Buzz Rickson U. S. Navy Aviation Ground Crew Winter Jacket, Alpaca Lined
Last Few Left!!!
The U. S. Navy developed a zippered deck jacket exclusively for cold-weather use among aviation ground crews in 1941. The style was very similar in outward appearance to the wool-lined version for use by all personnel, but the fit, measures, and other features belie any comparisons of similarity. This version for ground crews was lined with a 50-50 blend of alpaca-and-wool pile and the patch pockets were different in design, being more D-shaped, and the fit, especially in the arms and armholes was much more narrow. Also, unlike the similar-looking standard-issue zippered deck jacket that was produced in the millions, every example of the ground-crew version we have ever seen contains a label denoting production by the Naval Aircraft Factory (N. A. F.), which strongly supports our belief that the version for ground crews was made exclusively by the Naval Aircraft Factory and not produced by any civilian contractors: N. A. F production would correspond with significantly smaller production numbers and be consistent with the smaller number of personnel serving in aviation vs. the entirety of the U. S. Navy.
This jacket style for ground crews, along with the general-issue deck jackets, received a "U. S. NAVY" stencil in silver-gray lettering across the upper back in 1942, but the early-production jackets had no such stencil and this Buzz Rickson's version has been made EXCLUSIVELY for us with an unmarked, plain back panel, which is 100% authentic for jackets produced prior to spring 1942. All of these deck jackets utilize the same period-correct, heavyweight, corded-cotton fabric found on the Buzz Rickson heavyweight N-1 jacket. Though the zippered deck jacket for general issue was superseded in 1943 by a hook-front version, this alpaca-lined version for ground crews did not experience any significant design changes, though the color was changed from dark blue to Olive Drab 3, commonly but erroneously called khaki, beginning with productions in early 1944.
Buzz Rickson’s philosophy is always to reproduce an item as authentically as humanly possible, which means utilizing the original machinery of the era and making the item so it doesn’t just look the part, but producing the item so it can actually function in the same way the original item was intended, thus Buzz Rickson’s is never engaged in making costumes; they are engaged in recreating rugged, functional history: heavy, military bar tacks are sewn at every key stress points specified and found on the original jackets, thus pocket corners and the storm flap are constructed to function and endure in the same adverse, challenging conditions of combat as the jackets that won WWII.
Please take note of all of these historically accurate features found on this Buzz Rickson’s masterpiece copy of the Alpaca-Lined, Navy Aviation Ground Crew Winter Jacket:
- Exact copy of an original Naval Aircraft Factory (N. A. F.) label design woven on vintage shuttle looms, not modern, projectile looms
- Custom manufacturing of the correct, heavyweight, corded-cotton outer shell to precisely match USN specs. and correctly dyed in navy blue
- Cotton-thread construction
- Custom manufacturing of the correct double-faced, brown-and-grey hued alpaca fur-and-wool lining to precisely match 1940's USN specs, which is the same heavyweight pile found on the Buzz Rickson Heavyweight N-1 Khaki Deck Jacket. We cannot say too much good about the use of the original, double-faced alpaca, which is what provides the warmth associated with the vintage jackets and requires vintage machinery found in Japan; at best, single-faced alpaca is present on cheaper look-alike costume-grade jackets and Buzz Rickson's does not make costumes.
- Two external “D-style” hand-warmer patch pockets
- Precise copy of a wartime, nickel-plated Talon zipper on correct, all-cotton HBT tape, not incorrect poly-cotton
- Heavyweight, corded-cotton exterior, exactly as per the original design
- Sewn bar tacks on all major stress points as per the original specs., including pocket corners and placket front
- Large wind flap protector located behind zipper closure to keep cold air gusts out
- Custom manufacturing of the correct, two-ply 100% worsted-wool knit cuffs, collar and waist band
Sizes available: 36-44 Regular in even-numbered sizes. Please see our SIZING TIPS for advice on how to get the correct fit.
Buzz Rickson’s goods are imported from Japan
Buzz Rickson U. S. Navy Aviation Ground Crew Winter Jacket, Alpaca Lined
SIZING TIPS
About this Style: This style provides excellent warmth that is parallel in insulation in the body and sleeves with our Buzz Rickson heavyweight USN Deck Jackets.
