Buzz Rickson M-445A Winter Flying Jacket, WWII U. S. Navy, Merino Fleece
The U. S. Navy's primary winter flying jacket in WWII was the M-445A, and due to the fact the USN's aviation arm was primarily serving in warmer climates vs. those of the U. S. Army, the sheepskin jackets of the USN are less well known and studied, but from a design and functionality perspective, the M-445A was vastly superior to the mainstay sheepskin jacket of the AAF - the B-3 flying jacket. By 1943, the AAF elected to slightly modify the USN's M-445A into a sheepskin jacket that would, in theory, serve both service branches as the AN-J-4, but few were made and all went exclusively to the AAF. The M-445A and AN-J-4 were superior designs to all other sheepskin flying jacket styles employed by the U. S. at the time and included costly consumption of lavish quantities of leather and provided well-designed features such as extra leather reinforcing at all areas of stress and friction.
Vintage sheepskin flying jackets from WWII were made from whatever sheepskin was available, while, of course, conforming to a basic specification, but the vast majority of this sheepskin was nothing very special and simply served its intended purpose to protect and keep warm the aircrew assigned to wear such garments. Some smaller number of all vintage sheepskin garments from WWII were made from very nice sheepskin that stood out for its quality and beauty, while still falling short of being in the league of the very best. Due to the high demand on the world's sheepskin supply at the time, there was no distinction being made by the military between one type of sheep wool from another, and such high-end products as Merino fleece would have been procured alongside all of the others and turned into the same flying clothing, resulting in an infinitesimally very, very few sheepskin garments actually being of a pedigree above and beyond the rest, even though in the eyes of the military all were created and issued equally.
This Buzz Rickson's WWII USN M-445A sheepskin flying jacket, whether made during WWII or now, stands out like a king's jewels among rhinestones! This sheepskin jacket is lovingly crafted from what we can assuredly say is the very finest Merino sheepskin we have ever seen; the coat can only be described as a penultimate masterpiece of artwork in the guise of a leather jacket. There are simply not enough superlatives to adequately convey all of high-quality workmanship and beauty in this style.
The combination of the extreme expense of these hand-selected Merino sheepskin pelts, the custom-made parts matching WWII specs., and the use of only the best labor from Japan's fur industry to craft this jacket bring its manufacturer's retail price in excess of $2, 700.00. We, on the other hand, sometimes cannot stay out of the way of our own passion for something so amazingly special that we feel as if we have a duty to bring a select few of such specialized items to our most-discriminating clients, and at a profit margin below what any high-street store would unapologetically demand; accordingly, we are offering a tiny selection of these amazing jackets at a price discounted by $500.00 below their market price. Once these few jackets are gone, there will be no more.
Please note these authentic features:
- Copy of original the original style contractor label design produced on a vintage shuttle loom
- Custom manufacturing of the correct two-ply, worsted-wool storm cuffs with the narrow weave graduating into the wider weave at top, and then hidden up inside the sleeve to protect the knit from damage and wear
- Two button-down exterior pockets made from premium, vegetable-tanned goatskin lined with all-cotton twill precisely matching 1940's USN specs.
