon zipper with blackened finish on jacket front, with cool-looking, contrasting tan-colored zip tape made of all-cotton HBT fabric, not incorrect poly-cotton
• Correct USAAF spec. leather pull tabs on zipper
• Custom manufacturing of the correct, all-wool knit cuffs and waist skirt in Olive Drab
• USAAF insignia transfer on left sleeve and wind flap behind zipper
• Assembly with all-cotton thread on vintage sewing machines
Sizes: 36-44 Regular. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Imported from Japan
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Buzz Rickson Chambray Shirt, Off-White, 1930’s & ’40’s, Revised Fit
Every distinctive, vintage styling feature from the past has been deftly reproduced on this Buzz Rickson's masterpiece work shirt, not the least being the all-cotton chambray fabric in a classic 1940's off-white produced on original narrow looms from the era and sewn with 1940's sewing machines. This is rugged and stylish American history at its best, and it is also going to look fabulous when worn because it is cut to flatter the body, unlike the ultra-loose styles so often encountered everywhere today. And it transcends fashion because it's traditional styling at its best, which will also outwear similar shirts you are familiar with. For the ultimate in style, match this shirt with a pair of Sugar Cane selvage-denim dungarees or Buzz Rickson's chinos! Quantities are very limited.
Take note of these authentic features and details found only on a work shirt of this pedigree:
• Placket-front closure
• Collar stand for crisper appearance
• Vintage-style open-top pocket
• Double-stitched seams for superior strength
• Reinforced shoulder yoke for greater durability at this crucial abrasion area
• Pencil slot on left pocket
• Custom manufacturing of correct bakelite-style buttons
• Custom manufacturing of the correct, all-cotton chambray fabric on the original shuttle looms employed back in the 1930's
• Selvage edge on plaits at shirttail side seams
• Chain stitch runoff at shirttail gusseted side seams
• All-cotton thread employed throughout construction
• Exact copy of the original-style rayon-on-cotton labels
• True vintage fit for flattering appearance
• One-wash finish for greater softness out of the box
Sizes available: 14 1/2 Small - 18 1/2 XXL. Please note: This is the revised fit of a Buzz Rickson’s shirt of the same name that was offered before the fall of 2012, but this Revised Fit substantially impacts the fit and those who can comfortably wear this shirt vs. the earlier shirt. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Buzz Rickson’s products are imported from Japan
Gift Certificates Available
*Price includes
U. S. customs duty,
processing fees, currency-
conversion fees and
shipping & insurance from
the manufacturer to the USA.
Click for Information and Photos
Buzz Rickson Duffel Coat, Camel
Last FEW Left!
The iconic Duffel Coat is rooted in the history of the British Royal Navy in WWII. The Royal Navy fought much of WWII in the frigid waters of the North Atlantic and Arctic, and it was the Duffel Coat that kept them warm, though it was British Army Field Marshall Bernard L. Montgomery, the subject of frequent photo ops wearing a camel-colored Duffel Coat in 1944-45, who launched this style to iconic proportions in WWII. After the war, surplus coats were cheap and available, making them popular with students in the 1950's and 1960's, but thanks to "Monty," the popularity of the style outpaced surplus stocks and several civilian manufacturers began producing similar versions of Duffel Coats, often with plaid linings, and sometimes in shorter lengths. A commercial copy of the Duffel Coat was even worn in the early 1960's by the charismatic American president John F. Kennedy, but it is genuine, Royal Navy-issue Duffel Coats that can be seen worn by movie stars in some classic films that include Bernard Lee in Dunkirk, Anthony Steel in The Sea Shall Not Have Them, and Gregory Peck and David Niven in The Guns of Navarone, naming just a few.
Buzz Rickson brand has resurrected a WWII Royal Navy version of the Duffel Coat in its original, full length, made from 34-ounce Melton Wool and correctly unlined, replete with the double-thickness reinforced shoulders and original closure of three toggle ropes. The design is very simple, yet it is its functional simplicity that makes it so appealing. Intended for winter conditions with no thought to fashion, these coats continue to amaze us in their original form, being made in both camel and navy blue colors, but camel was more widely produced and, of course, more iconic because camel is what was worn by Monty and JFK. The design is full and roomy, which allows for layering to suit one's needs and climates.
The Duffel Coat never goes out of style, especially when the original version that started the look is copied to a tee, and it looks fantastic when worn with a roll-neck RAF sweater (available on this website) or fisherman-style sweater. Please note these details and features found on this Buzz Rickson's masterpiece:
- Rope-with-wooden-toggle-button closure
- Custom manufacturing of genuine urea buttons, not cheap plastic
- Custom manufacturing of the correct 34-ounce Melton wool using vintage machinery
- Unlined interior
- Assembly using vintage sewing machines
- Double-thickness reinforcing to shoulders
- Double-thickness overlapping frontal closure
- Integral hood with throat latch and buttons
- Adjustment tabs on wrists to keep out chilling winds
- Herringbone-twill cotton stays on coat bottom sides for securing the coat to one's legs in harsh weather
- Two open-top exterior pockets
- Vintage-style labeling
- DRY CLEAN ONLY
Even sizes 36-42 Regular. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Imported from Japan
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Buzz Rickson G-1 Flying Jacket, U. S. Navy 55-J-14 , A. Pritzker & Sons, Inc.
