“GREYHOUND” Product: Buzz Rickson CPO Shirt, U. S. Navy 1st-Model
The critically acclaimed 2020 Tom Hanks film "GREYHOUND" depicts warfare in the North Atlantic against German U-Boats in World War II. Tom Hanks is a very dedicated actor who holds great personal admiration and respect for the WWII veterans, and as such he is very driven to achieve high levels of authenticity. The production company for "GREYHOUND" hired our founder as a consultant because they were interested in the epitome of historical accuracy, and they purchased our Buzz Rickson's U. S. Navy items because these items are world renowned as the last word in quality and authenticity. If you see "GREYHOUND," our founder is credited on screen as a consultant and you will see nearly every minute of the film depicting the primary cast wearing Buzz Rickson's USN winter Deck Jackets, Pea Coats, and work shirts that were supplied in quantity; more specifically, however, Tom Hanks is outfitted wearing this exact same Buzz Rickson's USN CPO shirt throughout nearly the entire film.
This all-time classic shirt jacket has become universally known as a “CPO Shirt," though the actual application of this garment was not limited to U. S. Navy Chief Petty Officers. The shirt was developed for cold-weather work duty in the 1930's and, in practice, could be worn even by officers. The style evolved over the years, eventually having two breast pockets both with open tops and with pocket flaps, but the 1st version is immediately identifiable by the single breast pocket with scalloped pocket flap. Scores of these shirts were produced to meet the needs of the U. S. Navy during WWII. The clean, simple, practical design of the shirt, particularly this one-pocket version, and its hard-wearing, cozy, wool-flannel construction met with a very favorable reception by the sailors to whom it was issued. After WWII, the “CPO Shirts,” as they came to be called, were widely worn among the civilian population of the USA due to the vast number of discharged sailors who continued to wear their issue shirts and the availability of issue garments sold via Army/Navy surplus stores.
The popularity of this “CPO Shirt” design grew increasingly in the post-WWII decades, being offered for sale in the 1960's and 1970's in a variety of colors and even in plaid prints, sold by such big-name American retailers as Sears and Roebuck, J. C. Penney, and Montgomery Ward, though it was the later jacket version with two square-edged flap pockets these retailers marketed vs. the one-pocket 1st model.
There has been a moderate resurgence in the last decade or so of some of the garments associated with the 1960's and 1970's and the “CPO Shirt” has been offered in various forms by today’s bigger names in the fashion industry, though the garments themselves pale in qualitative comparison to those from the 1930's – 1950's - except this Buzz Rickson’s masterpiece!
Once again, Buzz Rickson’s brand has resurrected a bygone treasure from the ground up, utilizing the vintage looms and know-how to craft fabrics not seen in 50 years or more, then deftly sewing the pieces together with vintage Union Special sewing machines to provide a finished product that comes as close to the vintage garment as possible. What we end up with is a “CPO Shirt” that transcends fashion by light years and bolts straight to the heart of classic style through the very functionality of the original design that has been so deftly reproduced.
The weight and quality of the wool, the fine details such as the twill-backed frontal closure, chain-stitched runoff with gusset on the shirttail, collar stand, and the simple clean lines of the 1st model with one scalloped-flap pocket all speak loudly about the production and design mindsets behind this gallant reproduction. Perhaps the most special feature of this style is the use of boiled wool, which is then dried naturally in the sun outdoors to yield a soft, non-scratchy hand that feels like a vintage favorite worn by an old salt.
This is top-quality vintage craftsmanship irreplaceable at any price – this is Buzz Rickson’s. Please take note of these authentic features:
• Exact copy of original U. S. Naval Clothing Factory contract label design printed on cotton
• Custom manufacturing of the correct, heavy-weight, wool-flannel on vintage looms, which is then boiled and dyed outdoors in sunlight so it's not scratchy and feels like an old salt's favorite shirt
• Custom manufacturing of the correct, all-cotton twill backing on frontal closure
• Cotton-thread construction
• Original-spec. one-pocket design with scalloped flap
• Custom manufacturing of the original-style urea buttons with fouled anchor
• Chain-stitched runoff with gusseted shirttail
• Collar stand with early, more pointed collar
• Counter-rotated right cuff (this isn't an error - this is how a 1st-Model CPO shirt should be)
Even sizes 36-44 Regular. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Buzz Rickson’s goods are imported from Japan
“GREYHOUND” Product: Buzz Rickson CPO Shirt, U. S. Navy 1st-Model
SIZING TIPS
About this Style: If you plan to wear this as it was originally intended, which is as a shirt, then experience has proven that maintaining no less than 3” – 4” of room between your chest measure and the exterior chest circumference measure of the shirt will provide for a crisp-yet-comfortable fit. If you prefer to wear this more as an over-shirt, then you may prefer to have more room between your chest and the garment.
Tip 1: Follow the instructions entitled “How to Use Product Measures to Obtain a Good Fit” listed under the PRODUCT MEASUREMENTS tab for this product. After finding no substantive conflicts with your body measures obtained from the tab entitled BODY MEASURING, order this garment with no less than 3” - 4” of room in excess of your chest measure if you prefer a trim fit, thus ordering a size that equates to your chest measure is ideal: Chest measures 40”, then order size 40. If you prefer a roomier or longer fit, then order the next available size after reviewing all relative measures that pertain to that size.
Tip 2: Please note that your chest circumference measure is not necessarily the labeled size you wear in another garment you may own from a different maker or even the same maker, so please take the time to obtain your true chest circumference measure so as to compare to our chart of measures; this will enable us to perform a better job getting you the right size and minimize your chances in having to deal with the hassle and cost of exchanges.
Please ask us for fitting advice if in doubt.