Although the outward appearance of this style could lead to conclusions that it is the same jacket as the zip-front or even hook-front WWII USN winter jackets, but with an alpaca lining, such conclusions would be erroneous, as this is really a totally different design with different fit characteristics and body measurements. Additionally, when reviewing the chest measures for this style listed on this website, please keep in mind that these are EXTERNAL measures and do not take into account the lesser amount of room on the inside of the jacket and its armholes, due to the thick, pile lining:
This design has narrower arm diameters and higher armholes than the aforementioned styles and the N-1 style of USN jackets, plus this style is replete with a thick alpaca-and-wool lining that includes the armholes, unlike the N-1 jacket design, thus this style provides for a different fit and feel vs. the aforementioned styles. Almost all customers prefer to wear this jacket style in a size equal to their chest measures, thus an individual with a chest circumference of 40” is inclined to prefer the size 40, whereby 8" of room would be achieved in the fit and comfort and freedom of movement would be achieved. Maintaining at least 7" - 8" of room between the wearer's chest measure and the jacket's chest measure should provide for comfort and freedom of movement without a bulky sensation in the armholes that would otherwise be present if one elected to size down and seek to maintain 6" of room in this design. If any layering is desired, this will further add to the bulkiness in the armholes and subtract from INTERNAL room in this design, so sizing down in an effort to maintain only 6" of room in this design is simply not suggested.
Tip 1: Follow the instructions entitled “How to Use Product Measures to Obtain a Good Fit” listed under the PRODUCT MEASUREMENTS tab for this product. After finding no substantive conflicts with your body measures obtained from the tab entitled BODY MEASURING, order this garment with no less than 7” - 8" of EXTERNAL room in excess of your chest measure if you prefer a comfortable fit. If a roomier or longer fit is desired, then order the next available size after reviewing all relative measures that pertain to that size. A comfortable fit is achieved for most customers by ordering a size that is equal to their chest measure: Chest measures 40”, order size 40, which will provide 8" of EXTERNAL room between the wearer's chest and the jacket and should not produce undue bulkiness in the armholes. Those whose chest measure falls on an odd number, such as 41” or 43”, will have to determine if they want less room or more room when selecting a jacket size.
Tip 2: Please note that your chest circumference measure is not necessarily the labeled size you wear in another jacket you may own from a different maker or even the same maker, so please take the time to obtain your true chest circumference measure so as to compare to our chart of jacket measures; this will enable us to perform a better job getting you the right size and minimize your chances in having to deal with the hassle and cost of exchanges.
Please ask us for fitting advice if in doubt.
Tip 3: Individuals who prefer looser fits and/or those with a waist measure that is nearly equal to or greater than their chest circumference measure may jump up one size in this jacket for comfort and desired fit (when we refer to waist measure we do not mean your trouser size; we mean the actual circumference measure of your waistline at its widest point). If you are unsure of the size to order we will assist you; please contact us with the following information: Height, waist circumference measure, chest circumference measure, body weight, and type of clothing to be worn beneath the jacket most of the time, as well as the type of fit you prefer: Trim, roomy or oversized.
Buzz Rickson U. S. Navy Aviation Ground Crew Winter Jacket, Alpaca Lined
PRODUCT MEASUREMENTS
The following table provides actual product measures. These measures are provided as an aid because, in conjunction with the information found under the SIZING TIPS tab for each product, they can sometimes be very useful when comparing the measurements from this garment to the measures of your body; however, acting as an armchair tailor should be done with caution, as well as with knowledge of other important areas of fit that are not displayed here. Armchair tailors frequently fail to take into account other significant elements that impact fit; following the information found under the SIZING TIPS tab for each garment on this web site is strongly suggested, which can be very useful in supplanting or supplementing the listed measures below.