Buzz Rickson's brand is world renowned for producing truly standout copies of the famous G-1 Flying Jacket, but this new example elevates their reputation to levels so spectacular, we are left fully bereft of adequate words to describe it.
This offering is a meticulous copy of a G-1 Flying Jacket produced under the first G-1 Flying Jacket spec. from 1947 (spec. 55-J-14), duplicating the typical jackets produced by A. Pritzker & Sons, Inc., a civilian contractor to the U. S. Navy. No detail has been overlooked by Buzz Rickson's brand, which means every component part of the jacket had to be custom made to match buttons, zippers, and fabrics that no longer exist in the same form as was found in the late 1940's; however, it is the fit, taken directly from vintage U. S. Navy specs., and the sumptuous, Merino sheepskin collar and grade-one goatskin that, along with this jacket's many other parts, combine to make this nothing less than wearable history recreated.
The goatskin is positively striking in every way. The leather weight comes in at a robust 3-ounces per square foot and is fully vegetable tanned, rich with heavy grain, and dyed only on the surface with full-pigment dyes. The leather is not at all stiff or overly heavy, but it is plump and firm, and fully unlike the heavily processed, chrome-tanned goatskin so commonly found in mainstream jackets. Surface dying is how the original 55-J-14's were dyed, which means this Buzz Rickson's G-1 will age and distress just as we see on those cherished vintage jackets, with all the character of an old navy salt. And we cannot say enough good about the look of this leather: the coloring of the dye used and its attendant finish are simply the most like a new-condition, vintage 55-J-14 as any we have ever seen! Other copies of the 55-J-14 G-1 Jackets, even from top manufacturers, typically can be much too dark in color, too shiny, or too matte in appearance, and the shade of brown is just never right where it needs to be - until NOW! Even the top aficionados of the 55-J-14 G-1 Flying Jackets will be duly impressed with what Buzz Rickson brand has achieved with this goatskin leather.
Beyond the industry-leading leather quality and character, beyond the clone-like color and finish type, and beyond the supreme comfort and flattery of the genuine U. S. Navy fit, is the mind-blowing rayon lining and fur collar. Buzz Rickson's brand has always had their heavyweight rayon acetate lining custom made to match Navy-spec. rayon fabric in weight, appearance, and hand, but because the coloring of the lining of a 55-J-14 made by A. Pritzker & Sons is so unique among other contractors of the 55-J-14's, the lining on this example is especially noteworthy - the color, weave, and weight just hit you as something only seen on a vintage example - it both looks and feels just as a 55-J-14 made by A. Pritzker & Sons in the late 1940's did!
Merino sheepskin is something Buzz Rickson has tweaked to perfection for at least the last 4 years. Somewhere, the Buzz Rickson brand has located a tannery that seems to generate Merino sheepskin as if it had been genetically engineered to match the mind's fantasy of ideals: The sheepskin used on the collars of these G-1 jackets is nothing short of mouth-watering, sumptuous, mega-plush, half-inch genuine Merino sheepskin that is just not of this Earth!
Final touches that take this G-1 Flying Jacket into the heavens include the reproduction of a blackened-metal, late-1940's Conmar zipper, genuine urea buttons (never incorrect, cheap plastic), and a copy of the A. Pritzker & Sons, Inc. label woven on vintage shuttle looms. The sum of all the many parts is an heirloom, clone-like jacket that fits like a dream, and which can be handed down to the next generation - there's nothing disposable about a Buzz Rickson's leather jacket and it only gets better with use and age!
