USAC A-1 Capeskin Flying Jacket
The type A-1 Flight Jacket was standardized on November 27th 1927, being the predecessor of the now-famous type A-2 Flight Jacket. Synonymous with early aviation heroes, such as: Jimmy Doolittle, Ira Eaker and Carl Spaatz, it was the very first of the windcheater-type flying jackets outfitted with knitted waist and cuffs, and a design that was to set the basic outline for flying jacket styling to this day.
Originally, the A-1 Flight Jacket was specified to be made from a olive drab cape leather, but the few existing examples that can be found today are always a chestnut-brown shade of capeskin. The frontal closure was facilitated with genuine horn buttons, and backed again with smaller real horn buttons for extra strength, as were the pocket flaps. The jacket lining was a densely woven brown sateen cotton, while the collar, cuffs and waist band were 100% worsted wool. Our reproduction is crafted just as the original was, including the sleek 1920s fit. Typical of designs of that era, many jackets had a rather slim cut with narrow sleeves and nippy shoulders. We have followed the original design precisely; however, unlike jackets made from stiffer, less-forgiving hides, the A-1 Jacket's softer, finer leather construction – Capeskin – wears easily, and is, perhaps, best described as feeling as if you had on a sheepskin shirt. However, it’s easy to see why the Army Air Corps made the A-2 from more-durable leathers, as capeskin is not necessarily the best type of hide for a rugged and utilitarian application. It is not surprising that original A-1 Jackets are hard to find, since capeskin wouldn’t take the rigors of combat use and rubbing on any sharp, angular parts likely found in the 1920s cockpits.
Capeskin is, basically, sheepskin - the same leather that was used to make the B-3 and B-6 Flight Jackets - the only real difference between capeskin and sheepskin is that Cape is a particular breed derived from Africa and noted for its fine quality and smooth texture, making it perfect for hair-off leather garments. But as a reproduction flying jacket wearer of today, please do not be put off by the notion that capeskin is inherently less durable than, say, horsehide. Capeskin is perfectly acceptable for the kind of daily use the average person would plan to give their jacket; indeed, lamb and sheepskin jackets are worn by scores of individuals every day without any issues, and thousands of our happy customers continue to enjoy wearing our many sheepskin flying jackets year after year without suffering damage to end the useful life of their jackets. This A-1 really is a pleasure to wear, too, being light in weight and extremely flexible, feeling as if you have nothing much more on than a cardigan. It is an ideal jacket for spring, summer and early fall, which can be worn upon entering a building and not making one feel the need to remove their jacket. The A-1 Flight Jacket, in our opinion, is the perfect all-around jacket, built from a buttery-soft leather that simply exudes quality in a design that is all about classic styling without looking dated at all.
We’ve spared no expense with the rest of the A-1 Jacket construction. Check out these authentic features found only on an original A-1 Jacket and ours:
•Aniline-dyed, vegetable-tanned capeskin outer shell in the original chestnut shade of brown
• Custom-made, all-cotton sateen for the lining that has been dye matched exactly to the original A-1
• Custom-made, genuine-horn buttons in the correct tortoise-shell, amber-hued shade and made to the exact shape and size of those found on the original example
• Custom-made, genuine-horn backing buttons, produced in the exact shape and size of those found on the original example
• Custom-made, woven spec. and size labels produced on a vintage shuttle loom to the exact size and font face as found on the original A-1
When you examine the detailed comparison photos found on the respective link on this web site, you will be able to see all of these details in close-up, side by side comparison with an original A-1 Jacket. Your first impression may be that the color of our A-1 is markedly darker than the original we show for comparison; this is only because the original has become very faded and scuffed over time. We have taken color matches from areas on the jacket where the original color is still perfectly preserved; in fact, if you look closely at the shots illustrating the pocket, you will see some of the true color where the flap is lifted up. The original A-1 would have looked the same as our copy when it was new; only use and age have rendered it as it appears today.
Sizes available: 36-48 regular. Long and extra-long fittings available at no additional cost on custom order only. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Imported from England
USAC A-1 Capeskin Flying Jacket
SIZING TIPS
About this Style: This jacket style is one of the easier-wearing designs, due largely to the soft drape and light weight of the capeskin leather, providing a perception almost as if wearing nothing more than a chamois shirt or cardigan. While the design is trim in nature, most body types can be accommodated in this style without major issues, though it just may take some work to establish the correct size for a select number of customers.