- Exact copy of the vintage-style, nickel-plated Talon zipper with zip tape made of 100% cotton HBT fabric, not incorrect poly-cotton. Zipper runs the full frontal length up to the collar top to secure against chilling winds right up to the nose, if desired
- Premium, vegetable-tanned goatskin pull tab on zipper for easy functioning with gloves
- Premium, vegetable-tanned goatskin hanger in neck area
- Heavy wind flap protector located behind zipper closure
- Adjusting belts on hips made from premium, vegetable-tanned goatskin and attached to oxide-coated metal buckles to help seal out chilling winds
- Gusseted armpits for greater range of motion without restriction
- Pencil slot hidden under pocket flap of left pocket
- Navy-style, diamond-shaped elbow reinforcements made from premiu,
- Zipper tape, cuff ends, bottom hem, and collar back covered on both sides in premium vegetable-tanned goatskin for extreme durability
- Collar back reinforced with 20 rows os stitching and attached with 5 rows of stitching
- Collar back stenciled in black paint with the letters "U. S. N.," exactly as found on vintage M-445A flying jackets
- All major seams are sewn using a twin-needle, flat-lock vintage sewing machine
- Zipper is attached and reinforced at collar with two pieces of premium vegetable-tanned goatskin
- Constructed from mouth-watering, sumptuous, mega-plush, half-inch genuine Merino sheepskin that its simply not of this Earth. The wool color is best described as a gorgeous buttermilk color, with exterior dyed with a dark, bitter-shade of brown polyacrylate pigment and lacquered to repeal moisture
- All-cotton thread in contrasting medium-brown color employed throughout exterior construction, which will fade gracefully from exposure to sunlight, just as found on vintage jackets
Even sizes 36-44 Regular. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Buzz Rickson goods are imported from Japan
Buzz Rickson M-445A Winter Flying Jacket, WWII U. S. Navy, Merino Fleece
SIZING TIPS
About this Style: This jacket style fits sensibly when ordered in a size that directly corresponds to one's actual chest measure: chest measures 42", order size 42. The vast majority of customers prefer this style in a size 8” larger than their chest measure. It is important to keep in mind that this jacket style is made of sheepskin with sheep wool measuring 1/2” in depth in the body, thus the external chest measures listed here are just that – EXTERNAL measures – and don’t account for the lesser amount of room on the inside of the jacket and the room the seams consume. Likewise, if you plan to wear heavy layers under this jacket style, that application will further subtract from the room inside the jacket. The jacket is rather soft and flexible, however, owing to the incredible merino sheepskin, and the presence of underarm gussets and better-configured sleeve reinforcements than found on an AAF B-3 sheepskin jacket, all provide for greater flexibility and range of motion.
Tip 1: Follow the instructions entitled “How to Use Product Measures to Obtain a Good Fit” listed under the PRODUCT MEASUREMENTS tab for this product. After finding no substantive conflicts with your body measures obtained from the tab entitled BODY MEASURING, order this garment with no less than 7" - 8”of room in excess of your chest measure if you prefer a trim, yet-comfortable fit in the chest and shoulders, thus if you have a 40” chest circumference measure, order size 40. Those whose chest measure falls on an odd number, such as 41” or 43”, will have to determine if they want less room or more room when selecting a jacket size. If a roomier or longer fit is desired, then order the next available size after reviewing all relative measures that pertain to that size.
Tip 2: Please note that your chest circumference measure is not necessarily the labeled size you wear in another jacket you may own from a different maker, so please take the time to obtain your true chest circumference measure so as to compare to our chart of jacket measures. This will enable us to perform a better job getting you the right size and sparing you the hassle and cost of exchanges.
Please ask us for fitting advice if in doubt.
Tip 3: Most individuals are advised to NOT order this style if their chest circumference measure is greater than 45”. If you are unsure of the size to order we will assist you; please contact us with the following information: height, waist circumference measure, chest circumference measure, body weight, and type of clothing to be worn beneath the jacket most of the time, as well as the type of fit you prefer: Trim, roomy or oversized.
Buzz Rickson M-445A Winter Flying Jacket, WWII U. S. Navy, Merino Fleece
PRODUCT MEASUREMENTS
The following table provides actual product measures. These measures are provided as an aid because, in conjunction with the information found under the SIZING TIPS tab for each product, they can sometimes be very useful when comparing the measurements from this garment to the measures of your body; however, acting as an armchair tailor should be done with caution, as well as with knowledge of other important areas of fit that are not displayed here. Armchair tailors frequently fail to take into account other significant elements that impact fit; following the information found under the SIZING TIPS tab for each garment on this web site is strongly suggested, which can be very useful in supplanting or supplementing the listed measures below.
Our measures were derived from averaging measurements taken from many garments of the same size from each specific size in the range of any given product, thus the measures provided are representative for each size but they may not be exactly what you will receive. Some fluctuation in size is normal and to be expected, especially in these garments that have been manufactured on the bench by hand. Size fluctuations are rarely encountered in the width measures and more typically encountered in length measures, and particularly with respect to leather jackets and jackets with knit cuffs and waistbands. Fluctuations in width measures are very rare, and when they are encountered they are typically insignificant: 1/8” – ¼”. Normal fluctuations in sleeve and/or body length + /- a ½” is more common but still rare, and such fluctuations in that increment range are within spec. for jackets of the same size and style.