Tip 3: Individuals who prefer looser fits and/or those with a waist measure that is nearly equal to or greater than their chest circumference measure may jump up one size in this shirt for comfort and desired fit (when we refer to waist measure we do not mean your trouser size; we mean the actual circumference measure of your waistline at its widest point). If you are unsure of the size to order we will assist you; please contact us with the following information: Height, waist circumference measure, chest circumference measure, body weight, and type of clothing to be worn beneath the shirt most of the time, as well as the type of fit you prefer: Trim, roomy or oversized.
“GREYHOUND” Product: Buzz Rickson CPO Shirt, U. S. Navy 1st-Model
PRODUCT MEASUREMENTS
The following table provides actual product measures. These measures are provided as an aid because, in conjunction with the information found under the SIZING TIPS tab for each product, they can sometimes be very useful when comparing the measurements from this garment to the measures of your body; however, acting as an armchair tailor should be done with caution, as well as with knowledge of other important areas of fit that are not displayed here. Armchair tailors frequently fail to take into account other significant elements that impact fit; following the information found under the SIZING TIPS tab for each garment on this web site is strongly suggested, which can be very useful in supplanting or supplementing the listed measures below.
Our measures were derived from averaging many garments of the same size from each specific size in the range of any given product, thus the measures provided are representative for each size but they may not be exactly what you will receive. Some fluctuation in size is normal and to be expected, especially in these garments that have been manufactured on vintage machinery using natural fibers; the vintage machinery and techniques that create sought-after looks and fabrics are also less precise than machines contemporary to the current era.
| Size | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 |
| Chest width | 20" | 21" | 22" | 22.5" | 24" |
| Shoulder width | 16" | 17" | 18" | 18" | 19.5" |
| Arm length | 24" | 24" | 24.5" | 25.5" | 25.5" |
| Back length | 26.5" | 28" | 28.5" | 29.5" | 30.5" |
How to Use the Product Measures to Obtain a Good Fit:
1) Using the measurements listed for this product and information found under the tab entitled MEASURING GARMENTS to understand our measuring technique, please double the chest measure to obtain the total external chest circumference of this garment. For example: If the chest measure listed for size 40 is 22”, doubling this measure yields a 44” external chest circumference.
2) Measure your chest circumference as per the tab on this web site specifically addressing BODY MEASURING, then compare your chest measure to the chest measure of this product.
3) Many garments are cut in such a way that the wearer requires no less than 3” of room in the shirt for a sleek fit that is also comfortable, while other shirts styles require the wearer to have more than 6” of room. If your chest circumference is 40”, a product with a 22” chest width has a 44” external chest circumference and would provide 4” of external room in this scenario (chest measures 40”, external chest measure of shirt is 44”, thus 4” of external room would be realized).
4) Again, using the measurements listed for this product and information under the MEASURING GARMENTS tab to understand our measuring technique, add half of the shoulder width to the arm length. For example: If the shoulder width is 18” and the arm length is 24.5”, adding 9” (half the shoulder width) to 24.5” (the arm length) will yield an overall sleeve length of 33.5” in this product.
5) Measure your overall sleeve length following the instructions on this web site under the tab specifically addressing BODY MEASURING, then compare your overall sleeve length to this product.
6) If desired, repeat the measuring comparisons for back length.
7) Compare your body measures to the listed garment measures and follow the advice found under the SIZING TIPS tab to obtain a good fit.
IMPORTANT: Because you need room in a garment for comfort, garments with a 44” chest circumference are NOT a size 44, nor are they intended for anyone with a 44” chest circumference. Tee shirts and thermal shirts tend to have the most body-hugging fits of our product offerings because these were originally intended to be undergarments, thus these can be ordered to stretch to fit if that is how you wish to wear such garments. Other shirts, sweatshirts, sweaters, jackets, etc. will all have some amount of room incorporated in their designs, thus these will all measure larger than your actual chest measure by varying degrees.
Sometimes-Problematic Way to Determine a Good Fit:
Due to differences in how even near-identical garments are cut by different manufacturers, it is not necessarily a good idea to compare the listed measures of this product to the measures of an existing, similar product in your wardrobe to determine the correct size to order in this product. Though such comparisons can indeed work some of the time, and maybe even most of the time, vast experience with and knowledge of the products we market has proven such practices will sometimes fail. This inaccurate measuring methodology doesn't factor in other key variables of fit relative to you and the garment that includes: Armhole opening, shoulder slope, high-point shoulder, high chest, width of sleeves at all points including the all-important elbow, waist measure, and the thickness, plumpness, and rigidity of the material the garment is made from, naming just some variables influencing fit that do not appear on any list of measurements for a garment or that a customer is likely to account for.
It is best to compare your actual body measures to the listed measures of this product AND follow our advice listed under the SIZING TIPS tab specific to this product to obtain a good fit in this style.
A Good Fit:
This is highly subjective - what one person may think is too big, another may think fits perfectly. Some garments are cut quite generously and others are cut quite trimly. If comparing measurements of one of our products to another you may own, some individuals will surely find that none or maybe only one area of measure is commonly shared or remotely close to being the same. Ultimately, chest measure is the most important area to properly fit, then all other areas of measure will have to fall into place. And some individuals who are extremely tall may find that body and/or sleeve length are more important to accommodate than even chest measure.
It is best to compare your actual body measures to the listed measures of this product AND follow our advice listed under the SIZING TIPS tab specific to this product to obtain a good fit in this style.
We strive to create a crisp fit between our products and the customer, and not a loose, sloppy look. If you prefer your clothing to fit more loosely, then we will do our best to work with you to that end, though, by the very nature of our product designs and fits it may not be possible to duplicate the slack looks found in many mainstream clothing brands even if you go up one or two sizes in our products.