Tip 1: Follow the instructions entitled “How to Use Product Measures to Obtain a Good Fit” listed under the PRODUCT MEASUREMENTS tab for this product. After finding no substantive conflicts with your body measures obtained from the tab entitled BODY MEASURING, order this garment with no less than 4”of room in excess of your chest measure if you prefer a trim fit throughout, thus if you have a 40” chest circumference measure, order size 40. If a roomier or longer fit is desired, then order the next available size after reviewing all relative measures that pertain to that size. Those whose chest measure falls on an odd number, such as 41” or 43”, will have to determine if they want less room or more room when selecting a jacket size.
Tip 2: Please note that your chest circumference measure is not necessarily the labeled size you wear in another jacket you may own from a different maker or even the same maker, so please take the time to obtain your true chest circumference measure so as to compare to our chart of jacket measures; this will enable us to perform a better job getting you the right size and minimize your chances in having to deal with the hassle and cost of exchanges.
Please ask us for fitting advice if in doubt.
Tip 3: Individuals who prefer looser fits and/or those with a waist measure that is nearly equal to or greater than their chest circumference measure may jump up one - two sizes in this jacket for comfort and desired fit (when we refer to waist measure we do not mean your trouser size; we mean the actual circumference measure of your waistline at its widest point). If you are unsure of the size to order we will assist you; please contact us with the following information: Height, waist circumference measure, chest circumference measure, body weight, and type of clothing to be worn beneath the jacket most of the time, as well as the type of fit you prefer: Trim, roomy or oversized.
USAC A-1 Capeskin Flying Jacket
PRODUCT MEASUREMENTS
The following table provides actual product measures. These measures are provided as an aid because, in conjunction with the information found under the SIZING TIPS tab for each product, they can sometimes be very useful when comparing the measurements from this garment to the measures of your body; however, acting as an armchair tailor should be done with caution, as well as with knowledge of other important areas of fit that are not displayed here. Armchair tailors frequently fail to take into account other significant elements that impact fit; following the information found under the SIZING TIPS tab for each garment on this web site is strongly suggested, which can be very useful in supplanting or supplementing the listed measures below.
Our measures were derived from averaging measurements taken from many garments of the same size from each specific size in the range of any given product, thus the measures provided are representative for each size but they may not be exactly what you will receive. Some fluctuation in size is normal and to be expected, especially in these garments that have been manufactured on the bench by hand. Size fluctuations are rarely encountered in the width measures and more typically encountered in length measures, and particularly with respect to leather jackets and jackets with knit cuffs and waistbands. Fluctuations in width measures are very rare, and when they are encountered they are typically insignificant: 1/8” – ¼”. Normal fluctuations in sleeve and/or body length + /- a ½” are more common but still rare, and such fluctuations in that increment range are within spec. for jackets of the same size and style.
Long and Extra Long fittings are available upon custom order and aren’t returnable unless faulty. A Long fitting adds 1” to both the arm and body lengths listed in the measures provided, while an Extra-Long fitting adds 1 ½” to both of these areas of measure. Delivery times are greatly extended for custom orders. Please contact us to place an order for a Long or Extra-Long fitting.
Size | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 | 46 | 48 |
Chest width | 20" | 21" | 22" | 23" | 24" | 25" | 26" |
Shoulder width | 16.75" | 17.5" | 18" | 19" | 19.5" | 20" | 20.5" |
Arm length | 24" | 24.5" | 25" | 25.5" | 26" | 26.5" | 27" |
Back length | 24" | 24.5" | 25" | 25.5" | 26" | 26.5" | 27" |
How to Use Product Measures to Obtain a Good Fit:
1) Using the measurements listed for this product and information found under the tab entitled MEASURING GARMENTS to understand our measuring technique, please double the chest measure to obtain the total external chest circumference of this garment. For example: If the chest measure listed for size 40 is 22”, doubling this measure yields a 44” external chest circumference.
2) Measure your chest circumference as per the tab on this web site specifically addressing BODY MEASURING, then compare your chest measure to the chest measure of this product.
3) Many jackets are cut in such a way that the wearer requires no less than 3” of room in the jacket for a sleek fit that is also comfortable, while other jacket styles require the wearer to have more than 6” of room. If your chest circumference is 40”, a product with a 22” chest width has a 44” external chest circumference and would provide 4” of external room in this scenario (chest measures 40”, external chest measure of jacket is 44”, thus 4” of external room would be realized).