| Size | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 |
| Chest width | 22" | 23" | 24" | 25" | 26" |
| Shoulder width | 18" | 19" | 20" | 20" | 21" |
| Arm length | 23" | 24" | 25" | 25" | 26" |
| Back length | 24" | 24" | 25" | 26" | 26" |
How to Use the Product Measures to Obtain a Good Fit:
1) Using the measurements listed for this product and information found under the tab entitled MEASURING GARMENTS to understand our measuring technique, please double the chest measure to obtain the total external chest circumference of this garment. For example: If the chest measure listed for size 40 is 22”, doubling this measure yields a 44” external chest circumference.
2) Measure your chest circumference as per the tab on this web site specifically addressing BODY MEASURING, then compare your chest measure to the chest measure of this product.
3) Many jackets are cut in such a way that the wearer requires no less than 4” of room in the jacket for a sleek fit that is also comfortable, while other jacket styles require the wearer to have more than 8” of room. If your chest circumference is 40”, a product with a 22” chest width has a 44” external chest circumference and would provide 4” of external room in this scenario (chest measures 40”, external chest measure of jacket is 44”, thus 4” of external room would be realized).
4) Again, using the measurements listed for this product and information under the MEASURING GARMENTS tab to understand our measuring technique, add half of the shoulder width to the arm length. For example: If the shoulder width is 19” and the arm length is 26.5”, adding 9.5” (half the shoulder width) to 26.5” (the arm length) will yield an overall sleeve length of 36” in this product.
5) Measure your overall sleeve length following the instructions on this web site under the tab specifically addressing BODY MEASURING, then compare your overall sleeve length to this product.
6) If desired, repeat the measuring comparisons for back length.
7) Compare your body measures to the listed garment measures and follow the advice found under the SIZING TIPS tab to obtain a good fit.
IMPORTANT: Because you need room in a garment for comfort, garments with a 44” chest circumference are NOT a size 44, nor are they intended for anyone with a 44” chest circumference. Tee shirts and thermal shirts tend to have the most body-hugging fits of our product offerings because these were originally intended to be undergarments, thus these can be ordered to stretch to fit if that is how you wish to wear such garments. Other shirts, sweatshirts, sweaters, jackets, etc. will all have some amount of room incorporated in their designs, thus these will all measure larger than your actual chest measure by varying degrees.
Sometimes-Problematic Way to Determine a Good Fit:
Due to differences in how even near-identical garments are cut by different manufacturers, it is not necessarily a good idea to compare the listed measures of this product to the measures of an existing, similar product in your wardrobe to determine the correct size to order in this product. Though such comparisons can indeed work some of the time, and maybe even most of the time, vast experience with and knowledge of the products we market has proven such practices will sometimes fail. This inaccurate measuring methodology doesn't factor in other key variables of fit relative to you and the garment that includes: Armhole opening, shoulder slope, high-point shoulder, high chest, width of sleeves at all points including the all-important elbow, waist measure, and the thickness, plumpness, and rigidity of the material the garment is made from, naming just some variables influencing fit that do not appear on any list of measurements for a garment or that a customer is likely to account for.
It is best to compare your actual body measures to the listed measures of this product AND follow our advice listed under the SIZING TIPS tab specific to this product to obtain a good fit in this style.
A Good Fit:
This is highly subjective - what one person may think is too big, another may think fits perfectly. Some garments are cut quite generously and others are cut quite trimly. If comparing measurements of one of our products to another you may own, some individuals will surely find that none or maybe only one area of measure is commonly shared or remotely close to being the same. Ultimately, chest measure is the most important area to properly fit, then all other areas of measure will have to fall into place. And some individuals who are extremely tall may find that body and/or sleeve length are more important to accommodate than even chest measure.
It is best to compare your actual body measures to the listed measures of this product AND follow our advice listed under the SIZING TIPS tab specific to this product to obtain a good fit in this style.
We strive to create a crisp fit between our products and the customer, and not a loose, sloppy look. If you prefer your clothing to fit more loosely, then we will do our best to work with you to that end, though, by the very nature of our product designs and fits it may not be possible to duplicate the slack looks found in many mainstream clothing brands even if you go up one or two sizes in our products.