Our measures were derived from averaging measurements taken from many garments of the same size from each specific size in the range of any given product, thus the measures provided are representative for each size but they may not be exactly what you will receive. Some fluctuation in size is normal and to be expected, especially in these garments that have been manufactured on the bench by hand. Size fluctuations are rarely encountered in the width measures and more typically encountered in length measures, and particularly with respect to leather jackets and jackets with knit cuffs and waistbands. Fluctuations in width measures are very rare, and when they are encountered, are typically insignificant: 1/8” – ¼”. Normal fluctuations of measure in sleeve and/or body length + /- a ½” is more common but still rare, and such fluctuations in that increment range are within spec. for jackets of the same size and style.
| Size | 36 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 44 |
| Chest width | 22" | 23" | 24" | 25" | 26" |
| Shoulder width | 18" | 18" | 19" | 19.5" | 20" |
| Arm length | 25.5" | 25.5" | 26" | 27" | 28" |
| Back length | 27" | 25.5" | 26" | 27" | 27.5" |
How to Use the Product Measures to Obtain a Good Fit:
1) Using the measurements listed for this product and information found under the tab entitled MEASURING GARMENTS to understand our measuring technique, please double the chest measure to obtain the total external chest circumference of this garment. For example: If the chest measure listed for size 40 is 24”, doubling this measure yields a 48” external chest circumference.
2) Measure your chest circumference as per the tab on this web site specifically addressing BODY MEASURING, then compare your chest measure to the chest measure of this product.
3) Many jackets are cut in such a way that the wearer requires no less than 4” of room in the jacket for a sleek fit that is also comfortable, while other jacket styles require the wearer to have more than 8” of room. If your chest circumference is 40”, a product with a 24” chest width has a 48” external chest circumference and would provide 8” of external room in this scenario (chest measures 40”, external chest measure of jacket is 48”, thus 8” of external room would be realized).
4) Again, using the measurements listed for this product and information under the MEASURING GARMENTS tab to understand our measuring technique, add half of the shoulder width to the arm length. For example: If the shoulder width is 20” and the arm length is 26”, adding 10” (half the shoulder width) to 26” (the arm length) will yield an overall sleeve length of 36” in this product.
5) Measure your overall sleeve length following the instructions on this web site under the tab specifically addressing BODY MEASURING, then compare your overall sleeve length to this product.
6) If desired, repeat the measuring comparisons for back length.
7) Compare your body measures to the listed garment measures and follow the advice found under the SIZING TIPS tab to obtain a good fit.
IMPORTANT: Because you need room in a garment for comfort, garments with a 44” chest circumference are NOT a size 44, nor are they intended for anyone with a 44” chest circumference. Tee shirts and thermal shirts tend to have the most body-hugging fits of our product offerings because these were originally intended to be undergarments, thus these can be ordered to stretch to fit if that is how you wish to wear such garments. Other shirts, sweatshirts, sweaters, jackets, etc. will all have some amount of room incorporated in their designs, thus these will all measure larger than your actual chest measure by varying degrees.
Sometimes-Problematic Way to Determine a Good Fit:
Due to differences in how even near-identical garments are cut by different manufacturers, it is not necessarily a good idea to compare the listed measures of this product to the measures of an existing, similar product in your wardrobe to determine the correct size to order in this product. Though such comparisons can indeed work some of the time, and maybe even most of the time, vast experience with and knowledge of the products we market has proven such practices will sometimes fail. This inaccurate measuring methodology doesn't factor in other key variables of fit relative to you and the garment that includes: Armhole opening, shoulder slope, high-point shoulder, high chest, width of sleeves at all points including the all-important elbow, waist measure, and the thickness, plumpness, and rigidity of the material the garment is made from, naming just some variables influencing fit that do not appear on any list of measurements for a garment or that a customer is likely to account for.
It is best to compare your actual body measures to the listed measures of this product AND follow our advice listed under the SIZING TIPS tab specific to this product to obtain a good fit in this style.
A Good Fit:
This is highly subjective - what one person may think is too big, another may think fits perfectly. Some garments are cut quite generously and others are cut quite trimly. If comparing measurements of one of our products to another you may own, some individuals will surely find that none or maybe only one area of measure is commonly shared or remotely close to being the same. Ultimately, chest measure is the most important area to properly fit, then all other areas of measure will have to fall into place. And some individuals who are extremely tall may find that body and/or sleeve length are more important to accommodate than even chest measure.
It is best to compare your actual body measures to the listed measures of this product AND follow our advice listed under the SIZING TIPS tab specific to this product to obtain a good fit in this style.
We strive to create a crisp fit between our products and the customer, and not a loose, sloppy look. If you prefer your clothing to fit more loosely, then we will do our best to work with you to that end, though, by the very nature of our product designs and fits it may not be possible to duplicate the slack looks found in many mainstream clothing brands even if you go up one or two sizes in our products.