4) Again, using the measurements listed for this product and information under the MEASURING GARMENTS tab to understand our measuring technique, add half of the shoulder width to the arm length. For example: If the shoulder width is 18.5” and the arm length is 24”, adding 9.25” (half the shoulder width) to 24” (the arm length) will yield an overall sleeve length of 33.25” in this product.
5) Measure your overall sleeve length following the instructions on this web site under the tab specifically addressing BODY MEASURING, then compare your overall sleeve length to this product.
6) If desired, repeat the measuring comparisons for back length.
7) Compare your body measures to the listed garment measures and follow the advice found under the SIZING TIPS tab to obtain a good fit.
IMPORTANT: Because you need room in a garment for comfort, garments with a 44” chest circumference are NOT a size 44, nor are they intended for anyone with a 44” chest circumference. Tee shirts and thermal shirts tend to have the most body-hugging fits of our product offerings because these were originally intended to be undergarments, thus these can be ordered to stretch to fit if that is how you wish to wear such garments. Other shirts, sweatshirts, sweaters, jackets, etc. will all have some amount of room incorporated in their designs, thus these will all measure larger than your actual chest measure by varying degrees.
Sometimes-Problematic Way to Determine a Good Fit:
Due to differences in how even near-identical garments are cut by different manufacturers, it is not necessarily a good idea to compare the listed measures of this product to the measures of an existing, similar product in your wardrobe to determine the correct size to order in this product. Though such comparisons can indeed work some of the time, and maybe even most of the time, vast experience with and knowledge of the products we market has proven such practices will sometimes fail. This inaccurate measuring methodology doesn't factor in other key variables of fit relative to you and the garment that includes: Armhole opening, shoulder slope, high-point shoulder, high chest, width of sleeves at all points including the all-important elbow, waist measure, and the thickness, plumpness, and rigidity of the material the garment is made from, naming just some variables influencing fit that do not appear on any list of measurements for a garment or that a customer is likely to account for.
It is best to compare your actual body measures to the listed measures of this product AND follow our advice listed under the SIZING TIPS tab specific to this product to obtain a good fit in this style.
A Good Fit:
This is highly subjective - what one person may think is too big, another may think fits perfectly. Some garments are cut quite generously and others are cut quite trimly. If comparing measurements of one of our products to another you may own, some individuals will surely find that none or maybe only one area of measure is commonly shared or remotely close to being the same. Ultimately, chest measure is the most important area to properly fit, then all other areas of measure will have to fall into place. And some individuals who are extremely tall may find that body and/or sleeve length are more important to accommodate than even chest measure.
It is best to compare your actual body measures to the listed measures of this product AND follow our advice listed under the SIZING TIPS tab specific to this product to obtain a good fit in this style.
Please understand that no jacket can be two jackets in one (you may have to make a compromise in fit somewhere). The best look is achieved wearing a shirt and undershirt, or a medium-weight sweater with undershirt; the goal being a trim, sleek look. If the application of our jackets is with multiple layers of clothing, then the original look will be compromised; when purchased oversized, please keep in mind that the jacket will fit NOT trimly but LOOSELY when fewer clothes are worn.
As a rule here, if the jacket squares up nicely on the shoulders when worn with the sort of clothing you will wear most of the time, falls about 1 1/2" below the top of your trousers (if a waist-length jacket), allows you to reach into trouser pockets and recover keys, wallet and change without discomfort or pain, as well as allow normal strides while walking, then this is very likely a good fit and how the jacket would have been worn when originally issued.
Using the good-fit test where one draws their arms across their chest as a barometer for snugness will almost certainly produce some binding in an A-2 jacket of the correct size, and thus push you further up the sizing scale into a very large A-2 jacket. A true 1940s A-2 jacket has no bi-swing action back (as found on the USN M-422A or G-1 jackets, USAAF B-6, Tanker jacket, etc.) and is not cut for such a great range of movement as experienced when doing the arm-crossing act. If you can get that sort of movement range without binding in one of our A-2s, then it will surely be rather loose and sloppy when you aren't drawing your arms across your chest in front of you.
What makes more sense, having a jacket that looks great and feels fine during 90% of your activities, or only when you cross your arms in front of you? Do you walk around with your arms crossed in front of you? The choice is yours and we will gladly oblige all tastes, but do try to get the look originally intended.