This Buzz Rickson G-1 55-J-14 is a masterpiece of wearable jacket art, crafted in rugged materials that are as beautiful as they are durable. Please note the following materials and features:
- Copy of the original A. Pritzker & Sons, Inc., woven label produced on a vintage shuttle loom, not modern projectile looms
- Custom manufacturing of the correct weight and weave rayon acetate lining dyed to match the purple-like brown shade associated with 55-J-14's made by A. Pritzker & Sons
- Custom manufacturing of the correct two-ply, Navy-spec., worsted-wool cuffs with the narrow weave graduating into the wider weave at top, dyed medium brown to match what is commonly seen on 55-J-14's made by A. Pritzker & Sons
- Custom manufacturing of the correct single-ply, bi-directional, Navy-spec., worsted-wool waistband, dyed medium brown to match what is commonly seen on 55-J-14's made by A. Pritzker & Sons
- Two button-down exterior pockets lined with all-cotton twill precisely matching 1940's USN specs
- One snap-down interior pocket lined with heavy-weight, all-cotton duck twill precisely matching 1940's USN specs
- Exact copy of the vintage-style, blackened-metal Conmar Conmatic zipper on jacket front, with zip tape made of 100% cotton HBT fabric, not incorrect poly-cotton
- Leather pull tab on zipper for easy functioning with gloves
- Heavy wind flap protector located behind zipper closure
- Bi-swing action back and gusseted armpits (with metal air ventilators) for greater range of motion without restriction
- Gorgeous, plush, genuine-Merino sheepskin collar with backing leather correctly reinforced with trapunto stitching to maintain collar shape and help keep collar up when the need arises. The "USN" stencil is correctly applied in off-white paint to the collar back in a font style precisely matching that found on 55-J-14's manufactured by A. Pritzker & Sons.
- Sumptuous, vegetable-tanned, 3-ounce, heavy-grained goatskin that is not overly stiff or heavy, maintaining the true feel of the original jackets. The dye coating is sprayed on, just as it should be for a 55-J-14 G-1, and it precisely matches the correct shade of brown and finish found on 55-J-14's once made by A. Pritzker & Sons; the result is a leather that will distress and age over time from use and wear to yield a vintage look that is on par with anything made in the 1940's-'50's
- Genuine urea buttons, not incorrect, cheap plastic
- Assembly using vintage sewing machines
Even sizes 36-44 Regular. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Buzz Rickson goods are imported from Japan
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Buzz Rickson G-1 Flying Jacket, U. S. Navy MIL-J-7823 (AER)
Buzz Rickson's brand is renowned for producing truly standout copies of the famous G-1 Flying Jacket and this example, their basic spec. 7823 (AER), is the one that started it all!
Though the first G-1 dates to 1947, the spec. 7823 from 1950 was the first in a long series of the 7823's ranging up to 7823E, and it is this first 7823 that remains the most sought after. No detail has been overlooked by Buzz Rickson's, which means every component part of the jacket had to be custom made to match buttons, zippers, and fabrics that no longer exist in the same form as was found in the early 1950's; however, it is the fit and sumptuous, grade-one goatskin that, along with its parts, combines to make this a masterpiece.
The goatskin comes in at 2.5-3-ounce weight and is fully vegetable tanned and pigment dyed only on the surface. The leather is not at all stiff or heavy, but it is plump and robust, and fully unlike the heavily processed, chrome-tanned goatskin so commonly found in mainstream jackets. Surface dying is how the original 7823's were dyed, which means the Buzz Rickson's G-1 will age and distress just as we see on those cherished vintage jackets with all the character of an old navy salt. The sum of all the many parts is an heirloom jacket that fits like a dream and that can be handed down to the next generation - there's nothing disposable about a Buzz Rickson's leather jacket and it only gets better with use and age!
This Buzz Rickson G-1 is a masterpiece of wearable jacket art crafted in rugged materials that are as beautiful as they are durable. Please note the following materials and features:
- Copy of the original style contractor label produced on a vintage shuttle loom
- Custom manufacturing of the correct weight and weave rayon acetate lining dyed the original shade of a purple-like brown
- Custom manufacturing of the correct two-ply, worsted-wool cuffs with the narrow weave graduating into the wider weave at top, dyed dark brown
- Custom manufacturing of the correct single-ply, bi-directional, worsted-wool waistband, dyed dark brown
- Two button-down exterior pockets lined with all-cotton twill precisely matching 1950 USN specs.
- One snap-down interior pocket lined with heavy-weight, all-cotton duck twill precisely matching 1950 USN specs.
- Exact copy of the vintage-style, blackened-metal Conmar Conmatic zipper on jacket front, with zip tape made of 100% cotton HBT fabric, not incorrect poly-cotton
- Leather pull tab on zipper for easy functioning with gloves
- Heavy wind flap protector located behind zipper closure
- Bi-swing action back and gusseted armpits (with metal air ventilators) for greater range of motion without restriction
- Gorgeous, plush, genuine mouton-fur collar with backing leather correctly reinforced with trapunto stitching to maintain collar shape and help keep collar up when the need arises. The "USN" stencil is correctly applied in silver paint to the collar back.
- Sumptuous, vegetable-tanned, 3-ounce, goatskin that is not overly stiff or heavy, maintaining the true feel of the original jackets. The dye coating is sprayed on, just as it should be for a 7823 G-1, and it's also very matte in finish; the result is a leather that will distress and age over time from use and wear to yield a vintage look that is on par with anything made in the 1950's.
- Assembly using vintage sewing machines
Even sizes 36-44 Regular. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Buzz Rickson goods are imported from Japan
Click for Information and Photos